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What else do I need to build a dual oilcooler setup

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Old Nov 22, 2006 | 02:14 PM
  #51  
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Exactly. Imagine this piece of aluminum is the cooler. Still have to work everything out but thats the basic idea.

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Old Nov 23, 2006 | 02:52 AM
  #52  
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From: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
Originally Posted by spoolin1012
Also I want to make sure I got the adapters right for the block: 18x1.5. Also what degree are the fittings on the oil coolers if im i have the fitting on top. I have there 150 degrees. Will that work or with the 120 degree be better.

9919ffkerl- 10 AN to 18mm 1.5 adapter x 2
Yes, you need a crush washer. http://www.holley.com/9919FFHERL.asp You can reuse the copper one if you boil it to expand it back.

I used both a 150 towards the center of the car and a 120 towards the outer but that was just my preference. I did not test if 180's would work because I didn't want the hose so close to the cooler.

I will be rediong mine later on with all black fittings and braided nylon hose (hate SS braided). I will be black and blue (no red) but i'm going for a sleeper look. I like Earls the best for easy fitment but will be going with Russell next time around. I don't like Aeroqip (will sell those). click for adapter brand choices
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Old Nov 24, 2006 | 11:18 PM
  #53  
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Well i am also starting my new oil cooler setup, but i have a big hole that i have to fill with a oil cooler.

I will be using the
Extra Wide Earl 10AN (81910ERL) 169.39 X 2 =338.78
Earls Oil Thermostat (501ERL) 93.99
Earls Steel Line 10AN 20Ft (EAR-320010ERL) 137.95 < Is 20ft to much?
10 Misc 10AN Fitting $XX.XX Dont have a total yet, around 100.00
2 Metric Adapters (FCM2245) 8.82 x 2 =17.64

Ruff Total 688.36

And this isnt even a drop in the bucket, i just bought a 1300 dollar rebuild kit, New front mount intercooler to fill my other monster hole. New Electric Water pump, Greddy Rear Diff sump, 1300cc injectos x 2,

Now i am in the need of tires and rims O **** i dont think anyone is getting christmas gifts from me






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Old Nov 25, 2006 | 01:38 PM
  #54  
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From: Portland OR
25 row fitment

Originally Posted by rynberg
The hottest I've ever seen in street driving with my RE dual 25-rows is about 200-205F...
How is fitment for 25 row coolers?

I have a 93 touring, and am planning a double cooler setup.
The front bumper is stock ( no bumper reinforcement however,
as it has a FMIC)

AutoX on hot days really needs more oil cooling.
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Old Nov 27, 2006 | 12:20 AM
  #55  
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From: Portland OR
Originally Posted by jkstill
How is fitment for 25 row coolers?
It looks like the parking lights are attached to the top of the oil coolers.

I have not yet taken the bumper off, just looking below the headlights.

So, do the lights need to be removed to fit a 25 row cooler?
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Old Nov 27, 2006 | 10:27 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Rx7_Nut13B
Earls Oil Thermostat (501ERL) 93.99

I recommend NOT using the Earls t-stat, the Mocal one is much better.

Originally Posted by jkstill
How is fitment for 25 row coolers?
The bottom of the coolers is pretty much jammed up against the bottom of the oil cooler undertrays (with the RE kit). There is plenty of clearance up top, you don't need to remove lights, LOL.
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Old Nov 27, 2006 | 02:12 PM
  #57  
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could someone touch on the topic of adding a oil temp/press guage to a dual oil cooler setup?

someone mentioned the earl's t-stat provides for that but i can't find that one, besides rynberg doesn't like it.

also, does anyone have an answer to the hose question regarding how much you need?
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Old Nov 27, 2006 | 02:18 PM
  #58  
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From: Kansas City, MO
Originally Posted by airborne
could someone touch on the topic of adding a oil temp/press guage to a dual oil cooler setup?
You can add a sensor at the oil filter pedestal either by:

1. Using an aftermarket pedestal
2. Drilling and tapping the banjo bolt
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Old Nov 27, 2006 | 02:42 PM
  #59  
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I recommend using an aftermarket pedestal (I have the Greddy). Even though it makes changing the filter a PITA, it makes for a good and clean sensor install

I do NOT recommend drilling and tapping the banjo bolt. It may work with some sensors, but it does not work the Defi sensor (and probably others as well).
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Old Nov 27, 2006 | 03:23 PM
  #60  
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Can you add both sensors there?

also, source for said pedestal? tried rx7store, rx7.com, pettit, gotham...
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Old Nov 27, 2006 | 03:30 PM
  #61  
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The ReSpeed replacement has two spots for aftermarket sensors (which is what I'm using):

ReSpeed Pedestal

However, it looks like they are out of stock at the moment.
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Old Nov 27, 2006 | 03:39 PM
  #62  
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Thanks, i bookmarked it and will just have to check back periodically.

are the 1/8 npt ports compatible with the hardware most gauges include? or do you need an adapter from HDR?
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Old Nov 27, 2006 | 04:01 PM
  #63  
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From: San Lorenzo, California
Originally Posted by airborne
Can you add both sensors there?

also, source for said pedestal? tried rx7store, rx7.com, pettit, gotham...
Yes, and most gauges use the 1/8" NPT that the Greddy offers. Any of the vendors carries this part, you just have to call.
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Old Nov 28, 2006 | 12:21 PM
  #64  
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From: Portland OR
Originally Posted by rynberg
I recommend NOT using the Earls t-stat, the Mocal one is much better.
Any particular reason for that statement?

Comparison tests of Mocal vs. Earl's?

High failure rate?
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Old Nov 28, 2006 | 12:25 PM
  #65  
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Aeroquip socketless hose

Originally Posted by dubulup

Aeroquip Socketless Hose
FBV1000
$3.51 ea. x20ft $70.20


Using the AQP hose not only reduces cost, ease of assembly increases while the tools required drops to almost nothing.
Who here has used the Aeroquip socketless hose?

Care to share your thoughts on it?

Ease of installation, reliability, etc?
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Old Nov 28, 2006 | 01:11 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by jkstill
Any particular reason for that statement?

Comparison tests of Mocal vs. Earl's?

High failure rate?
Hmm...looks like Earl's has a new oil t-stat now. The old one did not use AN fittings! I don't know why they use female fittings instead of male like the Mocal though?
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Old Nov 28, 2006 | 01:27 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by jkstill
Who here has used the Aeroquip socketless hose?

Care to share your thoughts on it?

Ease of installation, reliability, etc?
I'll let you know once I complete my install and use it for tens of thousands of miles

Silvr94r2 used similar hose (if not the same)...this is where I got the idea

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/couple-new-pics-my-car-268643/
^here are some pictures
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Old Nov 28, 2006 | 01:29 PM
  #68  
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^^^ That is one thick oil cooler



Random question: do you really need AN wrenches? Or are there really close metric equivalents?

also, did anyone see the mocal lightweight hose? $14/ft! Compared to the aeroquip stainless braided hose for $6/ft.
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Old Nov 28, 2006 | 01:36 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by airborne
Random question: do you really need AN wrenches? Or are there really close metric equivalents?
No, but they do help you from tearing up the fitting (and they really help when tightening in cramped spaces). I purchased one when I did my AN fittings and was glad I did.

Originally Posted by airborne
also, did anyone see the mocal lightweight hose? $14/ft! Compared to the aeroquip stainless braided hose for $6/ft.
Surprisingly, the SS lines are fairly heavy (for what they are) so I'm not surprised to see a "lightweight" hose offered for the racers. I don't think it would be useful unless you are building a race car where every pound counts.
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Old Nov 28, 2006 | 01:41 PM
  #70  
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I was surprised the AN wrenches from aeroquip didn't close up another side, like a pipe wrench. I have 4 or 5 metric size pipe wrenches, about what is AN10 similar to mm wise?

Just looking back over this thread I have to offer a well deserved thanks to everyone who pitched in with useful info. This is great, i hope to have pics and experiences to add to it in the next month or so.
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Old Nov 28, 2006 | 01:49 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by airborne
I was surprised the AN wrenches from aeroquip didn't close up another side, like a pipe wrench. I have 4 or 5 metric size pipe wrenches, about what is AN10 similar to mm wise?
I forgot the conversion, but I'm thinking it was around a 20mm wrench (and I also used an adjustable/monkey wrench) that was needed. That was the problem as the size of the wrench needed didn't fit well with the area was I installing in. The smaller profile AN wrench was just fine.

Unless you have dealt with creating AN lines before, I would recommend going with something else as they can be a pain.
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Old Nov 28, 2006 | 02:29 PM
  #72  
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I was looking at the socketless hoses, it sounds sweet. Just push it on to a barbed fitting? No clamp even. Good for 250psi supposedly. sounds almost too good.
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Old Nov 28, 2006 | 02:37 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by airborne
I was looking at the socketless hoses, it sounds sweet. Just push it on to a barbed fitting? No clamp even. Good for 250psi supposedly. sounds almost too good.
Yes, it does almost sound too good to be true.

Which is why I'm asking.
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Old Nov 28, 2006 | 02:56 PM
  #74  
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I don't consider 200 psi adequate in an oil line with these cars.

AN are English units, guys. I do recommend purchasing AN wrenches, but you can get by with english wrenches, as long as you don't overtorque the fittings (VERY important!). AN-10 is 1". http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/anwrench.htm
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Old Nov 28, 2006 | 03:11 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by rynberg
I don't consider 200 psi adequate in an oil line with these cars.
AQP hose

Lightweight

Maximum Operating Pressure - 250 psi, over 300F

I think 227% of working pressure will be fine...just no bling factor
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