Says they are only intended for fluid (clutch/brake), vs. nitrogen pressure, but I guess its worth a try.

 

there’s only shock oil in the line, the nitrogen is kept separated from the oil by a an O-ringed divider piston inside the remote canister.
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The last two pictures here <REAR COILOVER> show the plates from the wheel well looking up. That said, I violently agree with Peter that Staubli quick disconnects would be well worth money to reduce the size of the hole in the chassis, reduce the ***-pain of servicing the shocks, and most importantly, the improvement of the overall install.

 

Much appreciated, Carlos, Peter, and Team.

Perhaps I could make use of some type of -3 bulkhead fitting that could be affixed by jam nut(s) on the additional fitting that goes through the rear wheel well and into the trunk. Increased complexity, but also the potential to yield a more visually appealing (and easier to work with in the future) finished product.

 

Minor updates:

I've been shopping for new street wheels that would allow a wider rear tire in particular, maybe a 18's or 19's with an 11' rear with a 295/30. The tougher part actually is the front, and one set I had my eye on come in a 10" +40. I tried that out with one of my 18x10 +50's, with two 5mm spacers. I don't think it's going to work, at least not with a 285/30 front tire. That's awfully aggressive.






I also decided to source some better, more transluecent bottles for pre-mix, because with the black Klotz Techniplate bottles, damnit if I can ever tell how much is being dispensed, even if I hold it up to the light. These were cheap, do the trick, and I even put my rotary alien sticker on 'em.



Finally, I found these stick-on alcantara pads on Alibaba, in appropriate charcoal color the rest of my interior is done in, and turns out they fit nicely on the pocket (which I never use anyway). I sit so low in the car that my elbows always rest on the pocket and the ashtray, and this provides a much nicer surface. I'm looking at getting the JDM cubby for the ashtray hole, and recovering it in the same material.

 

Do you not care for the new mazda comp wheels in 18x10+50? Or, looking for a different offset?

 

I want an 11" rear, but also I think I recall seeing them and they weren't a style I'm looking for.

 

i think its time to widen the body a little bit Peter!
do you have tire size restrictions on the events you participate ?

 

Haha, I'd LOVE to do a widebody, but I can't bring myself to cut the car. No restrictions, but I want to maybe replace my street wheels, but not my two sets of track wheels to fit a wide body. I may just be stuck with wheels that can be ordered with custom offsets.

 

well before i **** off the purists, i do enjoy the widebody especially since everything is blended in, nothing sticks out like a sore thumb. I am not going to say that it was perfect and there's things that should be redone but i do enjoy it and if it wasnt for the tire restrictions i would have gone maybe a little wider. That feed GT3 looks sick.
At the end of the day you can get wider front fenders and roll the quarter panels but not enough to "ruin" the car?

 

I was limited to 265/35-18 up front on my +38 offset wheels (same as you found).

Try 1 5mm spacer on your 18x10 +50s for +45 offset up front.

I run18x11 +45 up front (and rear) and have so far run up to 305/30-18s.

My 1st set of 18x11 +45 were custom offset Forgestars as you say.

But Volk started making the TE37 in 18x11 +45, so I picked up a set of those.

 

Yup, I can always go with a custom offset wheel. I was looking at Apex VS-5RS, which come in 18x9.5" +40, 18x10" +40, and 18x11" +52.

For a street setup, I don't need square (i.e. a huge front tire), but was thinking 285/30 and 295/30, or 255/35 and 295/30. I do not want a scenario in which the sidewall of the front tire is taller than the rear, but I also don't want the front too much narrower.

This had led me to look at 19" (the Apex are available in the same widths/offsets in 19". a 255 or 265/30 front is still a reasonable diameter, and could be paired with a 295/30 rear. I do not mind the taller overall height in the rear, I run a 275/35/18 now, and the rear wells are much bigger to the extent that, to me, a 285/30/18 looks too short back there. I got ahold of a free 295/30/19 continental, and it looks pretty good set into the well, and is actually shorter (unmounted), than my current rear despite the specs. Yes, that's a 19" tire, supposedly 26" in diameter, next to a 275/35/18, supposedly 25.7" diameter.

 

I do declare … it’s not like you didn’t participate in every beat up, down, and all around dead horse wheel width fitment thread on this forum already
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https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-w...tires-1108287/

https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-w...ide-fd-892901/

https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-w...sizing-416251/

https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-w...itment-895289/
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I dont know what style wheel you prefer, but Enkei offers the-

18x10.5 +45 GTC02 which would work well with 285/30-18 or 295/30-18 up front.

 

yeah, herblenny and a few others had the old 18x10.5 +43 SSR Comp wheels, the Type C were around 17 lbs each, but the Comp H were about 20 lbs.

what’s the weight on the Volk TE37s?
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I'm very particular about wheels. Especially the streets. I'm 100% set with track wheels, I got too good a deal on my two sets of CCW C14s. The RGRs wre perfect when I got them, but I'm looking for something a little wider and more aggressive looking, in character with where the car has gone.

If I could have anything, it would probably be BBS F1-R in diamond black if they came in the right sizes, or simply wider RGR's like I have now. The Apex VS-5RS look great to me, are very light, and come in a similar finish. I've seen lots of others in that simplified mesh VS-5RS/F1-R style that don't look quite right. I've been torn between wheels like that where the spokes go all the way to the edge and are concave, vs. a wheel with a lip like the RGR. The former look visually bigger, but I do like a lip—but not a stepped lip. Not really into multi-piece either. I wouldn't mind a darker gunmetal or silvery-black, but not sure I want actual black for street wheels.

Have I made this complicated enough yet? I need new street tires too, and with all my other plans, the smart play would be to just re-shoe the RGRs with some 200tw goodness in 255/275 like I have now. But, noodling it is part of the fun I guess.

 

Ooof, that is a wheel worthy of being a "dream wheel".

Need 14" AP big brake kit to back up the wheels with with their huge open space in the spokes.

Snowball effect.

I can try to pretend Im a track rat with budget 14" wilwoods peeking out of TE spokes when Im hard parked.

 

Oh I've got big(ger) brakes and an MK60 conversion in the works regardless ;-)

My new "design brief" for this car is, 2600lbs fully wet, with A/C, best suspension and brakes available.

 

I have the Konig Hypergram in 18x11 inch + 40 offset with 315/30-18 Yokohama 052 tires. These are my 200TW set-up for SCCA Solo XA class. Also, I am using 3mm spacers for the rears.

 

If I'm honest, I don't understand how you are using an 11" +40 with a 3mm spacer (effectively +37) in the rear with that large a tire. That should stick out, have you pulled the fender and/or trimmed the lip? Even with a 11" +50 and a 295 you'd need a full roll.

The front looks like you've pulled/cut the fender significantly.

 

Rear fenders has been rolled and pulled.

 

Our autox cars require a bunch of camber since we are safely maxing out our grip on lowspeed corners.

My FD alignment (-2.5 front/-1.4 rear) is more track focused (lower camber) so +45 wheel offset centers the tire.

Each degree of camber on a 25" tall tire is 5.5mm inward at the top of the tire.

So, a dedicated autox FD has more like -5 deg front and -2.5 deg rear camber and the lower +40 offset will center up the tire.

Plus, James2U fenders are rolled to the point you can visually see they are rolled (changed the outer fender profile).

 

I'm at 2.5 degrees or so up front on the pics above, and +45 (one spacer) looked a lot more realistic. I'm definitely not looking to get in to the mode of camber-as-a-fitment-tool though.

 

-5 deg front camber?

maybe you need stiffer springs
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