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What are these two pieces? I bought an FD that was in the process of getting vacuum line replaced and it fell through.
Now I am stuck with two pieces that Can’t seem to find where they go. The car has a lumpy idle and is smoking. They may or may not be related, but if you guys can tell me what they are too it can help.
The first response explain some of my idling symptoms and gives me a place to start.
Ill be looking for the mounting place of the lifting eye today as well.
I did fill it with oil and am starting to think it could “potentially “ explain my smoking symptoms.
i out 5 quarts. The resource I found said 4.7 , and from the more thorough searching it looks more like 3.5 😕 I’ll drain oils today and check the breather tube and also the potential gasket spot for the turbo oil feed. The car does still have the stock setup.
in addition the PCV valve is cracked where the two have meet.
A broken pcv check valve, a vacuum leak, and too much oil in the engine would explain much. Here are the locations of the 2 engine lifting eyes, circled in yellow:
The gasket appears to be graphite. Definitely not a gasket for anything wet. Its air for sure. The eyelet is the one for the rear of the uim and yes there should be a ground coming from it to the firewall. Its a very important ground.
Can't make out the 1st picture very well, but it looks like MAP sensor nipple.
In the second photo, the line does not look stock. It would help to know for certain which nipple that hose connects to on the back of the TB. Is your MAP sensor in the normal location and hooked up correctly? Could the sensor and its check valve have been relocated to the other side of the engine? There are only a few check valves in the stock setup:
Last edited by Retserof; Feb 20, 2021 at 04:06 PM.
The map sensor is in the stock location and hooked up correctly. The vacuum line isnt very long 4-6 inches from its location to the back.
all of the vacuum lines that run under the UIM are also connected in the right place. So that leaves the MAP sensor
and
this nipple that it is connected to in question.
Also, filled the tank with fresh gas and it seemed to startup nicely with much less smoke for about 10-15 minutes. Then it came back. I didn’t know the condition of the previous fuel or premix, so wanted to see what this would do.
In my vacuum hose routing diagram, #15 is the MAP sensor's air filter - make sure your MAP sensor line has an filter, correctly oriented. I couldn't see it in your pictures. I hope it is not the unconnected black thing on your mystery hose, but it might be.
The best I can tell, your mystery hose that runs from a nipple on the back of the upper intake manifold near the throttle body should go to check valve #36 and then to a hard line that connects to solenoid valves #28 and 29. However, there is another nipple nearby on the back of UIM near the TB that does not have a check valve. Its hose connects directly to a hard line that runs to solenoid valve #27.
Last edited by Retserof; Feb 20, 2021 at 06:14 PM.
Did you check for oil blow by (as discussed above)?
Where is the smoke coming from?
Better find out before it becomes fire.
That unknown line might be for the fuel pressure regulator. Seems to be pointing in that direction.
The FPR needs vacuum to stay open. Without vacuum it closes and increases the fuel pressure to the injectors.
So you will be running too rich and the ecu will not likely know to compensate.
I did not connect an in-line filter from the map to the UIM. So after trying to verify that the FPR is connected ( hopefully I can do that with the manifold on) I will take the “unknown line” and take the black filter to put it inline with the MAP and UIM.
to verify the blow by. Do I check that with the car on and disconnect the top intake hose to the Intercooler?
the smoke comes from the exhaust, but if I look closely, I can see little smoke coming from around the y pipe general area.
In my vacuum hose routing diagram, #15 is the MAP sensor's air filter - make sure your MAP sensor line has an filter, correctly oriented. I couldn't see it in your pictures. I hope it is not the unconnected black thing on your mystery hose, but it might be.
The best I can tell, your mystery hose that runs from a nipple on the back of the upper intake manifold near the throttle body should go to check valve #36 and then to a hard line that connects to solenoid valves #28 and 29. However, there is another nipple nearby on the back of UIM near the TB that does not have a check valve. Its hose connects directly to a hard line that runs to solenoid valve #27.
My MAP connection doesn’t have a filter inline. As mentioned in the previous post I will likely steal it from the unknown line as mentioned that it was a filter and correct it.
I am nearly positive that I followed all of the lines from below the UIM to connect to the back. But can double and triple check.
Just got the car and had only ran it at idle, so never added anything to the 1/2 of a quarter tank.
so was hoping there was too much premix in the tank that was messing with things. When I added 6.5 gallons the car seemed to act a bit better . In terms of idling startup
How old was the gas in the tank? Is there any in-tank corrosion evident? What is condition of the filter "sock" in the tank?
Have a plan to check the fuel filter. Unfortunately it is a bit of an involved process (and so is ignored by owners).
Have the fuel pressure checked. This can be done near the throttle body. Plan to upgrade the fuel pump.
Make sure the lines are properly secured after checking. (fire hazard).
You might be able to use a mirror to check the fpr connections deep behind the uim and against the firewall.
I think the fpr line should connect to a solenoid. This solenoid would turn the vacuum off in response to the ecu, when the ecu thinks higher fuel pressure is needed (which is not that often).
There is a fuel pulsation damper and the fpr. They reside at opposite ends of the fuel rail(s). They look similar.
The smoke from the exhaust is what colour?
Black means running rich. White means creating water vapour from coolant. This will smell sweet.
Blue means burning oil.
There could be steam and and oil burning at start up do to condensation and the fact that the engine starts by squirting some oil into the cumbustion chamber (as lubricant).
But everything should settle down once the car is warmed up.
If not there is more likely a bigger problem.
A compression test will indicate if there are any problems with seals.
Coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant is also bad news.
Exhaust bubbling in the coolant is also bad news.
There are a number of basic checks you should do early in ownership of an aged FD.