I have all the Super Now stuff including the pillow ball bushings. They may be an option to consider.

 

^ oooooooh Laaaaaawd that looks expensive!!! but very very nice

 

$?

 

$4k

 

 

I think that the Re Amemeya is $2

 

Thanks for the heads up Chris. Those guys definitely know what they're doing. I believe they're the ones making the custom front upper arms that I've been waiting for.

 

Daaaammmm. Those are NICE!!! Are the OEM pillow ball replacements exact same dimensions as stock ones or do they come with shims? Any link to just those?

Only possible issue I see with ordering these from overseas is the availability and price. So far the suitable Aurora bearings I've see range from $10-$25/ea depending on carbon steel or Stainless.

 

I ordered everything from their catalog, so that is where the price came into play. They also house 'NMB Japan' bearings that are replaceable, which is a huge benefit once purchased.

Super Now Front Lower Caster Bushings
Super Now Front Lower Camber Bushings
Super Now Front Upper Arm Bushings
Super Now Rear Lower Arm Bushings
Super Now Rear Upper Arm Bushings
Super Now Rear Toe Upper Control Arms
Super Now Rear Toe Lower Control Arms
Super Now Front Tie Rod Arms







I just totaled everything and it came to $2k, which is a hell of a lot cheaper that I purchased it when the Dollar to Yen was not as strong. But I also have the sway bar mounts and brackets, dial *****, engine and diff mounts and the pulleys.

 

Pandaz, do you have any more info on the Aurora bearings? i need to replace 4 of my rear pillow ***** (2 were replaced recently) and i would love a cheaper but effective alternative.

 

Usuing NMB bearings is awesome so they're probably easily sourced. I just priced out Super Now front uppers, front lowers, rear uppers and rear lowers for about $1550 plus shipping. Not bad! Now I can sell my Superpro's bushing kit to free up cash AND won't need the custom upper arms anymore (probably around $600) since these look to have offset bearing housings on the lowers for more caster/camber.

Davin, did you happen to write down the NMB bearing numbers? I'm curious to know how much they cost from a bearing vendor.

 

The stock pillow ball is about 1.5" (38.1mm) in diameter so SIB-12 looks to be a good option. Problem is the width though...it's 10mm too short so would need to machine shims AND high misalignment spacers to go on the ball. To be honest, probably not worth all the time and effort now that I learned about the Super Now option with replaceable Japanese bearings.

SIB & SIB-T Alloy Steel Series | QA1

 

No, I did not. The NMB bearings are all the same size that fit into the shims and can easily be sourced for replacements if need be. It's not something I am too worried about when the time comes.

 

FYI J-auto lower control arms clunk... Very poor design the E-clip pushes out... happened to me right away...

 

That sucks man..really wanted a set but heard a couple complaints and I refused to pay 700 for the set up

 

Now that I look back it would of been cheaper and a better setup to get the 3 bushings replaced with solid ones and get the trailing arm from Rx7.com ... live & learn

 

Really? Which joint exactly is this? Hub side?

For now I might still make my own pillow ball set for the rear... I measured the stock pillow ball last night and it's actually 32mm OD and 22.5mm wide so the Aurora bearings should work fine with a 5mm shim. The spacers I'll have my friend machine for me. SIB-12 --> http://cad.aurorabearing.com/viewite...ical-bearings?

 

That sucks to hear, I was going get a set for my fd.

 

The hub part is what popped out when I took the car out for the first time. My car still clunks on turns sounds just like its popped out again but it hasnt dome it a 3rd time after we bent the c clip open further

 

Nice build, but, why did you put an air filter on your oil injectors?

You know those injectors are supposed to let the air go through one way only? And that it doesn't suck air in and that it needs air pressure (like boost as it is connected originaly)?

 

Actually, it does suck in air when the motor is in vacuum... originally it is connected to the primary turbo air inlet for fresh air not boost source which is why I have a filter. As a check valve, the valve is closed under boost for obvious reasons. Out here in California we have tracks out in the desert, spinning out in dirt gets dust everywhere and has clogged up my oil injectors that were open to atmosphere... the valve would get stuck open and spit out oil under boost.

 

What i've been told is that air is forced true the injector to get a better spray and at my fc they are directly conected to the UIM for as long as i can remember.

 

Don't know if FC's are any different but on the FD it only requires fresh air.

 

According to mazdatrix the shot oil injectors are used between 84 and 95, the long ones only from 84 to 92 so i am positive that they work the same on all engines. I got both short and long version in the 13bt

 

You really should search before posting assumptions. I just don't want others in the future reading your comments to be mislead and connect that nipple to a boost source.

Stock FD vacuum diagram, oil injector hose in blue and connected to primary turbo intake elbow for clean air---> http://www.turborx7.com/images/Techn...e_diagram2.jpg

FC training manual for lubrication, see last page ---> http://wright-here.net/files/manuals...n%20System.pdf