Could you use a clamp anyway? Just so its easier to sleep at night.

 

I've read only bad reports about the clamps...(the tool is rather expensive, iirc)

The reports are of hoses tearing under the barbed rib, due to improper use of the tool and improper placement of the band. Even when I talked to Silvr94r2, he said the bands weren't necessary (the shop he deals with builds some wicked fast cars). As you can see though, he did use clamps, but his car isn't running as of yet.

if anyone has success with the clamps please chime in


The real expensive tool (I've seen in aircraft wire harness fab - $1000+ for EMI shielding) by band-it had to be certified every 6 months but wasn't clamped on a large ribbed area like a barb.

 

Does anyone know which side of the stock oil cooler, the line from the front cover goes to? I'm doing braided line, but I forgot which side is which and don't have my stock lines anymore.

 

I don't like steel braided lines. They are not needed. You can get nylon braided that handle more heat and have the same 350psi burst strength. I don't beleive we go over 100psi.

Sorry I don't remember the OEM thermastat but this may help (others):
Spring side = Send to oil cooler (from front cover)
Rod side = Return to block (via oil filter)

 

You are very wrong. At redline, the oil pressure should be in the 100-120 psi range. Spiking above this may and does occur, especially when jumping on the throttle when the engine oil is cooler.

 

Googling for ( aeroquip socketless hose review ) turns up a few hits.

One good discussion here:
http://forums.atlasf1.com/showthread.php?threadid=90374

It seems fairly common to use the socketless hose in high pressure fuel and oil systems.

I just spoke with a friend this evening that has used it for high pressure fuel lines, he tought it worked well - no leaks.

 

I haven't even looked at the connections on the engine side, but can you attach the socketless hose ends to the fittings there? I have no idea if they're male/female or what, but all the hose ends on the website are female that I see.

 

You would have to change the connections on the engine side. The engine side basically used banjo bolts so you would need an adapter instead. I didn't want to change the stock banjo setup so I had some custom lines made to go from the banjos to AN fittings.

 

I can't tell from the pics I have, is that how all the kits do it as well? Custom lines?

whats your plan dubulup?

 

most kits use these
These need either a crush washer or an o-ring...not sure which I'll use yet. I used an o-ring on the turbo feed line for the last two years with no issues.

 

That was on the first page. This project seems too simple.

 

^it is. Some of my parts are on back order...should ship by Friday.

You are using a single cooler correct? Are you finished with your radiator project?

 

Its moving along. I got a picture from rallimike, the forum member who's setup I'm basing mine from -he shouldn't mind me posting it. here it goes, those are oil coolers on the bottom. The IC behind them, 2 custom griffin rads where the oil coolers are stock and then the AC condenser is laid flat...somewhere.




I'm doing it with a stock front end and rads from an R6 bike.


Oh, and I may end up using 2 coolers. rallimike couldn't find one in the size he wanted -wide enough i imagine- which is why he used two.

 

Looks like a pretty neat set-up!

The FC cooler is pretty beast! Might have a look into that...which includes a T-stat. Malloy might be able to source rather cheap?!?!

 

I flipped through dozens of pages of oil coolers at summit without much luck finding one ridiculously wide and 6-8in tall.

The only thing I know about the OCs in that setup is that they're Setrabs.

 

I know this doesn't give a good size, but I can't find a real picture

 

2nd gen thread

Stock Oil cooler dimensions
Length (including endtanks) 22.5"
Length (core only) 19.75"
Height 4.5"
Width 2"

The fittings may be -12 AN, there is a parts list there that lists reducers.

oh, and why the hell did they come with such a huge cooler?

 

I've done the same. I was concerned about using a crush washer since my adaptor is aluminum and I was concerned I may strip it when torqued. A rubber o-ring has sealed fine for a couple years now and doesn't require near as much torque on the fitting.

 

the question is...why did the FD come with such a small cooler?!? Weight maybe? I was blown away the first time I saw the FC cooler.
good to know...thanks

 

Just wanted to update you on the pedestals. Should be ready to ship in a week to week and a half. Yes, the tapped ports will accept any 1/8th NPT guage fitting.

-billy

 

^good news!

just wanted to show some dirty install pics...I finally got some parts, and began the install...I only made three mounts (make all six for $20 in parts...which brings my total to $760) It's pretty study with enough bounce/give.

Although, I will have to change the (4) 90's on the coolers for 180's (which is a big change in loot) and I'll probably take DamonB's advice and move the left (outside) fitting(s) on the cooler to the bottom on the side, which will run to the driveside cooler.

I thought I'd be able to mount the cooler upside down, but I forgot to take into account the park lamps.



here is the outside mount (you can see the cooler slants a little back)



Then two on the inside



with the bumper



even though you can see only about a 1/3 of the rows thru the duct...there isn't much room for air to get around the cooler once inside. I'm excited.

jeeze my car looks filthy...I'll have to show some detailed pics once I finish the project.

 

dubulup, you won't want 180-deg fittings either.....try 135-deg fittings....

 

I hoped, you'd chime in and tell me if I was doing something wrong.

Thanks for the tip!

 

I used 120 degree hose ends for mine. But yea 180 might be a little extreme for what you need.

 

I love this thread, cant wait to build my duel oil cooler setup this winter