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With tools, you get what you pay for. Most of the time, Chinese will do, but for jobs like this you need quality tools, which aren't cheap. Do you have any tool rental companies near. A 3/4" electric impact wrench may do it (also try heating)
With tools, you get what you pay for. Most of the time, Chinese will do, but for jobs like this you need quality tools, which aren't cheap. Do you have any tool rental companies near. A 3/4" electric impact wrench may do it (also try heating)
I am really not interested in renting anything. If needed I will buy the tool!
Okay, some major updates now. I put the project to "pause" to read what you would have to advise me. There are some stupid questions but I just want to make sure!
Final setup for the flywheel nut story. It finally worked! I did not have any counterweight behind that flywheel. I think it should be there only for automatic transmissions, right?
I really thought I had a leak at the rear main seal. It is pretty dry (but I'll have to replace it because I obviously broke it when removing it).
Is it the correct way? I'm pretty sure it is...
I looked the Mazdatrix video and he doesn't seem to have that washer, just behind the counterweight. Is there supposed to be a washer there?
Side facing the engine was oily. I suppose it is normal...
Okay. Look at the scratches where the oil pump is sitting. 2 circular scratches. It was there before I rebuilt the engine and I was told by some knowledgeable that it is fine and runnable like this. I changed the parts inside the oil pump (new OEM), and everything is still in good condition.
Full of coolant when I took the tension bolts off. I would like to repeat that I did not have any coolant leak, but I had a lot of oil leaking.
I had to fight a bit more than expected to take that rear iron off. I managed to break it loose from the housing pretty decently, however it was stuck with the eccentric shaft, I had to use "some" extra force to take it out.
The arrows are pointing at some black marks, they are all at the same locations at each apex. What does it indicate? Also, there is oil all around that dowel pin. There was no oil seal around that pin. Is there supposed to be an oil seal there? If yes, could it be the main source to my oiling problem?
Nothing to mention about the rear iron.
Lots of Hylomar around...
All 3 rubber pieces are in bad shape. They were brand new when I installed them.
Lot of questions here, I'll get more in depth tomorrow.
First off, what is all that blue ****? Is that Hylomar? WAY too much of it everywhere. Almost looks like blue RTV.
What kind of gasket was on the front cover? Metal or paper?
How does the rear stationary gear bearing look?
Not sure why the corner seal plugs are all chewed up. Are they stock corner seals with the rubber OEM plugs?
Dale
Blue stuff is all Hylomar...
Front cover gasket was paper (new). Definitely still reusable.
Stock corner seals with rubber OEM plugs.
Rear stationary gear bearing... Thanks for asking! I just went to have a look. It doesn't seem right at all. One side of the bearing seems ok, the other side seems worn. How did that happen? I didn't measure anything, but the eccentric shaft visually still seems to be in perfect shape.
I will help with what i know..
3. Yes, it is the correct way
4. You are supposed to have only one "washer" .. the one on top of the torrington bearing.
5 visual marks is normal, but not if you can feel un even surface or deep scratches.
7. No coolant leak.. good
8. Most likely the shaft was hitting the stationary gear bearing.
9. I don't know..
there is a dowel pin o ring only on the top, in the rotor housing.
10. Inspect it for wear if any. If not, you are good.
11. Toooo much hylomar.. it use just to hold the water seals in place during assembling.
12. Could had been excessive heat. (Lack of lube).
Can you remove the corner seal? It looks beat the hell up around the edges.
Clean the parts and take a closer look..
Yeah that rear bearing is trashed. I'm wondering what the rest of the bearings look like.
Looks like the root of the failure was either low oil pressure or a great deal of crap in the oil system that ate the bearings. That's what I was leaning towards - the low cranking speed and not being able to idle - the motor was grinding into itself.
I will help with what i know..
3. Yes, it is the correct way
4. You are supposed to have only one "washer" .. the one on top of the torrington bearing.
5 visual marks is normal, but not if you can feel un even surface or deep scratches.
7. No coolant leak.. good
8. Most likely the shaft was hitting the stationary gear bearing.
9. I don't know..
there is a dowel pin o ring only on the top, in the rotor housing.
10. Inspect it for wear if any. If not, you are good.
11. Toooo much hylomar.. it use just to hold the water seals in place during assembling. 12. Could had been excessive heat. (Lack of lube).
Can you remove the corner seal? It looks beat the hell up around the edges.
Clean the parts and take a closer look..
I'll have to triple check the washers during reassembly.
Why did I lack lube? Why is there that much oil around the dowel pin (the oil leak seemed to be coming from there)?
Originally Posted by Red94fd
Just saw your pics and video right after I posted...... that sucks man.
Originally Posted by DaleClark
Yeah that rear bearing is trashed. I'm wondering what the rest of the bearings look like.
Looks like the root of the failure was either low oil pressure or a great deal of crap in the oil system that ate the bearings. That's what I was leaning towards - the low cranking speed and not being able to idle - the motor was grinding into itself.
Looking forward to more pics of the inside!
Dale
Yes I agree, for sure that was the reason for the low cranking speed! Now I've got to find the oil leak/low oil pressure. Why did the bearing got eaten like this? Where is the problem in my oil system?
...ouch... this build is definitely questionable. The work looks nastier than the damage. Does anyone know how to rebuild these things anymore? Where was that engine built?
I'm gonna guess it was improper end play due to an improperly installed torrington bearing.
Your oil pump is done man. Check it, it's garbage. I would be surprised if it even turns smoothly by hand. The shavings are everywhere. The shavings clogged your oil pump and left you starving for oil. You have to flush your oil system WELL and make sure there is no copper left in the system. Especially after you get a new pump... it's easy to overlook and risk blowing your next engine basically in a similar way. This will be a pain in the butt.
If you're lucky you can spin your e-shaft to get the bearing bits off but I'd say your crank is also garbage.
This really sucks dude. Good luck... I hope you can find someone that knows what they're doing because this rebuild is gonna cost you a lot unfortunately.
Edit: I'm also gonna take a guess and say that your rotor bearings are also garbage.
Last edited by Rotary Alkymist; 03-28-20 at 10:11 AM.
...ouch... this build is definitely questionable. The work looks nastier than the damage. Does anyone know how to rebuild these things anymore? Where was that engine built?
I rebuilt it myself for the 1st time.
Originally Posted by Rotary Alkymist
I'm gonna guess it was improper end play due to an improperly installed torrington bearing.
Your oil pump is done man. Check it, it's garbage. I would be surprised if it even turns smoothly by hand. The shavings are everywhere. The shavings clogged your oil pump and left you starving for oil. You have to flush your oil system WELL and make sure there is no copper left in the system. Especially after you get a new pump... it's easy to overlook and risk blowing your next engine basically in a similar way. This will be a pain in the butt.
If you're lucky you can spin your e-shaft to get the bearing bits off but I'd say your crank is also garbage.
This really sucks dude. Good luck... I hope you can find someone that knows what they're doing because this rebuild is gonna cost you a lot unfortunately.
Edit: I'm also gonna take a guess and say that your rotor bearings are also garbage.
So I had a washer in front of the torrington bearing, and a washer at the rear of the counterweight. I'm pretty confident that was OK.
As mentioned, the 2 circular scratches on the rear iron where the oil pump goes to were there when I first rebuilt the engine. I had a long discussion on this forum about it and "we" concluded that it was OK to leave it like that.
Rotor bearings are worth having a close look I agree...
Right now all apex seals, side seals (THANK GOD), rotors, housings, irons... I'm pretty sure they're all good and they are the expensive stuff I think.
Eccentric shaft seems to have circular burnt marks, I wonder if it is acceptable. I still haven't found any scratch or any other sign of physical damage on the eccentric shaft.
Some oil felt off the rotor when I took it off.
Some scratches here and there on the rear rotor bearing.
When I removed apex seals springs, I had some "black stuff" coming out of the holes.
My apologies, I thought you had the engine built for you.
If you use those rotors be sure to file those burrs and dings off as they may cause pinging.
Hahaha that is fine, I am learning I knew it was not going to be perfect. I think my most embarassing mistake is... HYLOMAR!
So the engine is now all disassembled.
Lots and LOTS of Hylomar everywhere.
Eccentric shaft has circular burnt marks at a few places. I don't know if it is acceptable.
Corner seal rubbers: this is strange. They were all new when I installed them. I think I bought a couple from Mazda, but most are from Atkins. I will try to call the dealership on monday to confirm. I've got 2 corner seal rubbers that are still in brand new condition, and 10 of them are completely trashed. I am suspecting that all the Atkins rubber plugs (10) are the trashed ones, and all the Mazda rubber plugs (2) are the good ones. If I recall, I lost 2 from Atkins for some reason, which is why I've got 2 Mazda rubber plugs. To be confirmed. But I know it had nothing to do with my previous problems.
Front rotor bearing seems to be in good shape and reusable.
Front gear seems fairly worn (much less than the rear stationary gear).
During the whole disassembly, there was oil everytime at the bottom right (irons and housings) as shown on the last picture.
I didn't manage to find the reason to my low oil pressure/major oil leak.
You learn by your mistakes. I'm actually finding this interesting because i am contemplating rebuilding my original engine (have two)
Excessive sealant use isn't an issue, unless it gets in passages and blocks things (like oil)
Yes, I will learn by my mistakes. I don't think Hylomar blocked anything though...
I cannot find the oiling problem. I will change rotors bearings, rear and front gears bearing, maybe the eccentric shaft... But I need to know what caused the bearings failure.
Hylomar is not a selant by any means. Ultra gray or similar is used for the legs on the housings meeting the irons. Hylomar will never dry and seal or keep any oil from zipping through specialy if there is presure.
I can think of three things could had failed
oil pump
Front stack end play
oil presure regulator.
for sure your front stack is wrong with that extra plate(washer).
Hylomar is not a selant by any means. Ultra gray or similar is used for the legs on the housings meeting the irons. Hylomar will never dry and seal or keep any oil from zipping through specialy if there is presure.
I can think of three things could had failed
oil pump
Front stack end play
oil presure regulator.
for sure your front stack is wrong with that extra plate(washer).
I don't know, the oil pump doesn't seem bad to me...
The oil pressure regulator has been "modded" (flattened) while rebuilding the engine... I've just seen some threads about some problems that could occur with that mod.
About these front stack washers. Okay. I decided to take a picture to better show the washers. Maybe I'm wrong, but if I am, I will be pretty shocked!
I had to zoom the hell in on pic 4 cause the bearing has a lip that makes it look like anothe plate behind it... sorry man I am on the phone 99% of the time reading this. I need glasses now... You were right about the front stack..
I had to zoom the hell in on pic 4 cause the bearing has a lip that makes it look like anothe plate behind it... sorry man I am on the phone 99% of the time reading this. I need glasses now... You were right about the front stack..
Hahaha that's alright, you were not the first one questioning the washers of my front stack so that's why I posted a picture!
1- that E-shaft is garbage, get a new one. If it's got burn marks there's probably going to be problems with it, it's not worth trying to re-use.
2 - Yes, you can do the bearings yourself. You do need a hydraulic press for sure. I would get this - https://www.pineappleracing.com/bear...sstoolset.aspx
to do the job. Works great and does both bearings. Read up on bearing installs and the shop manual.
3 - Not sure on that, once you open a motor that's had oil and coolant running through it stuff gets everywhere.
4 - yes, you can re-use o-rings as long as they are in good shape. If they are nicked/torn, flattened, etc. replace them.
5 - No o-ring on the lower dowel pin. Only the top ones, that's why there is a groove around the top dowel pin. O-rings need a space to live in, you can't crush them between two flat surfaces or they won't do anything.
6 - Quite possibly. I'm not sure why you started the car with oil lines not hooked up or whatever, that could also be why you had low/no oil pressure.
7 - can't help you there .
I know this situation sucks, but you are learning. I screwed up a BUNCH of stuff on my first rebuild, mainly with the front cover stack and with the front cover O-ring. I encourage people to build their own engine, it's very rewarding but you have to account that you may have to pull it apart or re-do things.
03-27-20, 02:02 PM
sorry man I am on the phone 99% of the time reading this. I need glasses now... You were right about the front stack..
.