what do you think its worth?
#1
r1rx7girl
Thread Starter
what do you think its worth?
not that I am selling it or thinking about selling it... I love my car, but I am just curious, its not like I can just go to kbb.com or nada and punch it in and be like ok 11,500 for a modded '93 R1 ... so just out of curiosity what do you think my car is worth?
here are some things that would affect the pricing:
1993 R1 96,000 on chassis
20k on new motor built by BNR
agressive street port
3mm seals
hi-flow cat-back N1 exhaust
c-west headlights
feed rear spoiler
scoote hood
blitz FMIC
greddy T-78 kit
PFC
volk GTP wheels w/bf goodrich g-force tires
hks twin power
koni adjustable coil overs
kirk racing roll cage
550cc prim/1600cc sec.
nippondenso competition fuel pump
corbeau racing seats
battery re-loc. kit
fluidyne radiator
invader side and rear skirts
polished(upper intake plenum)
polished(lower intake plenum)
greddy elbow (not installed in pics. for fitting purposes)
greddy profec B
apexi turbo timer
etc. etc. just of the top of my head
here are some things that would affect the pricing:
1993 R1 96,000 on chassis
20k on new motor built by BNR
agressive street port
3mm seals
hi-flow cat-back N1 exhaust
c-west headlights
feed rear spoiler
scoote hood
blitz FMIC
greddy T-78 kit
PFC
volk GTP wheels w/bf goodrich g-force tires
hks twin power
koni adjustable coil overs
kirk racing roll cage
550cc prim/1600cc sec.
nippondenso competition fuel pump
corbeau racing seats
battery re-loc. kit
fluidyne radiator
invader side and rear skirts
polished(upper intake plenum)
polished(lower intake plenum)
greddy elbow (not installed in pics. for fitting purposes)
greddy profec B
apexi turbo timer
etc. etc. just of the top of my head
#3
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Yep, somewhere in the 20k range. In general, here's how I price FD's -
Sub-$10k - Blown motors, salvage titles, accident victims, etc. Total project car territory.
$10k - Running, driving car, lots of mileage, rough paint, rough interior, maybe some accident history, maybe some minor mechanical faults, stock/near stock or not that well modified (ie, hacked up mods that aren't done well, car isn't making proper power, etc.)
$15k - Clean car, good mechanical shape, good paint and interior, stock or light mods, reasonable mileage. Or could be very modded car with some rough spots (body mods incomplete, single turbo installed but not tuned, etc.)
$20k+ - ultra-low-mileage stock cars that are mint and big mod show cars. For this price range, expect flawless everything, quality workmanship, and real results.
Your car definitely looks clean in the pics, but not a lot of interior pics - that's where a lot of FD's lose style points. People beat up FD interiors pretty bad.
Also, the radiator cap on the thermostat housing - that's an FC radiator cap pedastal with a pretty goofy looking cap on the overflow nipple. Get the FD aluminum pedastal that doesn't have the overflow nipple since you're running an AST. It's minor, but everything else in the engine bay is so clean, that stands out bigtime.
Dale
Sub-$10k - Blown motors, salvage titles, accident victims, etc. Total project car territory.
$10k - Running, driving car, lots of mileage, rough paint, rough interior, maybe some accident history, maybe some minor mechanical faults, stock/near stock or not that well modified (ie, hacked up mods that aren't done well, car isn't making proper power, etc.)
$15k - Clean car, good mechanical shape, good paint and interior, stock or light mods, reasonable mileage. Or could be very modded car with some rough spots (body mods incomplete, single turbo installed but not tuned, etc.)
$20k+ - ultra-low-mileage stock cars that are mint and big mod show cars. For this price range, expect flawless everything, quality workmanship, and real results.
Your car definitely looks clean in the pics, but not a lot of interior pics - that's where a lot of FD's lose style points. People beat up FD interiors pretty bad.
Also, the radiator cap on the thermostat housing - that's an FC radiator cap pedastal with a pretty goofy looking cap on the overflow nipple. Get the FD aluminum pedastal that doesn't have the overflow nipple since you're running an AST. It's minor, but everything else in the engine bay is so clean, that stands out bigtime.
Dale
#4
r1rx7girl
Thread Starter
thanks for the replies, good pricing method BTW. I dont have many interior pics. the only thing different than stock is the cd player, the door speakers, battery in the bin and disc changer in the bin and the seats and shifter and the a-pillar gauges, nothing gaudy or crazy, but you know how the '93 interior was, the surface scratches very easily, so around my cd player is kinda scratched up and around the climate controls knda scratchy but other than that nothing is broken or scratched or missing, its all there in good shape, but I am getting down to the little things and those are going to be replaced.
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#9
Rotary Turbo
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Ontario, California
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If you are looking towards the maximum profit that you could get, turning the car back into its stock form (if possible) then parting out everything else would have you at around $30k.
#10
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (14)
Originally Posted by r1rx7girl
here are some things that would affect the pricing:
1993 R1 96,000 on chassis
<rest of list deleted>
1993 R1 96,000 on chassis
<rest of list deleted>
Blue book says $16k in excellent condition, which is about right for such high miles. For $20k+ the car better have an LS1, a 20B or less than 20k chassis miles and be in showroom condition.
Part out the mods and you will make a reasonable amount of money.
#11
Rotary Turbo
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You are basing the blue book value around California, which has a majority of the FDs in the US. I am pretty sure locations, with a very limited number of FDs, would not mind paying an extra $5k+ for an FD with a newer motor installed in it. But then again, I am pretty sure Florida has a good number of FDs as well.
#12
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (14)
Originally Posted by IMPACT 7
But then again, I am pretty sure Florida has a good number of FDs as well.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-general-discussion-322/registered-fd-s-state-536441/
Regional variations are not substantial for blue book values, which is why I just pecked in California.
#13
r1rx7girl
Thread Starter
hey trispeedfd3s did I talk to you about that from shine auto? if not....thats wierd because thats exactly what I want to do, I am not a big fan of the invader front and rear sides anymore feed and RE look cleaner
#16
Rotary Enthusiast
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You can ask for anything you want but you could sell it in the high teens.
Originally Posted by moconnor
The only thing that influences the pricing is the first thing on your list. Mods add little or no value.
Blue book says $16k in excellent condition, which is about right for such high miles. For $20k+ the car better have an LS1, a 20B or less than 20k chassis miles and be in showroom condition.
Part out the mods and you will make a reasonable amount of money.
Blue book says $16k in excellent condition, which is about right for such high miles. For $20k+ the car better have an LS1, a 20B or less than 20k chassis miles and be in showroom condition.
Part out the mods and you will make a reasonable amount of money.
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