I know in rx-7's you have to use conventional oil but what brand of oil does everyone use. Also what weight are you using? And what engine do you got?

Alot of people say redline but I work in a shop and we got a report on the test of a bunch of convention brands and synthetic oils and redline was one of the worst.

Thanks in advance guy

 

I currently run Mobile one synthetic because I got rid of the oil metering pump, but before that I was running Valvoline VR1 racing 20w50.

 

Hey guys this has been discussed before in many threads so i suggest doing a search
In any event I use Royal Purple 20W50 for the following reasons
*I live in South Florida where it's humid
*I run a big single turbo
*I use Royal Purple because the guy that built my motor uses Royal Purple, I'm not a diehard fan of synthetics and im not saying there is any advantages for using it in the rotary motor but if he runs it in his 600hp E85 FD than i fell I shouldn't have a problem.
* Most likely the next oil change i will start using Idemitsu Rotary Synthetic 20w50

Im no expert but Howard Coleman is
Please do a search on his threads....... Be advised it's good reading and it will take a long time, so take the laptop with you when you go the crapper.

 

Just go to home depot and buy a big bag of sand to pour down the filler neck. Weight? Whatever you can carry to the car.

 

Castrol GTX 20/50 every 3000 miles. I did that with my second gen also, it was still running good when i sold it with 166,000 on the odometer.

 

I run conventional Castrol GTX 20W-50

 

valvoline VR1 20w50 racing oil

 

seriously

 

I did concrete instead. Worked great.

 

I use Castrol GTX 10W30 in the winter and 20W50 in the summer.

 

Brad Penn SAE 50w. However, these threads are worthless because no one ever posts a UOA showing how the viscosity holds up to turbo rotary abuse

 

Red line Synthetic 15w-50...I change it when the dipstick tells me to.

 

Btw Ball Joint. Mobil synthetic isn't s true synthetic oil it's semi at most. It's only called synthetic cause it's fully man made. But with the little chemicals they use and the ones they use make it a semi. I'll try to get you a copy of the tests we got back to show you if you want proof.

There's alot of peoPle using synthetic it seems. I was on the understanding that synthetic in the rotary engine was really bad for the seals and made it start to leak at early stages in te engines life. Anyone have problems with it leaking?

 

+1 on royal purple. My oil results showed better results on rp compared to castrol gtx 10w30 and Mobil 1 full syn 10w30.

Running idemitsu syn 10w30. Going to get that tested too when my cycle is up. About 500 miles to go.

 

^ No point in getting your oil tested when you putz at 10 psi, of course it's going to look ok

Royal Purple consistently ranks among the worst of the major synthetics in standardized tests. Amsoil and several others blow it right out of the water - that isn't just opinion, it's hard data.

 

Valvoline VR1 racing 20w50
still using OMP, premix w/ pettit protek-r

 

hrmmm...what's that cost. $10?

 

Idemitsu premix and engine oil, fresh 20w50 in the engine and a track day coming up

 

I use shell 15w-40 mineral oil in my car.
Thats what the engine builder put in when my engine was rebuilt with 3mm seals so thats what iv continued using.
Thinking more about it, I wonder if the thicker oil perhaps helps to lubricate the thicker 3mm apex seals better. Just a theory.

 

Your ignorance never cease to amaze me. But i dont mind because its just more fuel for your fire. That clock is still ticking for you btw

Btw, no one said royal purple is the best. No one said its better than amsoil. Amsoil is probably one of the very best if not THE best PURE syn oil out there. This thread isnt about that.

RP is a good oil whether you wanna admit to it or not. And no it doesnt rank "amongst the worst".

It has done better numbers than M1, havoline etc, in standardized tests. And they put these oils in trucks/cop cars for their tests.

So you know that oil gets a good beating. RP has showed better results over the competing brand.

 

You talk alot about ignorance, but 9 times out of 10 it's coming from you, alone. Fact: you previously stated that you drive your FD easy because you're afraid the motor might pop. Fact: You drive alot of freeway miles and stay off the boost for the most part (again, your words, not mine). Fact: You're running a stock ECU at 10 psi or less. With these facts in hand, it's readily apparent why any oil is going to experience limited fuel dilution and associated oil thinning combined with low wear metals. No, far from "ignorant" I truly "read you like a book".

Then what is it about? Random baseless opinions? Turbocharged rotary engines are notroriously hard on oil, why not use the (proven) best product possible, with a viscosity that anticipates fuel dilution thinning, because it always happens with these motors?

It's not a good oil, relatively speaking, and I don't think it's much cheaper, if any cheaper. So what's your point? Use it because it's purple or because some paid sponsor says it's great?

Let's see the independent studies.

 

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/gen...l-6-4-a-4.html
http://www.ls1lt1.com/forum/showthread.php?p=235461

 

I said i dont drive hard cause i dont want my car to break. Any person should understand that statement. I do say i get on it every once in a while because i know about carbon buildup. Yes i said i do a lot of highway miles, because i live 3 blocks from the highway?? I like cruising? And the point?

You are ignorant. Because you argue from moot points. There are too many factors that need to be played yet you take one and it HAS to comply with "your logic". This is not a perfect world, whether you want it to be or not, get over it man.

lol nice trying to steal my line, BUT i knew you would do that, because i do, in fact, can "read you like a book". I know whats coming next too but ill wait lol



Read the thread title. Who said anything about whats better? The OP simply asked what people put in their engines. Yes this is a subject that was beaten to death but we dont need your 2 cents on the subject, especially since you're in NO position to speak from it. You're just as knowledgeable on the subject next to the other guy. We already had engine builders say in other threads very RARE you will see any engine failure due to oil related problems.

Their word destroys anything you could have said or will say by miles.




Again, no one ever said its the best but it is good. Post links of it ranking among the worst and ill shut up for good about the subject and learn from you from now on..

Show you independent studies? But you just mentioned standardized tests..... lol

And you can read me like a book? I dont even think you can read what you just typed. lol

 

What makes you or anyone else qualified? Are you a tribologist?

Oil related failures are rare, but they do occur. Excessive bearing wear on the other hand is quite common in these motors, I've seen it first hand.

LOL. Wow, you obviously don't have a CLUE what the term "standardized" means. Ever hear of ASTM? Look it up. These tests can be set-up and run by anyone with the right equipment.

http://www.smartsynthetics.com/artic...il_testing.htm

 

Even though this thread is not needed because it's been discussed in numerous times before, two people are ruining the thread by arguing.

By the way I used Castrol GTX 10w-30, live in hot climate and change it every 1000 miles. Probably overkill to change so early but at that point I don't have to worry about dilution orwearing it out even though I'm only "putzing" around at 10psi