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Removed UIM and replaced - Now IDLES at 4000RPM - Won't Drop!

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Old May 29, 2004 | 01:56 PM
  #1  
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Removed UIM and replaced - Now IDLES at 4000RPM - Won't Drop!

I am thinking maybe I misplaced a vac line or something?

The car IDLES at 4000rpm, and won't drop.

I disconnected the throttle cable, so it's just sitting there, idling at 4000rpm.

I just removed the UIM and replaced it after looking for loose electrical connections.

Did I miss something?
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Old May 29, 2004 | 02:04 PM
  #2  
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From: Where there's only two seasons, hot and wet! I love Okinawa
you definitely have a large vacuum leak after the TB. Check the Brake booster line. Also I would double check all the gaskets.

I had this happen to me once and when I pulled the UIM off, I found that there was a stray ground wire that lodged itself between the UIM and the LIM and caused me to idle high.
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Old May 29, 2004 | 02:06 PM
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hrmm now I got a bolt that's stripped, but it wasn't causing this idle before. I could re-thread the bolt and put a new one in. But... a swapped vac line wouldn't cause this?
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Old May 29, 2004 | 02:09 PM
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From: Where there's only two seasons, hot and wet! I love Okinawa
Nope. Vacuum lines all use the same source. Doesn't matter where the line goes....just as long as it is goes after the turbo.
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Old May 29, 2004 | 02:14 PM
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From: Marco Island, FL
Is your ISC fully opened?
Did you remove the AWS or EGR and forget to block them off?
If you removed your AWS did you put a resistor in the unused electrical connector?
Did you remove the air bleed screw from your TB?
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Old May 29, 2004 | 02:16 PM
  #6  
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From: Avondale, AZ
ISC?

And now I did not remove anything aside from taking of the UIM which i've done a million times, and putting it back.

The idle adjustment screw hasn't been touched at all... and the electrical connector on the TB is still in place.

Like I had asked before, could this be a vac line?
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Old May 29, 2004 | 06:22 PM
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From: Dove le cose sono fatte il vecchio moda il senso
Check your throttle cable as it might be pinched.
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Old May 29, 2004 | 06:29 PM
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Throttle cable wasn't even connected to the TB when it was idling high.

I dont know what the deal was... but i removed everything all over again, checked all connections, and now it's working fine. I think it may have been the line with the pill on the back of the manifold closest to the TB. Appreciate the help, thanks guys.
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Old May 29, 2004 | 06:37 PM
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Next time spray carb cleaner at the gaskets you'll know right away if you have a vac leak.

X...
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Old May 29, 2004 | 06:43 PM
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i had that problem before. i had something in the way of the manifold, so it wasn't seating all the way. it'd idle at 3500-4000 and wouldn't come down. double check to make sure everything is seated okay
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Old May 29, 2004 | 11:28 PM
  #11  
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From: Marco Island, FL
The AWS is on the underside of the UIM. I think it has a green electrical connector. If it's disconnected, your ISC (Idle Speed Controller) will go wide open.
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Old May 29, 2004 | 11:34 PM
  #12  
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From: Hawaii
that happened to me right after i replaced my fpd, turns out i cracked my UIM... luckly i have a friend which can weld alluminum good

in anycase you do have a vac leak after the throttle body. use some starter fluid and spray the suspected parts (have a trusty fire extinguisher ready as well, i had a flare up myself the last time i checked for leaks) and if idle changes, you found the leak.

here are some pics of my uim crack http://community.webshots.com/album/141113758pAufKm

on another note: if it was just a 4mm vac hose which popped off, idle would only have went up a little bit (about 500rpm-1k rpm) when my uim cracked and i pulled out a 4mm vac hose, it would idle at 3.5k, bouncing from 1.5k-3.5k


good luck

Last edited by skunks; May 29, 2004 at 11:37 PM.
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Old May 29, 2004 | 11:36 PM
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Originally posted by skunks
that happened to me right after i replaced my fpd, turns out i cracked my UIM... luckly i have a friend which can weld alluminum good

in anycase you do have a vac leak after the throttle body. use some starter fluid and spray the suspected parts (have a trusty fire extinguisher ready as well, i had a flare up myself the last time i checked for leaks) and if idle changes, you found the leak.

here are some pics of my uim crack http://community.webshots.com/album/141113758pAufKm
wow, my old manifold looks just like that. i didn't want to risk it not getting repaired right, so i jut bought another one. anyone want a slightly damaged uim?
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Old May 29, 2004 | 11:42 PM
  #14  
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Originally posted by spoolin93r1
wow, my old manifold looks just like that. i didn't want to risk it not getting repaired right, so i jut bought another one. anyone want a slightly damaged uim?
do you know why your's cracked? mines cracked because the stupid screw under the TB did not line up correctly and i jsut cranked it down. its ok though i got it fixed. on another note, if yours is cracked, you must tig weld it with special aluminum rods, you cant use a mig becuase it will just crack off and fall in to your engine and blow your motor... you must make sure it has good penetration as well or again it will fall off and pop your apex seal!
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Old May 30, 2004 | 12:11 AM
  #15  
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From: Salem, IN
that's what happened to mine. i wasn't paying attention and the bolt was stopped under the front of it. i thought it was all good and started cranking down on the mounting bolts. i am probably just going to sell the old one or give it to someone. i don't need to keep it around
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