The Monsterbox 4 Rotor
? Or are they being replaced anyway?
Thread Starter
Mazzei Formula
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From: Birmingham, Al
Are you talking about the painted suspension nut on shock tower? Ah no big deal, just a nice titanium washer and titanium burned nut as upgrade when those are removed hehe
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Greensboro, North Carolina
Nice dash. I assume you purchased this?
If not, and you built it, we'd love to see some pictures.
Interested to see how well it blends in to the interior of the car.
If not, and you built it, we'd love to see some pictures.
Interested to see how well it blends in to the interior of the car.
Thread Starter
Mazzei Formula
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From: Birmingham, Al
The carbon blank panels purchased, but I cut/installed/layout the pieces and will be wiring/labeling
Unfortunately, I do not have any pics of the construction to share, some things are better kept mystery
Thread Starter
Mazzei Formula
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From: Birmingham, Al
Super crappy photo, but a rough estimate of how it ties in
<br/><br/>Slope on switches is deliberate to match the steering wheel spoke<br/><br/>Thanks!
Thread Starter
Mazzei Formula
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,021
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From: Birmingham, Al
Thread Starter
Mazzei Formula
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,021
Likes: 145
From: Birmingham, Al
Quick Update:
out of country for 2 weeks,
-body guy is finishing up the panels and we'll be test fitting everything for finished body work around April 1st so excited to show!
-finished the trigger wiring to all the buttons on the dash panels, the entire dash setup is all ground triggers to relays. A 6 mini-relay waterproof box in trunk will be triggered, and a haltech relay box with 4 relays for motor up front, and additional 4 relays for headlights and actuators up front tucked under frame rail, solid state relay for water pump etc...
ECU will trigger these relays as well, so the switches are overrides. If ECU is off, so that each system can be independently tested
*If anyone is interested in a dash setup like this, Id be happy to do another. Been getting a ton of requests on facebook, until people realize the wiring involved.
Just a thought:
It ends up being very simple. two or three 8-conductor wires, 22 gauge, so really just 3 wires running up to the panels, plus a ground and a positive. These have 8pin aviation circular disconnects. Its really so simple, saves so much weight compared to oem, and is tremendously more reliable / easier to diagnose.
From here I'm just going to run 10/12/14 gauge wires, from the relays to the respective components. Gauge sizing dependent on distance/voltage drop/amperage
So for example, hit the down switch on the headlight switch, it triggers the lo-beam relay by grounding it, which sends power out from the relay via 10ga wire of color to the headlight, which loops over to the other headlight
I hate wiring with passion, and now I'm starting to flirt with it, its kinda fun
Engine is being assembled by PPRE right now, OS Giken Twin Plate clutch on way. Sent turbo to PPRE for mockup. They will be doing exhaust and intake manifold, downpipe, radiator brackets for my Koyo on their Jig, intercooler piping, throttle body, alternator relocation, and oil pan. Intake manifold is going to be a surprise!!!! Who wants to guess whats crazy about it
out of country for 2 weeks,
-body guy is finishing up the panels and we'll be test fitting everything for finished body work around April 1st so excited to show!
-finished the trigger wiring to all the buttons on the dash panels, the entire dash setup is all ground triggers to relays. A 6 mini-relay waterproof box in trunk will be triggered, and a haltech relay box with 4 relays for motor up front, and additional 4 relays for headlights and actuators up front tucked under frame rail, solid state relay for water pump etc...
ECU will trigger these relays as well, so the switches are overrides. If ECU is off, so that each system can be independently tested
*If anyone is interested in a dash setup like this, Id be happy to do another. Been getting a ton of requests on facebook, until people realize the wiring involved.
Just a thought:
It ends up being very simple. two or three 8-conductor wires, 22 gauge, so really just 3 wires running up to the panels, plus a ground and a positive. These have 8pin aviation circular disconnects. Its really so simple, saves so much weight compared to oem, and is tremendously more reliable / easier to diagnose.
From here I'm just going to run 10/12/14 gauge wires, from the relays to the respective components. Gauge sizing dependent on distance/voltage drop/amperage
So for example, hit the down switch on the headlight switch, it triggers the lo-beam relay by grounding it, which sends power out from the relay via 10ga wire of color to the headlight, which loops over to the other headlight
I hate wiring with passion, and now I'm starting to flirt with it, its kinda fun
Engine is being assembled by PPRE right now, OS Giken Twin Plate clutch on way. Sent turbo to PPRE for mockup. They will be doing exhaust and intake manifold, downpipe, radiator brackets for my Koyo on their Jig, intercooler piping, throttle body, alternator relocation, and oil pan. Intake manifold is going to be a surprise!!!! Who wants to guess whats crazy about it
Last edited by Monsterbox; Mar 16, 2016 at 09:07 PM.
Once again, stupid perfection! The finish on those front shock towers is too nice. You'll crap your pants the first time you accidently drop a wrench in the engine bay 
paint scheme is the same, but there's also a widebody, complete vehicle rewire, haltech, and looks like his cooling and fuel setup is completely different.
Thread Starter
Mazzei Formula
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Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Birmingham, Al
He's right, it does resemble the last build. And people even think its same car. The gauge cluster will be labeled monsterbox 2.0. This is a sequel.
This is intentional. Because, in the vision I see, theres no better combination of colors, body lines, and overall concept than capitalizing on the last build.
Iv contemplated for hours on silver, white, and red. But always come back to black with red interior.
For now on, any monsterbox car will always been black, with red interior. Silver 5 spoke type wheels and red seats. The body will always be as close to mazda lines as possible, with exceptions being for functionality of width.
The dream is an SLC rapier 4 rotor after this car is completed, driven, and sold after a few years. Same concept would in colors/interior would look great in my mind
Sometimes, sticking to what works is better than changing!
Thank you guys for feedback its really great to share back and forth.
This is intentional. Because, in the vision I see, theres no better combination of colors, body lines, and overall concept than capitalizing on the last build.
Iv contemplated for hours on silver, white, and red. But always come back to black with red interior.
For now on, any monsterbox car will always been black, with red interior. Silver 5 spoke type wheels and red seats. The body will always be as close to mazda lines as possible, with exceptions being for functionality of width.
The dream is an SLC rapier 4 rotor after this car is completed, driven, and sold after a few years. Same concept would in colors/interior would look great in my mind
Sometimes, sticking to what works is better than changing!
Thank you guys for feedback its really great to share back and forth.