Hyperite

OKAY! I finally got that POS bolt off, used a grinder to get it down to 13mm and jammed a socket on there, came right off w/ a breaker bar. Now, here's some pictures....do i just take off the rear cover and the flapper and port the red part? Should I get the blue too? Dunno if that would help anything at all, but i've got the turbos off.... You can see some cracks where the black arrows are, but they're not too bad. Also should i try to clean these things up at all? The blades of the primary turbo has a bit of carbon on 'em, should i spray some carb cleaner in the assembly? Thanks guys.

Hyperite

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Hyperite

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Bacon

iTrader: (12)

well thats not the waste gate ur lookin at right there, the waste gate is what i think u were originaly tryin to port right??
if it is what u have to do is seperate the front turbo from the manifold(the one that connects them to the dp) and ull see the wg, then take the c clip off take a pencil and trace around the flapper, then wire the flapper open and go to it...

your pic is of the precontrol flapper if i remember right(the car was seq for 3 months of me owning it, so im not the best with the seq system) you can port all that **** if u want...porting the ex manifold will prob help u spool a bit 2, just chamfer the edges...(smooth roll) it makes a huge difference in flow...when u port hink of it like water was gonna flow over it then just imagin how little bumps and stuff would affect the flow..u want it nice and smooth....

Hyperite

Damnit, are you sure? Someone told me i didn't need to unbolt the turbos to port the WG. Is it the thing in THIS picture? On a side note, the flapper for the thing in the first picture moves smoothly and snaps back into positiong...the thing in this picture is a little more (SLIGHTLY) difficult to move and doesn't seem like it has a spring in it...normal? I should probably lube it up, i guess....

Want2race

Thats the wastegate

Bacon

iTrader: (12)

THANK YOU!...ive been tryin to find a pic for a while...thanks you..

unbolting tht turbo is cake

un do the coolant and oil lines to it(just the front turbo)( replace copper crush washers) then theres 5 12mm i think dont quote me on that..soak the fockers with penitrating lube...and if possible use a impact gun..keep the setting low and work up..this way u dont snap a stud..their real strong studs but u never know....if not a box end wrench 6point DONT USE 12 points unless u have to its a good way to strip a nut...

len

Hyperite

Another Q for y'all who have removed your turbos. Was the inside white? Inside the passages of the turbos and on the exhaust manifold is a light white coating. I know white means lean, but my A/F guage reads rich (i know, unreliable), I get a black puff at redline shift with a nice backfire (dunno if it flames or not), and the inside of my exhaust pipes is crazy black, even if i clean it it turns black in like 10 minutes of driving. Sound Ok?
~Tom

jbontke

Don't forget mark a spot to keep the turbos clocked. Once you unbolt the screws the housing will spin in either direction. Having a mark accross them will help you when you put them back together.

As for that center section, I cut it out completely. I ground the manifold so that it flows evenly to the exhaust turbines. It is just a big restriction.

Bacon

iTrader: (12)

my insides were white all the way into the begnin of dp...in pistons its a sign of running lean...our exhaust temps are abt 3x higher than theres....ive been told its normal

Hyperite

I didn't mark anything, i didn't actually unbolt it to the point where i disconnected turbines and stuff. Just finished grinding it out, i hope i got it big enough....added about 1/4" to the diameter. Thanks Bacon, made me feel a lot better.
~Tom

Bacon

iTrader: (12)

yea seein all that white residue i was like...ummm.. that cant be good, but everone i talked to said it was normal..especialy if u moded and run it hard