What else do I need to build a dual oilcooler setup
 

This is the list so far. I am not sure if im going with a thermostat because it adds about 120 bucks to the cost or building. Also I want to make sure I got the adapters right for the block: 18x1.5. Also what degree are the fittings on the oil coolers if im i have the fitting on top. I have there 150 degrees. Will that work or with the 120 degree be better.

21900erl - 19 Row Oil Cooler x 2
400100erl- 10 PeformOFlex Per Ft. 20 ft
585110erl- 10 adapter fitting for cooler x 4
809110 erl- 10 90 Degree tub swivel seal x 2
815010 erl- 10 150 degree swivelseal x 4
9919ffkerl- 10 AN to 18mm 1.5 adapter x 2

Will that do?

You absolutely should run a thermostat....my oil temps border on too cold WITH a thermostat (I have dual 25-row coolers).

Also, IMO, 19-row is probably a bit on the small side if they will not be ducted. If you are building from scratch, I would go with 25-row coolers.

Also, your part numbers indicate "narrow" Earls coolers. Those aren't big enough, you should use the "wide" coolers (model numbers beginning with 4).

You most definitely do not want to use 120-deg fittings, it's too shallow.

Yeah, my oil temps when highway cruising in ~70F weather are 140F with a thermostat. They would be way too cold without one.

I think I have a 120 degree fitting at the oil filter pedestal. There are two straight fittings on the rear side of the thermostat. The rest of the fittings are all 90s. Here's my web page about the CWR kit:
http://maxcooper.com/rx7/parts_info/...lers/index.htm

-Max

Max, he is trying to orient the coolers with the fittings up, so the 90-degs won't work...:)

Thanks a lot for your responses.
The reason why I choose the 19 row becuase they are going to be ducted, im pretty good with fiberglass and i have an idea how to make it.

Also as for the thermostat, I live in miami and the car is street driven every day. With the temps here in miami i didn't think i would worry about it getting too cold, it almost never gets cool. But now I'll consider the thermo a little more.

And for the fittings on the block will thost be 90* or 120*.

Thanks again.

Miami or not, you should definitely run a t-stat.

True story...even twin 19-rows will be enough to over-cool the oil when its 60-65F outside there in January.

Living in New Orleans, I can tell you a thermostat is needed. It's $89.99 ffrom Racer Wholesale.

Jack

Mocal 19 Row -10 AN Oil Coolers $139x2

-10 AN stainless $109.95 (20 feet)

Fittings $69.99

Mocal Oil Thermostat $89.99

Russell M18X1.5 AN Adpater $4.89X2

I need to add a thermostat to mine. Been blocking the passenger during the night.

Just wondering if someone has info on the proper way to cut these stainless steel braided lines. When I lost my last engine the line popped off at the fitting.

You can use bolt cutters. I used craftsman scissors that use a razor blade and then the bottom part is flat metal. You can get a cheaper replica from harbor frieght tools (in an ugly bright orange). After that I used a dremel and a stone to grind off any threads that poked outwards.

To put the fittings on I used teflon tape wraped once on the edge and then some mm oil over that to slip it in easily.

There's nothing wrong with dual 19rows. I have a 2nd 25row for the passenger side and it's very big. I may not even hook up the second cooler. I don't see it being needed except for track only car.

Another thing to add on your list is an oil temperature gauge.

Jack

And adapter with ports for oil pressure and temperature.

what do you mean an "adapter?"

You'll need one of
these or one of these .

If you go with an earl's oil thermostat it has 3 1/8" NPT ports, perfect for oil temp and pressure. No need for adaptors or extra fittings that way.

We should make a sticky of this thread for people who want to upgrade their oil cooler! Good info!

for the 18mm X 1.5 fittings on the oil pedestal and front cover are crush washers needed?

TIA

Tape off where you're going to cut with electrical tape and use a cut off wheel or a hacksaw.
I purchased the Gotham duel oil cooler kit from a member and would like to know how you guys mount them. I know you have to fab brackets, how do they look?
Just noticed this is an old thread. Question still stands though......anyone?

Gotham now sells the bracket kit if you are interested. Not sure the specs on it.

Thanks bro! Will give them a call.

Here is my parts list for an Aeroquip/Mocal dual oil cooler set-up from Racer Parts Wholesale
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com

Aeroquip Socketless Hose
FBV1000
$3.51 ea. x20ft $70.20

FCM1514 (used for the back of the T-stat)
-10 St. Hose End
$5.65 ea. x2 $11.30

FCM1534
-10 90 Hose End (1x-front cover, 2x-t-stat, 4x-coolers)
$18.77 ea. x7 $131.39

FCM1544 (used off the oil pedestal)
-10 120 Hose End
$21.17 ea. x1 $21.17

adapter (front cover and oil pedestal)
FCM2245 metric adapter -10AN to 18mm X 1.5
$8.82 ea. x2 $17.64

MOC25210 (25 Row)
Mocal Cooler
$189.05 ea. x2 $378.10

MOCAL Theromostat (180 degree)
MOC10AN
$89.99 ea. x1 $89.99

GRAND TOTAL = $720 (just need to fab mounting brackets (or use the ones Mocal sells $25ea. x 4) and no ducts required with coolers this size)
Using the AQP hose not only reduces cost, ease of assembly increases while the tools required drops to almost nothing.

Another reason I choose to go with an oil cooler set-up of this size...I use a SMIC, which sits on top of my radiator. Oil cooling can account for as much as 40+% of rotary engine cooling...if my coolant doesn't have to dump as much heat, my poor SMIC won't get soaked as much.

Could anyone please draw a pic of where you would put the T-Stat in all these. All i know is that the oil from the oil pan will go to the oil cooler 1 and then to oil cooler 2 before it goes to the oil filter so basically its a loop but where does the T-Stat come in to play? And how would you go about making it work?

You put the t-stat in the line between the pan outlet and the first cooler.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y28...alclrTstat.jpg

there isn't a pan outlet...it's actually on the front cover.

the purple arrow is the path when the oil isn't up to temp.