BurntOrangeT2

iTrader: (30)

XLR8, I was very impressed with the dual 340 pump tree you made, very mint. But I had a question as I have often though about doing this instead of dual 044's.


Aeromotive*|* FAQ – 340 Stealth Fuel Pumps

^If you read FAQ #13 it states that the use of 2 stealths is not advised in an OEM baffled tank with less than a half tank of gas and could cause lean outs at anything less. Is this a concern to you or have you implemented a safety net of some sorts already?

Thanks
Cory

TwinCharged RX7

iTrader: (14)

That applies to all high flow pump setups. And any forced induction system that has less than adequate starvation protection for that matter.

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

I was thinking more and more about this lately since I had fuel problems with my dual 044 cj setup.

I only had the fuel starvation problem when below about a half tank and only on track with a hard left corner after having to brake real hard. However, I am sure this problem would be exacerbated when the fuel level drops more like when street driving, and if you take a long sweeping left hander like an off ramp or something like that.

I wonder if it would be a good idea to add some checkvalves to the OEM baffle to allow fuel to enter the baffle from more than one location. Or make something similar to the hyperon setup as you may have the same issue if you ever decide to actually drive this car at its limits on a track.

Rotary Extreme Sales 1

iTrader: (6)

you could always install a fuel reservoir.

check this out, its a good read.

Rotary Extreme

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

I didn't see this, or really think of it to be honest. I will look into it further. Thanks


LOL... Yeah, I will probably never track the car in it's current form. HOWEVER, I do enjoy the spirited mountain drive and I can foresee starvation being a issue. I'm always careful about keeping it above 1/4 tank when either hitting turns or full throttle pulls.

ZE Power MX6

iTrader: (157)

I think I have the same pulley kit as yours, do you know what size belt to use without the idler pulley and what size belt to use with both A/C and P/S?

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

My main, and alternator pulleys are Rotary Extreme. I can measure the belt I used before the idler, but the alternator pulley is an underdrive, and it would need to be close for that belt to fit your setup.

I kept my A/C, but not my P/S, so my custom belt would not help you.

Honestly, the best thing to do is take a piece of string and wrap it around the accesories you have. Make note of the length and measure the string. From there, you could get the proper width belt at that length from any manufacturer. For my custom belt, I did just that. Went to Advance Auto with the measurement and they gave me what I needed first try.

davlilly

Great job and great pictures too. Very inspiring.

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

A few small updates. Completed the wastegate plumbing and my MAC solenoid. Plumbing turned out good and solid. The pushloc hose will take the heat. My aluminum coolant lines for the turbo are shaped and awaiting the end fittings. The internal sleeves are on back-order from Earl's so I must wait for them.

I broke down and bought a few "flash" parts. I have been holding out on JDM Tails for a few years with no real need to switch over. Biding my time I found a set in excellent condition. I'll post pics soon, but as you can imagine, they look like any other set of JDM tails.

I also picked up a set of polished door sills. I imagine they will compliment my wheels and overall polished scheme very well. I'll post pics of those soon.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

i'm not sure how much you're going to be driving around at full boost in this thing, but i would definitely recommend using some reflective sleeving on (what looks like) your oil drain line and all your pushlok hose wastegate lines that are down by the manifold.

i am running the same -4 pushlok hose (but blue), and while this hose can take a good amount of heat, it can't stand being inches away from a hell-hot glowing rotary turbo manifold for as long as you may think without some reflective sleeving. i am using the DEI .75" sleeving and it's been great and lasted through multiple months and 150 miles of full boost track day at road atlanta. you may be just fine, but that's my experience.

just something to think about.

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

Agreed. I have used it before quite a bit, with both my oil drain lines and coolant feed. I will likely add it.

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

Just ordered some FireFlex covers for the -4 wastegate lines, and the -10 oil drain.

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

I have also decided to ditch the dual Stealth setup. I just love the pump, but its supply capability with a single pump at around 530whp is a little close for my comfort. I expect to make close to 500whp, and that doesn't leave much lead way. Furthermore, the Stealth flows so well that in dual form, it apparently causes starvation issues with the stock tank baffle. After a bit of research and considerations by you all, I am moving to the Walbro E85 pump. Flowing enough for 600whp, and in single form, I feel that this is what I should have went with initially. Nonetheless, I can sell my one new, and other low mileage Stealths with ease.

Grinch

iTrader: (2)

that's was my first pump of choice but talking to Elliot, said one 485 wouldn't be enough pump for 500hp even though they claim 600. He told me rotarys take around 30% more air and fuel then piston motors. I couldve got a new intake mani and ran four injectors and the 485 and been ok or get a big pump to up the psi or dual o44s.

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

On pump gas, I see no reason why it would not. I have personally seen a 340lph Stealth support 500whp. Furthermore, the individual switched to a standard Walbro 400 and made 530whp. The E85 Walbro tagged 485 will flow even a little more.

I have compared flow charts and done the math. Though I will admit, much of the math was also accomplished by Howard Coleman in the "fuel pumps 2013" thread in the single section.

FCinWV

iTrader: (8)

We both know it is better to over shoot capability ratings brethren. Walbro E85 it up.

Grinch

iTrader: (2)

My bad for some reason thinking were going to be on e85.

JBF

iTrader: (13)

Man. I love this thread. Excellent build.

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

Ah, no worries bro. Yes, on E85 500whp would be pushing it. It would be as the Stealth was, likely capable, but too close for comfort.

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

Thanks buddy.

Big updates coming this weekend. I took leave to have a 3 day. My PLX gauge will arrive, new pump, and sleeving for the wastegate line. I should be able to get the Greddy midpipe tweaked to bolt up as well. Water injection tank will follow, as well as the wiring and tuck with my boost and WI solenoids.

Getting close

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

PLX Integration

As some of you may know, Andy from Adaptronic recently devised a way for the PLX oled gauges to read ECU metrics directly from the Adaptronic ECU. Using his "circuit board", I will have the gauge display my AFR, Boost, EGT1, and EGT2. The DM-100 is versatile and allows complete customization of the display. Color changing, wallpapers, and digital/analog toggle are a few neat features. Another great feature of the DM-100 is warning triggers set by a particular threshold. Coupled with Adaptive Tuner running on my pad, I feel I am covered in the gauge department. This setup is MUCH cleaner than my previous as I wanted to keep my interior simple, and functional. I have always liked the column gauge pod as it is directly below my line of sight when driving. No more looking around the cabin. I will post install pics this weekend.

Leave approved! Bring on the 3-day weekend!!

Ceylon

iTrader: (3)

That's pretty awesome, so tempted by this ECU!

Looking forward to seeing it all working

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

XL8R, random thought: have you done research about those crimp clamps you're using for your pushlok hose?

i read some post by an aeromotive employee (supposedly an employee) on some LS1 forums saying that if you clamp down on the outside of the pushlok hose on the barbs it can cause the inner "locking" layer of the pushlok to rip and it's actually worse than having no clamp, and they actually recommend not using a clamp at all.

just another thing to think about (also, i'm not trying to pick apart your setup. it looks great and i'm very impressed)

i'm also interested to see this adaptronic in action. i'm still haltech 4 lyfe though. haha

Rotary Extreme Sales 1

iTrader: (6)

can we test this with spare parts?

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

I discussed this very issue with the owner of BATinc. He said they do not affect the hose at all, they sell thousands of them for every possible application. The key to proper Otiker clamps is sizing. If you get the wrong size, it still slips over the hose and clamps, but WAY too tight. Every AN size has a specific Otiker size. If you just "wing it", then you can run into issues as the clamps do carry a good bid of strength as you clamp them down. And yes, he told me they really aren't even needed also. They are there as tamper insurance, and extreme heat conditions. I added them mostly for "insurance" and "looks". I thought they looked neat and if they added a little extra safety, than that was cool too. However, I confirmed every proper size and could see when clamped they aren't really stressing the hose.

And don't worry bro, my setup is far from perfect. I like hearing these advices and thoughts. Thanks.

I actually have. I messed up a few hose lengths that I had to cut the end off. I cut the Otiker clamp, and put a slice down the side of the hose to open it up from the fitting. The inside was in perfect shape, and perfectly formed around the barb. No tearing or weirdness. I've done this to a few fittings and have always looked at the inside. No issues.