R85 installed, pics...
#1
WWFSMD
Thread Starter
R85 installed, pics...
I ran out of time and my car won't make it to SevenStock this year. But it will be done soon and I did take some pics of the R85 turbo installed. I figure some of you chaps might be interested...
-Max
-Max
The following users liked this post:
liquidusculade (01-29-23)
#6
WWFSMD
Thread Starter
I am switching to a front mount IC. It is the IC that Pettit builds for their 20B cars. I saw it for sale and thought I'd give it a try. Bah, I was going to post a link to the for sale thread from the Classifieds section, but the forum is too slow for me to go find it. Red-Rx7 was the seller and Pettit and 20B would probably turn up the thread if you really want to see the core. It's pretty cool -- the core is about 21x3.5x10.5 and flows vertically.
I will be using my trusty old MazdaComp radiator, though it will be custom mounted vertically behind the IC and AC cores. I'm sure I'll need ducting, etc. to keep engine temps in check, but I'm going to give it a shot. I will be running NPG+ coolant, stock main pulley, an AST, etc. as well so hopefully the cooling system will work out okay. I'll just have to try it and see and make any adjustments that are needed as I go.
-Max
I will be using my trusty old MazdaComp radiator, though it will be custom mounted vertically behind the IC and AC cores. I'm sure I'll need ducting, etc. to keep engine temps in check, but I'm going to give it a shot. I will be running NPG+ coolant, stock main pulley, an AST, etc. as well so hopefully the cooling system will work out okay. I'll just have to try it and see and make any adjustments that are needed as I go.
-Max
Trending Topics
#9
WWFSMD
Thread Starter
The install was relatively smooth, I think. I had Mazdatrix install it since they just built me a new motor at the same time. They did move the water line that runs along the inside of the fender there, and they also moved the wiring for the ABS wheel sensor to keep it away from the turbine housing. The turbo is big and it is a tight fit, but it does seem to fit in there okay. It doesn't hit the fender or anything.
The car is still being assembled, so I don't know how the lag is yet. I'll report my driving impressions after the car is back on the road, broken in, and tuned. I will probably get a dyno test pretty soon (few months?), too.
-Max
The car is still being assembled, so I don't know how the lag is yet. I'll report my driving impressions after the car is back on the road, broken in, and tuned. I will probably get a dyno test pretty soon (few months?), too.
-Max
#10
Racing is Life.....
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Northern California
Posts: 576
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I speak for the group when I say that is one big-*** turbo. Makes my T04S look small....
Have fun terrorizing the track with that.
Oh, yeah, how much does it weigh?
Beast
Have fun terrorizing the track with that.
Oh, yeah, how much does it weigh?
Beast
#14
WWFSMD
Thread Starter
The turbo itself weighs 30.2 lbs. The manifold, wastegate, etc. weighs another 15 lbs or so. Part of the huge weight of the turbo is that the turbine housing is simply enormous -- it extends further than most turbine housings do, and it is also divided.
I will update my site when the new setup is complete.
I plan to run pump gas at around 15 psi. I want a setup that I can just run normal gas with, so whatever boost I can run with 91 octane pump gas is what I will be running. I expect that to be about 15 psi. I went big with the turbo because I want to be able to rev it out and still make power at 8K+ RPM.
I plan to do my own tuning. Hopefully I won't blow it up this time.
The WB is pretty close to the turbo. I plan to move it toward the other end of the downpipe and put the stock O2 sensor in that spot. I will be getting the turbo manifold, turbine housing, and downpipe thermal coated, so I will probably need to move the sensor even further down the pipe than would otherwise be optimal.
-Max
I will update my site when the new setup is complete.
I plan to run pump gas at around 15 psi. I want a setup that I can just run normal gas with, so whatever boost I can run with 91 octane pump gas is what I will be running. I expect that to be about 15 psi. I went big with the turbo because I want to be able to rev it out and still make power at 8K+ RPM.
I plan to do my own tuning. Hopefully I won't blow it up this time.
The WB is pretty close to the turbo. I plan to move it toward the other end of the downpipe and put the stock O2 sensor in that spot. I will be getting the turbo manifold, turbine housing, and downpipe thermal coated, so I will probably need to move the sensor even further down the pipe than would otherwise be optimal.
-Max
#15
WWFSMD
Thread Starter
And before anyone mentions it, yes the WG dump is pointing the wrong directions. It is pointed upward in the picture because we were looking at what direction it should go to rejoin with the downpipe. It probably won't be straight up like that anyway (and certainly won't be straight up into the downpipe from there), but we were checking it out.
-Max
-Max
#16
Corn-to-Noise Converter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: The Elysian Fields (Texas)
Posts: 1,527
Received 386 Likes
on
154 Posts
Thanks Max
Hey Max,
Thanks for all of the insight and pictures.
Now that I'm slightly more than half-way through this deployment to the Gulf, I'm planning some upgrades when I get back. I suspect that selling my RX6 and picking up one of these is likely. So keep up the always informative work.
Flyin, Fightin and Sweatin my **** off in Rotary Beasts,
LCDR Carlos Iglesias
USS ROOSEVELT (DDG 80) Airboss
Airboss@ddg-roosevelt.navy.mil
Thanks for all of the insight and pictures.
Now that I'm slightly more than half-way through this deployment to the Gulf, I'm planning some upgrades when I get back. I suspect that selling my RX6 and picking up one of these is likely. So keep up the always informative work.
Flyin, Fightin and Sweatin my **** off in Rotary Beasts,
LCDR Carlos Iglesias
USS ROOSEVELT (DDG 80) Airboss
Airboss@ddg-roosevelt.navy.mil
Last edited by carlos@the-rotary.net; 09-11-04 at 02:06 AM. Reason: Sig change
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 528
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
air filter
Originally Posted by maxcooper
I ran out of time and my car won't make it to SevenStock this year. But it will be done soon and I did take some pics of the R85 turbo installed. I figure some of you chaps might be interested...
-Max
-Max
I can send you the calculations, if desired.
Regards,
Gene
#20
WWFSMD
Thread Starter
Thanks Gene.
I will be getting a bigger filter. The one in the pic comes with the kit and I think it was selected because it is more likely to fit with whatever the buyer has installed in front of it than a longer filter. I've got lots of room, so I'll be using a larger filter. I might not switch until after I get the car back and start doing the break-in. I will just buy the longest filter that will physically fit at that point. No need to send the calcs, I've got a K&N catalog, too.
-Max
I will be getting a bigger filter. The one in the pic comes with the kit and I think it was selected because it is more likely to fit with whatever the buyer has installed in front of it than a longer filter. I've got lots of room, so I'll be using a larger filter. I might not switch until after I get the car back and start doing the break-in. I will just buy the longest filter that will physically fit at that point. No need to send the calcs, I've got a K&N catalog, too.
-Max
#21
WWFSMD
Thread Starter
more pics
We turned the compressor housing so the exit is at the bottom now. It is a tight fit up top, and I think you would have to weld an elbow to the compressor housing to clear the hood. But it works out better for my setup to exit downward anyway, so we turned it. The IC I'm running is a vertical-flow front mount, and we're going to have the air come in though the bottom. Right now, there is a tank on the side that carries the air from the high-mounted intake pipe down to the bottom of the core. If we move the intake pipe to the bottom, it doesn't have to make that journey and endure those bends.
Anyway, here are some more pics.
-Max
Anyway, here are some more pics.
-Max
#24
Rebreaking things
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: 1 foot in Boston 1 in NJ
Posts: 2,586
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by maxcooper
We turned the compressor housing so the exit is at the bottom now. It is a tight fit up top, and I think you would have to weld an elbow to the compressor housing to clear the hood. But it works out better for my setup to exit downward anyway, so we turned it.
-Max
-Max
I'm working on the same thing. I have a 2-row Greddy front mount (which already has the outlets at the bottom of the core) with an upright radiator. The hot pipe will exit outside the belly pan, then pass back in near the sway bar mount. I think this setup has a couple benefits. First, the pipe length is shorter with less curves (at least with the greddy 2-row). Second, it creates a lot more room for a cold air intake setup. Third, it makes it easier to seal the radiator in against the intercooler.
Good luck with the project.