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94 Build... GT35R, RE Vmount and a whole lot more............ NOW WITH PISTONS!!

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Old 06-02-13, 09:33 PM
  #376  
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man loving the work your putting on the seven. Is that just a mod oem pump hanger?
Old 06-02-13, 10:00 PM
  #377  
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Originally Posted by FCinWV
The testers paint made that TB look great. Love this build. But then again Mista Stoncypher , do I have a choice ?
I can't wait to drive it bro. Even more, I can't wait to get a shoot and cruise with your MB FB!!
Old 06-02-13, 10:02 PM
  #378  
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Originally Posted by Grinch
man loving the work your putting on the seven. Is that just a mod oem pump hanger?
Thanks. Yep, chop off the feed and "Y" the two pumps together. For my power goals, the factory lines do fine. If I ever start stepping much beyond 500whp, it will need more attention.
Old 06-03-13, 08:28 AM
  #379  
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Pump setup looks good - hell of a lot cleaner than mine! If you haven't done so, make sure you use proper submersible fuel hose for the intank pieces. The external layer of rubber on regular fuel line is NOT fuel tolerant and will swell and degrade VERY quickly = LEAKS! Ask me how I know. You can get it from NAPA.


Your setup looks great. It's come so far from when we met a couple years ago! Keep up the great work!

Regards,
Crispy
Old 06-03-13, 09:19 AM
  #380  
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How confident are you that the racetronix unit will not leak? How was the install?

I wanted to buy it a few months ago and they were out of stock. I really want to pick it up and fix what I currently have. It seems like a much more elegant and "proper" solution.

It was the only solution that I could find that was not a few hundred dollars. I am surprised there are not more manufactures making aftermarket bulkhead connectors for fuel systems.
Old 06-03-13, 09:38 AM
  #381  
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In addition to the proper fuel hose, you need the proper clamps. Worm gear clamps are a no no. Get the proper fuel hose clamps. And I'd also like to know about the bulkhead connector.
Old 06-03-13, 11:52 AM
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Did you ever think about using a single walbro 485? Guess there rated to 600hp on e85. Jw if I might have to change my idea on pumps before I start on it.

Last edited by Grinch; 06-03-13 at 11:54 AM.
Old 06-03-13, 02:40 PM
  #383  
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The electrical bulkhead connector used by Josh is rated for fuel system use. "This bulkhead connector wiring system brings four wires into a fuel tank while being fully tested vapor-proof (sealed)"

I used the below (I was not aware of what Josh found when I assembled my setup)
- Engine Works fuel tank cover thru-panel electrical bulkhead connector (x2)[pn 16779 $27.00]

FWIW,
Crispy



Old 06-03-13, 07:01 PM
  #384  
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Originally Posted by CrispyRX7
Pump setup looks good - hell of a lot cleaner than mine! If you haven't done so, make sure you use proper submersible fuel hose for the intank pieces. The external layer of rubber on regular fuel line is NOT fuel tolerant and will swell and degrade VERY quickly = LEAKS! Ask me how I know. You can get it from NAPA.


Your setup looks great. It's come so far from when we met a couple years ago! Keep up the great work!

Regards,
Crispy
Thanks Crispy. Yes, the hose is Gates submersible.

Originally Posted by RENESISFD
How confident are you that the racetronix unit will not leak? How was the install?

I wanted to buy it a few months ago and they were out of stock. I really want to pick it up and fix what I currently have. It seems like a much more elegant and "proper" solution.

It was the only solution that I could find that was not a few hundred dollars. I am surprised there are not more manufactures making aftermarket bulkhead connectors for fuel systems.
I think it will work great! They were out of stock just until recently. The install was pretty straight forward. I should have taken a picture of the fitting up close before installed. There is a nice O-ring that fits to the outside and seals against the drilled hole. They recommend a 10mm hole. I used a 25/64 bit which is 9.9219mm. The clamp on the inside snaps it down tight. It was not easy getting it snug to the base. I turned the assembly upside down, and took a socket and sit the top flat part of the bulkhead on it. As my wife held it, I took a small punch and tapped the clamp down. It is solid.

I am quite confident it is completely sealed. Its very solid and doesn't move. The O-ring is fuel grade and should seal to the base just like an injector.

Originally Posted by mefarri
In addition to the proper fuel hose, you need the proper clamps. Worm gear clamps are a no no. Get the proper fuel hose clamps. And I'd also like to know about the bulkhead connector.
What clamps would you recommend? The 5/16" hose I used was very snug on both the OEM feed pipe and the -6AN fittings. No need to wrench the clamp down, just give a little squeeze.

Originally Posted by Grinch
Did you ever think about using a single walbro 485? Guess there rated to 600hp on e85. Jw if I might have to change my idea on pumps before I start on it.
I did consider the 485. I also considered the 400. The 340 Stealth has been proven to 500whp, so I can foresee either of the bigger Walbros working. Maybe it is the stigma of the "Walbro" name, but I felt it was just as easy to buy another of the same pump and call it a day. As they say, many ways to skin a cat.

There is no question I will have fuel for days. If I want more power, it will be a matter of upgrading the lines.
Old 06-03-13, 07:06 PM
  #385  
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Dual relay and fuel pump wiring will be coming this weekend. My new A/C compressor will be arriving soon so I can get it looking pretty and mounted up. I just picked up a chromed idler so that will look nice. (Thanks Crispy )
Old 06-03-13, 10:33 PM
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These. See how there are no slits to slowly bite into the hose.

Google Image Result for http://www.ratwell.com/dotmac/Pictures/MoreParts7/43-ABAClamps.jpg


Also, those bulkheads Crispy used are a no go as well.
Old 06-04-13, 03:17 AM
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Originally Posted by mefarri
These. See how there are no slits to slowly bite into the hose.

Google Image Result for http://www.ratwell.com/dotmac/Pictures/MoreParts7/43-ABAClamps.jpg


Also, those bulkheads Crispy used are a no go as well.
Josh, I agree on not using the worm clamps for fuel hoses, plenty of horror stories in the internet to back it up

Marc, I saw the pics of the clamp in the link, Do you think its possible the extension inside the clamp would cause more of a stabbing motion as its tightened and could actually stretch/tear the hose... I know it would have to be over tightened to do that though. Would it be good to use some red line lubricant as its tightened to ensure safety of the hose. Do they sell that design with a less obtrusive section on the inside?

I personally like these. OEM stlye...lol

Help 13400 Corbin Clamp Asst : Amazon.com : Automotive Help 13400 Corbin Clamp Asst : Amazon.com : Automotive
Old 06-04-13, 06:12 AM
  #388  
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I see your point. I used the same clamps Aeromotive sent with the pump. I think there could be an issue if over-tightened, but I didn't.
Old 06-04-13, 06:38 AM
  #389  
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Originally Posted by mefarri
These. See how there are no slits to slowly bite into the hose.

Google Image Result for http://www.ratwell.com/dotmac/Pictures/MoreParts7/43-ABAClamps.jpg


Also, those bulkheads Crispy used are a no go as well.
+1 to that.

A buddy of mine used those bulkhead fittings and he has fuel seepage under cornering.
Old 06-04-13, 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by XLR8
I see your point. I used the same clamps Aeromotive sent with the pump. I think there could be an issue if over-tightened, but I didn't.
I think you'll probably change your set-up to something different or better AGAIN before anything has time to fail....
Old 06-05-13, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Rotary Extreme Sales 1
I think you'll probably change your set-up to something different or better AGAIN before anything has time to fail....
Me??... . I can foresee a CJ Motorsports assembly in the future.
Old 06-05-13, 08:27 PM
  #392  
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Forget the cj assembly unless you want fuel starvation.
Old 06-06-13, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by RENESISFD
Forget the cj assembly unless you want fuel starvation.
Roger that. I definitely trust your advice John. Btw, I had the fitting welded
Old 06-06-13, 06:38 PM
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Glad to hear you had the fitting welded.
Old 06-13-13, 10:19 PM
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A few small parts arrived, and more on the way. Still waiting for the two big ones, exhaust manifold and Vmount...

I started getting all of my A/C components in order. I picked up a complete O-ring kit, rebuilt compressor, expansion valve and a new dryer. Spent some time cleaning up the A/C lines. They polish quite easily. Should be ready for a fresh charge of ES-12a

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Old 06-15-13, 09:05 PM
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Nice looking build happening here.
Old 06-16-13, 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Nizmentality
Nice looking build happening here.
Thank ya Sir. It's starting to come together.
Old 06-16-13, 12:17 AM
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A/C components installed. The expansion valve wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. Much of this was from my stripped bay so the outer connections were all ready separated. I used a write-up that was done by a member and it made it a breeze. Gotta love the club!

Compressor and lines are pretty much in place. Of course, I'm waiting for the condensor side to get connected when I install the Vmount. Really looking forward to icey vent temps.

To address my idler pulley, I have had questions about running the idler this way. As you can see, I have essentially bypassed the PS pump and run the belt "rib" down to a flat idler. I have had ZERO issues with this for 6k miles and 3 years. I actually got the tip from another member when searching for a solution. He had ran it that way for a few years as well. The belt has shown no adverse wear.

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Old 06-18-13, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by XLR8
A/C components installed. The expansion valve wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. Much of this was from my stripped bay so the outer connections were all ready separated. I used a write-up that was done by a member and it made it a breeze. Gotta love the club!

Compressor and lines are pretty much in place. Of course, I'm waiting for the condensor side to get connected when I install the Vmount. Really looking forward to icey vent temps.

To address my idler pulley, I have had questions about running the idler this way. As you can see, I have essentially bypassed the PS pump and run the belt "rib" down to a flat idler. I have had ZERO issues with this for 6k miles and 3 years. I actually got the tip from another member when searching for a solution. He had ran it that way for a few years as well. The belt has shown no adverse wear.


What size belt did you use for the ac? I'm finally getting to redoing mine and I eliminated the power steering as well.
Old 06-18-13, 04:50 PM
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Awesome. I've been wondering about this for days. Did you swap out the idler for one with a lip to keep the belt from slipping off or just use the stock pulley? Also, if it is the stock pulley, how did you get that shine


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