Those aren't independent studies...
They are someone else's opinion like your dislike for RP.

and your last link.......

http://www.smartsynthetics.com/artic...il_testing.htm

has as much credit as Diesel Truck Showdown

 

Until you get it tested you're simply guessing. You would be surpirsed how fast oil loses viscosity in these engines.

 

I certainly am no expert but trust me, neither are you, by far. And i never said i was. I have no idea where you come up with your phrasing.

I said its good oil, many people said its good oil. Tests show it proves better numbers than most leading competing brands. You said it doesnt.

Ok thats fine. But you jump on every single person who mentions oil and says its garbage is childish.

And this is the 3rd or 4th time this week you're starting with me with your "2 cents" replies, quoting my posts. The admins know about this, trust me.

Just put me on ignore, you might get saved by the guillotine. lol



Never said they didnt occur. I just said its rare. Engine builders say its rare and its not a problem unless you change your oil properly. That in itself should end the subject. Not because of what you saw "first hand".




But ummmmmm you mentioned standardized dude....... lol

lol omg this is getting hilarious.

 

Used oil analysis is in fact an independent study, although not standardized of course.

What impresses me about Amsoil is they actually put their money where their mouth is, and independent studies that have been performed like this one http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0310_oil/index.html back up the results.

Not independent, but the test wasn't rigged, either

 

Exactly.

Didnt see those links.

Thanks for clearing that up man.

 

What hilarious (and sad) is you don't seem to understand the difference between "standardized testing" and "independent testing"

 

Another oil thread, another useless argument about nothing that matters >_>

FYI, the reason people use Royal Purple is because it burns cleanly with the OMP. This has been proven by people like Racing Beat and everyone who uses it when they open their motor its not full of a ton of carbon. It's what I use. For lube, regular mineral oil is more then fine unless your tracking your car (strip or drag) and even then it really depends how much your really beating on it. I normally just tell people to go with Castrol 10W-40 locally. So that fact that X is better then Y in 10,000 miles, who gives a flying crap. Just change your oil and it doesn't matter. Not that it mattered to begin with >_>

thewird

 

http://www.imakenews.com/eletra/mod_...PM&uid=bdgDHkp

 

^ Again, who cares? What do you have to prove besides starting argument in every thread you don't agree with with someones point of view? Are you answering the OP's question?

thewird

 

I care. So do alot of people who spend their hard earned money on these products. If you don't, fine, butt out...good luck with your worn bearings because "it just doesn't matter"...riiiight

 

THIS...

Another veteran member with track experience and KNOWLEDGE agrees.

Add another one to the books guys..

 

Loosen your belts if your worried about your bearings, probably have a noticeable affect instead of "magic" oil.



thewird

 

Castrol GTX 20-50 here...

 

I like this remark from the Diesel Dudes forum....

I run Country Crock plus Calcium in mine, man that special calcium addative really helps the viscosity stay where I need it to be. And to make sure I got me some good detergents in there, I add a quart of Tide at every oil change. My injectors are way quieter, and I even noticed a 10% increase in my fuel mileage.

 

Did I mention I put Sweet & Low in my oil so it taste good?

 

Any synthetic will burn more cleanly than dino, there is absolutely nothing special about Royal Ripoff. Two stroke synthetics are better yet, which is why I use Amsoil Interceptor two stroke pre-mix. Guess what? When I pulled my engine apart recently with 30k miles because of a slightly leaking coolant seal, the rotors were essentially carbon-free, with my builder telling me the cleanest he had ever seen.

Viscosity is key with these motors because fuel dilution always occurs with turbo rotaries (which is why I run SAE 50 straight weight, and I've had it analyzed to prove it is the equivalent viscosity of 10w-30 after 2,000 miles). What can you prove? Not a damn thing, really. I've also seen many other analysis where the car was driven hard under boost and they all show the same trend of > 2% fuel dilution and significant viscosity loss. Lubricating properties of fuel diluted oil are significantly reduced, this is undeniable fact.

The reality is many of these engines suffer catastrophic failure before oil related failure - true. However, using a high quality oil of the right viscosity still matters. Why? In the case of my engine, thanks to my attention to oil viscosity and frequent changes, the rotor housings were perfect and could be re-used as new, even the apex seals were in fantastic shape (as in, checked via micrometer), and the bearings showed very little wear.

 

1. I've been here longer
2. Track experience is all well and good, but it doesn't tell you much about oil performance unless you are routinely tearing engines down. I happen to live near a shop where these engines are torn down every day. Your choice of oil and how often you change it DOES MATTER, period

Sorry, saying you like RP without any basis isn't "knowledge", it's rhetoric

 

People have had the similar experiences using regular dino oil with regular oil changes and no-premix, whats your point? I run 5W-40 RP and open my engine every winter or so and haven't had to replace any of the bearings since a real oil failure (zero oil pressure) a few years ago. I don't even change my oil that frequently. I've also put a lot more mileage on my engine then yours, most of which at the track at redline & 20 PSi for 30 minute sessions for whole days. Last year I put about 20k km on the engine, almost 30k km the year before.

thewird

 

You mean no carbon build-up? Let's see the examples.

 

I use Castrol GTX 20W50 in my 1st gen RX7 fitted with a 13B motor and a single turbo. I live in South Africa and it gets very hot arround here so Castrol works very well here

 

Wow, another thread that will turn into a debate...Let me get some popcorn again...

 

Mobil developed its synthetic in the 60's and defined the aviation and auto markets. Yes they recently released semi-synthetic API Group III as marketing against the many other brands Shell, Chevron, etc of semi's offering lower price and many of the advantages. They only entered after they lost a suit they filled to stop others using the name "synthetic" when they are modified dino oils. by the way Europe does not permit these to be called synethic. As to 100% synthetic i.e API group IV (PAO) and group V (Esters) their are fully syntheic other tahn a few % dilution from the dino base oil used to carry the additive package (which you should hope it includes). The additive package is preblended into a dino oil base stock by the additive supplier, price you pay to get the moly's, phosphates and lithium soups that provide heavy duty protection.

 

I use Mobil 1 0W-40 a full group IV PAO synthetic. Anhave used Mobil 1 since the 70's and in Rotarys since 82

As mentioned a search will pull up hundreds of threads on this subject.

 

Anytime one particular silly person turns up in a thread it is going to turn into a debate. I'd venture since no-more-rice (iirc) was given Das Boot that the current individual in question is perhaps the biggest blight on the forum.

We get it dude, you have a Naploean Complex, it doesn't mean every conversation has to be an argument. Park your bike next to any potholes lately? LOL!

 

lol

Funny you mention napoleon complex. My co-worker and i were talking about that yesterday!!

Yes something is seriously wrong with that other guy. But maybe one day he'll see the light and come to his senses.