Ptrhahn's Silver 93 Track/Street Build
#106
Sponsor
iTrader: (41)
Thanks for the credit everyone. The motor was built the same way I build every motor: as if it was going in my own car. No shortcuts are ever taken. Aside from my porting, Peter chose to have the rotors lightened and the entire rotating assembly race balanced. This will certainly make a difference on the track. Our in house tuner John Renna, is a wizard behind the computer. Not only does he make nice power, but safety and driveability are always made priority. Looking forward to seeing the car on the track.
#107
Food for thought. I see Boost Resource is making it's own 8374 turbine housing to mate up to your EVO. This might be something to consider, along with cast manifolds. A rotary-specific turbine housing with bigger/optimized wastegate runners. Heck, you could even do a bigger A/R in the process.
Boost Resource EFR Bolt-on Turbo Mitsubishi EVO X 2008+ | Boost Resource
For now though, I'm done. Going to drive it like it is for a while.
Boost Resource EFR Bolt-on Turbo Mitsubishi EVO X 2008+ | Boost Resource
For now though, I'm done. Going to drive it like it is for a while.
#108
So, the last piece of the puzzle was to do something about fuel starvation. I'd planned to install the TNT fuel starve eliminator internal surge tank.
However, when I opened the tank, look how clogged the sock filter is. Still more fuel cell foam crap from when the geniuses at Speed1 put the stuff in my tank.
SO, the brand new '97 tank ( that I'd hoped to resell) will have to go in. Sucks.
Side note, check out the nice stainless Allen head bolts Ihor and the guys used to install the fuel hanger. Nice touch.
However, when I opened the tank, look how clogged the sock filter is. Still more fuel cell foam crap from when the geniuses at Speed1 put the stuff in my tank.
SO, the brand new '97 tank ( that I'd hoped to resell) will have to go in. Sucks.
Side note, check out the nice stainless Allen head bolts Ihor and the guys used to install the fuel hanger. Nice touch.
#112
New tank was $600+ and took over six weeks to get here from Japan. There aren't an in the US. I've confirmed the TNT will work with the new tank, and ordered a new sock in case I just want to go with a conventional set up.
I'm trying to remove the metal cover on the new tank so either the TNT or the Hyperion cover can go in. I thought it would be a simple matter of bending the four tabs back straight, but it doesn't seem to want to come out, and I'm baffled (sorry for the pun) at why.
Anyone ever remove this?
I'm trying to remove the metal cover on the new tank so either the TNT or the Hyperion cover can go in. I thought it would be a simple matter of bending the four tabs back straight, but it doesn't seem to want to come out, and I'm baffled (sorry for the pun) at why.
Anyone ever remove this?
Last edited by ptrhahn; 04-03-17 at 07:41 AM.
#114
Thanks, yup, I've bent all four down, but it really seemed still stuck, so much so that I figured there was some other fastening mechanism I couldn't see. It wiggles, but won't come up. I just don't want to break the plastic slots off.
EDIT: I got it off with a little jimmying with a screwdriver... nothing broken. The surge tank will be SO, SO much easier to install with a clean tank out of the car. Wow.
I'm going to run it with check valve to start, but the plan is to wire a separate Walbro 255 to feed it instead of the return line. I figured a Walbro at 12v and 0psi line pressure should flow about the same as an 044 at 13.5v, 43.5 psi, and only draw about 4-6 amps. As you can see on my fuel cover, I have an aftermarket EFI plug for the 044, but still have the factory plug unused, that I can wire in a second pump.
Last edited by ptrhahn; 04-03-17 at 10:13 AM.
#115
So, I got around to installing the new 97+ fuel tank. Initially I put in the TNT surge tank, and a new check valve on the 044. While it's a nice setup, when I jumped the fuel pump it was slow to build pressure and about 3-4 psi lower.
So, not wanting to readjust, trouble shoot, or mess around, I decided to go back to the Hyperion fuel cover and no check valve. Combined with the new tank, it should be pretty solid.
Had the car out this morning and it absolutely rips. 2nd gear just breaks loose after about 4K, even in warm weather on 275 Pilot Super Sports. Might need to run Sport Cups on the street.
So, not wanting to readjust, trouble shoot, or mess around, I decided to go back to the Hyperion fuel cover and no check valve. Combined with the new tank, it should be pretty solid.
Had the car out this morning and it absolutely rips. 2nd gear just breaks loose after about 4K, even in warm weather on 275 Pilot Super Sports. Might need to run Sport Cups on the street.
#116
Sponsor
iTrader: (41)
So, I got around to installing the new 97+ fuel tank. Initially I put in the TNT surge tank, and a new check valve on the 044. While it's a nice setup, when I jumped the fuel pump it was slow to build pressure and about 3-4 psi lower.
So, not wanting to readjust, trouble shoot, or mess around, I decided to go back to the Hyperion fuel cover and no check valve. Combined with the new tank, it should be pretty solid.
Had the car out this morning and it absolutely rips. 2nd gear just breaks loose after about 4K, even in warm weather on 275 Pilot Super Sports. Might need to run Sport Cups on the street.
So, not wanting to readjust, trouble shoot, or mess around, I decided to go back to the Hyperion fuel cover and no check valve. Combined with the new tank, it should be pretty solid.
Had the car out this morning and it absolutely rips. 2nd gear just breaks loose after about 4K, even in warm weather on 275 Pilot Super Sports. Might need to run Sport Cups on the street.
#117
Thanks Ihor. Yup, it rocks.
Something about this tank just made me nervous. It's a tight install with lots of bends in the in tank lines so it bothered me that the pressure was lower (even if I could adjust it) because it's obviously more restrictive, and especially because it built pressure slowly.
I tried it again with just the socked pump, and it went straight to 43.5.
Maybe with more time to trouble shoot it, or set it up with a second feed pump it'll be great but for right now with a track day coming up Friday, I decided not to screw around. I'll just keep the tank about 1/4
Something about this tank just made me nervous. It's a tight install with lots of bends in the in tank lines so it bothered me that the pressure was lower (even if I could adjust it) because it's obviously more restrictive, and especially because it built pressure slowly.
I tried it again with just the socked pump, and it went straight to 43.5.
Maybe with more time to trouble shoot it, or set it up with a second feed pump it'll be great but for right now with a track day coming up Friday, I decided not to screw around. I'll just keep the tank about 1/4
#118
Mazzei Formula
iTrader: (6)
UPDATE: With break in successfully completed, I headed back up to IRP for dyno tuning. I of course picked a day when it snowed 3", so the car was COVERED with grey sludge kicked up by my truck on the way over. What's new at this stage?
1. IRP Stage 3 ported motor, lightened/balanced rotating assembly and RxParts.com seals
2. New LMS Harness to replace Rywire
The car layed down 440 horswpower, and over 400 (401) ft-lbs of torque at about 16 psi. Those are Mustang dyno numbers. The lower (13.5-14) setting yielded 420/350, which is fantastic in itself, but look at that big jump in torque at higher boost. This was all on pump gas with 1:1 premix. Thank god on the latter... it was revealed after that one of my OMP jets went bad, and puked a little oil out of the tiny filter I installed to show when these go bad! No damage, so I'll get them swapped out this week.
As I noted to Elliot, the combo of port/tune seems to have restored some of the spool lost with the ported turbine housing. We took it for a very short road test (it was too nasty out to really drive it), and 4th gear tests showed 15psi by 2850 rpm or so.
I can't wait to A. Clean the thing, it's filthy, and B. take it out for some driving in halfway decent weather. Big thanks again to Ihor at IRP for sorting out the wrongs done to this car by, ahem, other shops.
https://youtu.be/O9r-p_xn8Ic
1. IRP Stage 3 ported motor, lightened/balanced rotating assembly and RxParts.com seals
2. New LMS Harness to replace Rywire
The car layed down 440 horswpower, and over 400 (401) ft-lbs of torque at about 16 psi. Those are Mustang dyno numbers. The lower (13.5-14) setting yielded 420/350, which is fantastic in itself, but look at that big jump in torque at higher boost. This was all on pump gas with 1:1 premix. Thank god on the latter... it was revealed after that one of my OMP jets went bad, and puked a little oil out of the tiny filter I installed to show when these go bad! No damage, so I'll get them swapped out this week.
As I noted to Elliot, the combo of port/tune seems to have restored some of the spool lost with the ported turbine housing. We took it for a very short road test (it was too nasty out to really drive it), and 4th gear tests showed 15psi by 2850 rpm or so.
I can't wait to A. Clean the thing, it's filthy, and B. take it out for some driving in halfway decent weather. Big thanks again to Ihor at IRP for sorting out the wrongs done to this car by, ahem, other shops.
https://youtu.be/O9r-p_xn8Ic
congrats to you and Ihor, those are awesome numbers