So I got to see my engines internals today and what a glorious sight it was. My rotors, housings, and plates were all in really good condition. The builder thinks the engine was rebuilt about 40k miles ago. There was a bit of carbon buildup on the rotors but that's normal. The only problem with the engine were the pinched/distorted o rings for the oil. I don't know how it lasted that long with them like that but I'm very glad I brought the engine in for rebuild when I did. If all goes well the engine should be put back together in about three weeks. While the engine is out I'm going to get the bay painted so I have a 100% fresh start. If all goes well it'll be running in 4 weeks.

 

Awwww yeah

 

I'm going to keep this post short and sweet since I've tried this 3 times and screwed up thrice already. Long story short, I cleaned up some parts and removed the air pump mount and power steering pump mount. Thanks to XLR8 for the pulley idea.

 

That pulley looks goods, did you just clean it up and polished it?

 

Yeah I just buffed the crap out of it. I didn't even bother to sand the paint. I just buffed right thru it

 

Thanks, I'm in the process of changing out the bearing, I'll polish it while I'm at it.

 

Pulley looks cool!

 

Thank you Evo.

I made some more progress on the little things this weekend and some today. I nabbed some 0AWG wire for the battery relocation, mounted the OEM aluminum bumper rail to the front bumper to give it a more OEM look and slightly better fitment, and I milled the **** out of my UIM. The rotary works TB had this huge opening and right on the other side was a huge restriction in the UIM so I decided to chop it all out and make the UIM match the ports of the TB. Hope you guys like it and forgive me, it was my first time using this mill.

Here's the bumper bracket. Right now its still in the fitting stages but once it's done I'm going to bead blast it to clean it up.


Fitment so far.


Here's what the battery cable looked like after I crimped the ends on it but before the heat shrink.


And the TB work.

 

Damn man you been busy while the engine is away from home.

 

Yeah I have

I took some time and cleaned up the port work on the UIM. Looks a bit cleaner to me without the jagged edges.

I wonder what kind of power gain it'll have if any with the TB.

 

the work on the throttle body is excellent. Props to you!

 

Thanks Mannykiller. Hopefully it works as well as it looks.

 

You using a rotory works tb?

 

Yes I am.

 

Nice, been thinking about it as well. Wanna do my intake

 

Send it my way along with a case of beer.

 

I got word back from the engine builder on Friday and my engine will be ready for pickup next weekend. This is all fine and dandy but I still need to paint the engine bay first.

While I was waiting for the engine to be rebuilt I did some math and my intercooler setup was starting to look like my weakest link. The rest of my setup seemed to support 450whp but the intercooler should only be good to about 400 so I decided to sell my intercooler setup and koyo. My next setup will be a rotary works v mount with quite a bit of customization.

Wish me luck.

 

So just as a reminder to myself I'm going to make a list of all of the modifications done to the car so far.

Exterior

99 spec front bumper
99 spec lights
99 spec OEM front lip

Suspension/steering

Buddy Club coilovers
Power steering delete
Super pro steering rack bushings
Megan outer tie rod ends

Fuel/ECU

Apexi PFC FD3S4
Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator
Bosch 1680cc secondaries
OEM 850cc as primaries
KG parts secondary rail
Rotary Performance "competition" fuel pump
Stainless lines with AN fittings

Engine

Engine rebuilt and mildly ported 9/2013
Rotary Works throttle body
Rotary Works V mount intercooler/radiator
Ported UIM
Greddy t3 manifold
Turbonetics 60-1 Turbo with .70/.77
Tial MV-S wastegate
Custom aluminum oil filler neck
Custom coil pack relocation bracket
Rotary works 3" stainless V-band downpipe
Megan 3" stainless midpipe

I think that's it as of now but I'm sure I forgot something.

I still need to get a wideband, boost gauge, coolant temp gauge, catch can, Rywire harness, another Greddy elbow, and a tune.

 

Quite the list there LOL , haven't even driven it and your list is longer then MINE!

 

I went down and got a look at my engine today. I would have picked it up but I need a truck. Going to have to borrow one and pick it up tomorrow. I think it looks pretty damn good.

I also started the v mount install. So far everything is pretty solid. I still have to weld on some L brackets for the condenser, re bend the AC lines, extend the fan wires, and find a new home for the relay box. I think I'm going to mount the relay box under the passenger headlight.





Now that the engine is done and the v mount is all pretty much set, I am going to paint the bay so I can start putting her together permanently.

 

Did some more work today. Got all of the front body panels off and most of the harness out of the way so can start sanding and preparing for paint. I busted two fingers up pretty good too.

 

No gloves = Fail. Also.. our motors are pretty damn small. I've actually picked mine up a hand full of times and put it in my passenger side compartment right there on the floor. Also fits with PLENTY of room in the boot of my prius..

 

The problem with gloves is when you're trying to tighten a 10mm by hand. Frickin sucks lol. I'm not in a huge rush to get the engine home since I still have to paint the bay but I'll get it home today or tomorrow.

 

you need the right gloves then!!! Gloves give you that split second of warning with the angle grinder...and protect from small cuts...slices and Knuckle Busters..

 

I had the rubberized grip ones and the mechanics/autozone cheapo gloves. I hate busting knuckles. Which ones do you use?