My innovative MTX- L Plus wide band air fuel ratio gauge either takes a very long time to warm up or won't warm up at all. I have everything wire up the way they recommend with 18gauge wire. All connections are solider on. Just put new o2 sensor in. Alt is charging 12.5v. Fairly new optima battery. O2 sensor is tight. I am using a heat sink bung I dont know if that's part of the problem. Was thinking of going to a bigger size power wire to the wb. Anyone else have this problem or does it have to be something wrong with the way I instaled it or something. The alt. Is a turbo 2 fc alternator i think that's 80amp. With a charge wire from alt. Positive to Batt positive.

 

Pic of which heatsink bung you went with?

I didn't see anything about free air calibration... When did you do it?

What is the gauge reading after a long period of being on with the vehicle being off?

 

I calibrated it before installation. After calibration it read 22.4 or 22.9 I forget exactly. Before calibration i unpluged it powered on. The heatsink bung is from innovative . I installed new o2 sensor yesterday and it worked fine powered up quick. Today went to drive it wouldn't power up at all just says Htr. Checked everything, power, how tight it was. All connections. everything looked good.

 

Alt charging at 12.5V doesn't sound very healthy to me
Don't know if it's related

 

First thing I would do is remove the heatsink. It's likely skewing the readings and one solution would be to drill it out a bit larger on either side.

Alternator Voltage is too low. Address that soon.

What did you "unplug"? If you unplug the 6-pin connector, the settings reset entirely (as per manual).

Show us your wiring. Make sure you aren't using the dimmer wire. I'm betting the wiring is wrong.

 

I went out today to drive the car and the wide band heated right up. Didn't even take 30 sec. To warm up. I didnt touch a thing after driving yesterday when it didn't heat up at all after a 30min drive. I dont have it hooked up to the dimmer wire. I think i have a bad ground someplace. This is a fb that I converted to fuel injection from carb. The ground wires on The block are new but are stock. I have my smart coils grounded to each rotor housing. Everything else is grounded to the chassis or Batt. Neg. I'm going to add another ground strap on the block to body. Alt. Is charging 12.6. Tested this time with my fluke meter

 

After watching the adaptronic video on how to properly ground the ecu. I realized my problem. I had everything but my coils grounded to the body of the car. I thought if i had everything grounded in one place (chassis ground) it was good. So i grounded everything to the engine. Problem solved. Wide band warms up fast with no problems.

 

Are you still getting 12.6v reading after fixing the grounding points? That seems really weak. Which alternator are you running?

On my REPU, I had the ECU grounded to the body (made the same newbie mistake as you) and was seeing 13.0v in the logs. When I moved the ECU ground to the engine it went to 14.4v. At the same time I also made sure the sense wire went straight to the battery (not to my ignition switch) and cleaned up the faces of the side-mount alternator bracket. It was the Atkins side mount kit that is anodized black. I realized the coating was probably not helping the alternator ground to the block. Only problem I have now is that when I turn the lights on, the alternator really puts a drag on the engine and almost stalls it. I need to get the idle control sorted so RPMs don't drop to the point where the voltage starts dropping too.

 

Ya still only getting 12.6 volts. The alternator is a s4 t2 70 or 80 amp. Its brand new not a rebuild from rockauto. I had a rebuild one before, from autozone that charged the same. So doubt its the alt. The harness is all stock for the charging system. i got rid of the fuseable links and installed a fc fuse box, and put a 6 gauge power wire from the alt. to batt. positive. That did seem to help a little. No issues when i turn on the lights even with the aftermarket H4 headlights.( with new headlight relays/harness.)

 

Did you run the S terminal on the alternator all the way to the battery with a separate fused and diode thin gauge (16ga or 18ga) wire? The wire length should be similar to the typical length wire to your accessories as it is designed to measure voltage drop across that distance and allow the alternator to charge accordingly. If you just loop the b post to the s terminal (common mistake) you'll see lower voltages everywhere but the post itself. If you forget the diode, power will run from alternator to battery along this new lead and pop the smaller fuse and mess with readings.