Trouble getting the car started after rebuild
03-18-20, 11:53 AM
#151
Leadings and trailings sound different, very different. Compression doesn't sound the same at all. Battery voltage just after I took the video was 12.88V, confirmed by Walmart. I just tried again this morning with a fully charged battery (and being boosted by another running car) and I got 160 RPM, which is still very slow.
My PFC commander drops to 9v as I'm starting too BTW. That crank still seems really slow considering the boost.
03-18-20, 07:22 PM
#152
That's normal. The opening for spark is larger on the leading than it is on the trailing. I thought you meant front to rear was different, which would obviously be a bad sign.
My PFC commander drops to 9v as I'm starting too BTW. That crank still seems really slow considering the boost.
My PFC commander drops to 9v as I'm starting too BTW. That crank still seems really slow considering the boost.
Last edited by MuRCieLaGo; 03-18-20 at 07:44 PM.
03-18-20, 09:03 PM
#154
To be completely honest with you, it wasn't at first. Lines were mixed up all over the place and 2 lines were not connected at all (yeah I guess I found the source of my oil leak)... When I put everything in place last year I was kind of in a rush to finish the project (I'm not in a rush anymore).
Now since yesterday, everything is connected properly.
Now since yesterday, everything is connected properly.
Last edited by MuRCieLaGo; 03-18-20 at 09:06 PM.
03-19-20, 08:53 AM
#155
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
What 2 lines were not connected? OMP lines?
I would verify you have good oil pressure. That's concerning me. It's REAL easy for the oil pump key to slip out of the keyway and you have zero oil pressure - been there, done that.
Dale
I would verify you have good oil pressure. That's concerning me. It's REAL easy for the oil pump key to slip out of the keyway and you have zero oil pressure - been there, done that.
Dale
03-19-20, 10:11 AM
#156
- One of the OMP lines was not blanked (I removed the OMP system).
- Return line from turbo was missing.
- Feed line that goes to turbo from top of front cover was missing.
03-19-20, 10:41 AM
#157
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
With the turbo oil return disconnected, it had to have been PUMPING a bunch of oil onto the ground. It wouldn't be a subtle drip but a LOT of oil.
Was that the case?
Dale
Was that the case?
Dale
03-19-20, 11:13 AM
#158
Curious about oiling as well, mainly because this happened to me. Oil pump failed, and as a result, cranking became very slow due to the lack of oil eating a bearing. I thought it was an electrical problem at first. What you might do is take the accessory belts off just to rule out a sticky accessory, and attempt to turn the motor over manually (either by hand or with wrench) and see if you can feel excessive resistance. These motors shouldn't be very difficult to spin.
03-19-20, 07:34 PM
#159
Curious about oiling as well, mainly because this happened to me. Oil pump failed, and as a result, cranking became very slow due to the lack of oil eating a bearing. I thought it was an electrical problem at first. What you might do is take the accessory belts off just to rule out a sticky accessory, and attempt to turn the motor over manually (either by hand or with wrench) and see if you can feel excessive resistance. These motors shouldn't be very difficult to spin.
Your idea that a bearing is blown is very possible and I'm keeping that in mind.
Right now I'm trying to figure out the oil pressure. The wire going to the connector is cut and I can't figure out which wire it is (which color )... I will probably have to take the engine out, I just bought an engine hoist. If I have to, While the engine is out I'll do myself a huge favor and I'll buy a new wiring harness.
Last edited by MuRCieLaGo; 03-19-20 at 09:21 PM.
03-20-20, 09:27 AM
#162
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
To answer an earlier question, yes you can test oil pressure before starting. Remove the EGI fuse under the hood which will disable the ECU. Crank the engine with the starter until you see oil pressure.
BTW this is ALWAYS a smart idea on any new engine before first start. Makes sure you have good pressure before starting and also primes the system so you start the car with everything lubricated. Also it's a quick way to see if you forgot to hook up an oil line when it pukes everywhere
.
Dale
BTW this is ALWAYS a smart idea on any new engine before first start. Makes sure you have good pressure before starting and also primes the system so you start the car with everything lubricated. Also it's a quick way to see if you forgot to hook up an oil line when it pukes everywhere
.Dale
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03-20-20, 11:30 AM
#163
Racecar - Formula 2000
It's also a good idea to do the pre-start cranking w/o the spark plugs installed. Cranking RPM will be higher, and there will be less load on everything that needs lubrication.
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DaleClark (03-20-20)
03-20-20, 06:47 PM
#164
To answer an earlier question, yes you can test oil pressure before starting. Remove the EGI fuse under the hood which will disable the ECU. Crank the engine with the starter until you see oil pressure.
BTW this is ALWAYS a smart idea on any new engine before first start. Makes sure you have good pressure before starting and also primes the system so you start the car with everything lubricated. Also it's a quick way to see if you forgot to hook up an oil line when it pukes everywhere.
Dale
BTW this is ALWAYS a smart idea on any new engine before first start. Makes sure you have good pressure before starting and also primes the system so you start the car with everything lubricated. Also it's a quick way to see if you forgot to hook up an oil line when it pukes everywhere
.Dale
Cranking speed is still very slow. I'm getting 155 RPM. When the car starts next time (if it does), I'll look at the oil pressure. In the mean time here is a picture that I just took. Spark plugs are always become like that when I manage to start the car 1 minute.
I removed alternator belt and PS belt, all the pulleys are good. Engine doesn't feel too hard to turn with a 1/2'' wratchet (but I can't turn it by hand).
Last edited by MuRCieLaGo; 03-20-20 at 06:50 PM.
03-20-20, 08:30 PM
#166
Originally Posted by MuRCieLaGo
I removed alternator belt and PS belt, all the pulleys are good. Engine doesn't feel too hard to turn with a 1/2'' wratchet (but I can't turn it by hand).
03-20-20, 09:44 PM
#167
It definitely looks like something is seized in there.
Honestly. I just can't wait to pull that engine out. I just want it to start one last time to see the oil pressure.
03-20-20, 09:49 PM
#168
Yep. This feels too familiar to what I experienced when one of my rotor bearings got ground into the e-shaft. Cranking was slow, I could turn it over with a wrench (but with more resistance than should have been there), I could not turn it over by hand (never had a problem hand-turning before, and I'm not what you'd call a strong dude).
03-20-20, 10:13 PM
#169
Yep. This feels too familiar to what I experienced when one of my rotor bearings got ground into the e-shaft. Cranking was slow, I could turn it over with a wrench (but with more resistance than should have been there), I could not turn it over by hand (never had a problem hand-turning before, and I'm not what you'd call a strong dude).
Is it really worth to wait to see if I've got oil pressure?
03-21-20, 08:56 AM
#170
Sucker for Punishment
At this point you should drain your oil and pray to the rotary gods that you dont find copper shavings in your oil.
If you find even one flake ... time to buy a bottle of scotch and start saving money lol.
If you find even one flake ... time to buy a bottle of scotch and start saving money lol.
03-21-20, 09:25 AM
#171
Racecar - Formula 2000
03-21-20, 09:30 AM
#172
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
It can take a while (maybe 20 seconds) to build oil pressure at cranking RPM.
Dale
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Rotary Alkymist (03-21-20)
03-21-20, 12:33 PM
#173
I'm taking the engine out today. I'm almost done already. I'll keep this thread updated on my 2nd rebuild.
Thanks for your support everyone!
03-21-20, 06:14 PM
#175
But I'm still debating if I should send it to a rotary shop so that they can tell me what were my mistakes in the rebuild... Do you guys think they would accept to do that? And what do you think of the idea? I'm very afraid of seeing damage inside and being unable to see why it happened.
Engine is out now, it was very fun. However I still would have preferred to read a Danielle Steel book today.
Last edited by MuRCieLaGo; 03-21-20 at 07:10 PM.