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That said, doesn't that only help until the engine is heat soaked?
After that point, you either have enough heat rejection for the engine or you don't.
You might want to do the calculations to make sure there's enough BTUs in your system.
The stock 99 bumper might not have enough airflow....
I really think airflow has alot to do with it. Without the fmic is should be huge difference
Airflow really is key. I actually started off with a Toyota Previa Rad (which was even bigger than the supra unit). I removed it because I couldn't find an aluminum 3 row version. Being NA with 100 degree summers, I wanted the most surface area I could put in the front that would fit in between the two frames. The Koyo's are expensive and tiny. Also Valkyrie is right about your bumper. With those smallish openings, 1/2 of your 25 row coolers will be hidden behind the direct airflow. If you run into a problems with oil temps, you will need to move those coolers back towards the tires and build a duct to allow the air to hit the entire core. I run a large opening GTC bumper and may have to do the same thing once I start tracking my car as 75% of my core is also hidden from direct air flow.
I'm just going to go with it and try it as its setup. The 20b car did perfectly fine. Oil temps / water temps were always perfect so long as the car was moving. It was heatsoak in traffic and hill-climbs that caused temps to rise, and this is attributed to lack of airflow to the radiator.
In fact, when the undertray was removed, the car would cool better in traffic, but worse at speed. So this tells me the FMIC was definitely blocking air flow.
Yes, the oil coolers may be blocked by smaller opening in bumper, but I'm thinking to may some fiberglass ducts in the bumper. I will be mounting a fan on one or both, backsides to cool the coolers. I don't know why, but for some reason I really don't think it will be as much of a cooling issue as suspected.
Worst case scenario, a custom radiator can be made 1" thicker to dramatically increase coolant capacity, and a 3rd cooler can be fitted in front of the radiator for the oil. I'll just do this later, meantime is figuring out what problems may pop up getting the engine installed/running first.
Last edited by Monsterbox; Jun 15, 2016 at 09:21 AM.
Examples of stock radiator / koyo / mishimotor etc, and stock fans on some cars that are ran very hard. Hopefully will see how much cooling depends on airflow. Will be nice to see if larger radiator is unnecessary.
Silver6port says his temps never even budge over 176F, he's running the Koyo on his single turbo 20b. It is a v-mount. Compared to my last car, which would hover around 190-205F in traffic and come back down to 176F on interstate
Thinking of throwing in flex fuel sensor, to run E85 on super hot days / events where there's alot of idling / heatsoaking.
Yes you guys have strong points on the 2x power 2x heat.
However, alot depends on how long the car is in boost too. For now, going to start-up and break it in on this radiator and see how she does; if its necessary, going to have a local fab guy make a custom radiator, same dimensions as the koyo, but 1-1.5" thicker overall. There's very limited room, thats the only concern. Need to see the engine in car to check the area to work with.
Broke_Baller, yes these are the RX8 fans from the latest model, 4 wire fans. I've wired them high speed / off. The EWP controller will just trigger them on hi or off. They do appear to blow alot harder and considerably smoother/quieter tone than the FD fans. The rx8 blades/engine swap right into the rx7 shroud
Does anyone know what the wattage rating of the RX8 fans is compared to the stock FD ones?
I got some slimline 8 watt ones I think on my 20b and reckon I am not getting enough cooling.. Could be a couple of things and it has only been on a dyno or running in the garage so far. Just seems to get up to 100degC quicker than I would expect.
Yes you guys have strong points on the 2x power 2x heat.
However, alot depends on how long the car is in boost too.
Yeah, my experience is 2x the power doesn't necessarily mean you can put 2x the power down to the ground so you only need to cool the power you are using.
Usually at high speeds where you are able to hook and put the power down you have lots of air through the heat exchangers.
Conversely-
I noticed on my built FC turbo the oil temps really started to shoot up when I got the suspension and race tires sorted out so I could put the power down on corner exit.
Fans on the oil coolers will really help for this low speed high load corner exit heat- I had no dedicated oil cooler fan.
Yes you guys have strong points on the 2x power 2x heat.
However, alot depends on how long the car is in boost too.
Yeah, my experience is 2x the power doesn't necessarily mean you can put 2x the power down to the ground so you only need to cool the power you are using.
Usually at high speeds where you are able to hook and put the power down you have lots of air through the heat exchangers.
Conversely-
I noticed on my built FC turbo the oil temps really started to shoot up when I got the suspension and race tires sorted out so I could put the power down on corner exit.
Fans on the oil coolers will really help for this low speed high load corner exit heat- I had no dedicated oil cooler fan.
Yes sir def agreed
Most of the time the car will be brappin along on the street, then hit the interstate for a 4th gear pull to 10k while she gets 130mph air through the nose to cooler her down for the repeat
When it finally gets sorted out and I recover enough funds to afford to risk it at the track then upgrading the cooling systems may be in order!
Will def look into oil cooler fans. They are pretty cheap, only hesistant because of all the extra load on the alternator now. May have to go w/ the 160 amp unit to keep up w/ the fans/pumps all over the place lol
It appears that the oil pan is designed such that the front section over the steering rack is flat, without much sump area. Therefore, returning oil from the turbocharger, into the front cover, as we conventionally do, would maybe cause the oil to just back up onto the oil pan plate. So it appears the s4 cover was used as the turbo covers would be unnecessary in this aspect, and the oil will return via the 10an fitting on the rear sump area of the pan, as seen in pic. It does look like a good bit of distance rearward from the CHRA, but the height of turbo should hopefully be enough gravity to return oil adequately.
Last edited by Monsterbox; Jun 25, 2016 at 12:04 PM.
I'm beginning to think about this some more. I don't know how this works I need to get ahold of them and confirm whats going on w/ oil return and front cover.
Looking at the picture again, that 10an fitting is too low for oil to return into the pan. It would need to be at the top of the sumped section. So maybe it is intended to go via the front cover. Just have to wait and see.
its not dry sump, its just made so that it will clear rack in front, and then extra volume spaced added to rear
(looking over this again, it does appear the 10an is the oil return. Even if its at the bottom of the pan, shouldn't make a difference, the level in the pan will just match the level on the actual line above the fitting. And so long as there's more line higher than the level hopefully should be sufficient)
Last edited by Monsterbox; Jun 26, 2016 at 01:02 AM.
I do like the use of o-rings for the intake ports instead of bolted flanges.
It also looks like a FC CAS is mounted. I know that they are reliable but can have a noisy signal. Are you going with that, or a hall effect trigger system, like what FFE sells?
I do like the use of o-rings for the intake ports instead of bolted flanges.
It also looks like a FC CAS is mounted. I know that they are reliable but can have a noisy signal. Are you going with that, or a hall effect trigger system, like what FFE sells?
Thanks man, it may be a little more difficult to get the intake on/off one person, but sure does seem alot cleaner
Yes, FC/20b type CAS. Would rather use this CAS, just because its tried and true. Boost should be pretty low, less than 15psi, so if there's even a tiny bit of scatter shoudn't be too terribly risky. Good thing is the coils are along the frame rail and alternator is side mounted so the shielded wire should be well away from these items that could introduce interference
then upgrading the cooling systems may be in order!
