Trouble getting the car started after rebuild
03-21-20, 07:32 PM
#176
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
I thought you were wearing a black nitrile glove - nope, that's just dirty!
I screwed up a LOT of stuff on my first rebuild. Big thing is you learn and move forward. It's always easiest just to pay someone to do it for you, but what's the fun in that?
I have a feeling you're going to be looking at some sort of bearing damage and possibly an oil pump that isn't functioning. Pull it apart, document it, and we'll be here to help.
Dale
I screwed up a LOT of stuff on my first rebuild. Big thing is you learn and move forward. It's always easiest just to pay someone to do it for you, but what's the fun in that?
I have a feeling you're going to be looking at some sort of bearing damage and possibly an oil pump that isn't functioning. Pull it apart, document it, and we'll be here to help.
Dale
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rotary_fan (03-31-20)
03-22-20, 04:46 PM
#177
I thought you were wearing a black nitrile glove - nope, that's just dirty!
I screwed up a LOT of stuff on my first rebuild. Big thing is you learn and move forward. It's always easiest just to pay someone to do it for you, but what's the fun in that?
I have a feeling you're going to be looking at some sort of bearing damage and possibly an oil pump that isn't functioning. Pull it apart, document it, and we'll be here to help.
Dale
I screwed up a LOT of stuff on my first rebuild. Big thing is you learn and move forward. It's always easiest just to pay someone to do it for you, but what's the fun in that?
I have a feeling you're going to be looking at some sort of bearing damage and possibly an oil pump that isn't functioning. Pull it apart, document it, and we'll be here to help.
Dale
Alright! So my rebuilding diary begins.
I guess this could be normal.
Some sludge on the oil drain plug, no metal shavings (picture was taken after I washed it).
This is my main question now. I've got the Banzai oil pan brace. Do you guys think it could have been the "major oil leak" right there?
03-22-20, 10:09 PM
#179
I have read somewhere that the brace will fix a bent oil pan. Or did I?
Thanks for the interest, I bought 2 96" x 32" tables especially for the project this afternoon.
I'm already blocked, I need to buy a 54mm socket for the flywheel tomorrow.
03-23-20, 04:55 PM
#180
I couldn't find a 54mm socket locally (throughout Canada). I'll try some more tomorrow. It is getting very difficult to order something from USA. I've got an address in NY but I cannot cross the border anymore... Now I think my project could be coming to a halt for a good while... 
03-23-20, 05:10 PM
#181
I'm not sure where you are specifically, but if you have a local heavy equipment shop, they might lend it to you. I once brought an engine to the local town's equipment maintenance facility (like where they maintain snow plow trucks), and they buzzed off the nut for me in a couple minutes.
Might be an option if you can't buy one.
Might be an option if you can't buy one.
03-23-20, 10:20 PM
#183
I'm not sure where you are specifically, but if you have a local heavy equipment shop, they might lend it to you. I once brought an engine to the local town's equipment maintenance facility (like where they maintain snow plow trucks), and they buzzed off the nut for me in a couple minutes.
Might be an option if you can't buy one.
Might be an option if you can't buy one.
They've got a 2.125'' (54mm) x 1'' drive socket for $35 CAD shipped, however the breaker bar is $89.99 + shipping...
Mazdatrix got the tool for only $45 USD + shipping (takes way too long to ship from USA to Canada at the moment) and they say "During re-assembly, this tool will allow you to accurately re-torque the nut to the required 350 foot-pounds." I don't understand why they say that I can accurately re-torque the nut to the requires 350 ft-lbs with that tool. Is there something I don't get?
Last edited by MuRCieLaGo; 03-23-20 at 10:23 PM.
03-24-20, 07:44 AM
#184
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
I've been using a Craftsman 2 1/8" socket for YEARS. It has a step-down adapter, I think it's 1" drive and stepped down to 1/2". Used it COUNTLESS times on FC's and FD's with impact guns and by hand.
The torque spec on that nut really isn't that critical. You just get it as tight as you possibly can. I typically just hit it with the impact gun until it absolutely doesn't move any more. Never had a single problem.
Not sure why Mazdatrix says "accurately" - that will do the job but no accuracy there.
Dale
The torque spec on that nut really isn't that critical. You just get it as tight as you possibly can. I typically just hit it with the impact gun until it absolutely doesn't move any more. Never had a single problem.
Not sure why Mazdatrix says "accurately" - that will do the job but no accuracy there.
Dale
03-24-20, 08:24 AM
#185
Racecar - Formula 2000
I think what they're trying to say is that the bar is long enough that you can, with reasonable effort, apply enough torque to do the job properly.
03-24-20, 05:19 PM
#187
I've been using a Craftsman 2 1/8" socket for YEARS. It has a step-down adapter, I think it's 1" drive and stepped down to 1/2". Used it COUNTLESS times on FC's and FD's with impact guns and by hand.
The torque spec on that nut really isn't that critical. You just get it as tight as you possibly can. I typically just hit it with the impact gun until it absolutely doesn't move any more. Never had a single problem.
Not sure why Mazdatrix says "accurately" - that will do the job but no accuracy there.
Dale
The torque spec on that nut really isn't that critical. You just get it as tight as you possibly can. I typically just hit it with the impact gun until it absolutely doesn't move any more. Never had a single problem.
Not sure why Mazdatrix says "accurately" - that will do the job but no accuracy there.
Dale
Haha you are right... Simple maths there!
03-26-20, 02:20 PM
#189
Well today I found a 55mm socket with 1/2'' drive. It does the job! But I can't take that nut off. I've got a 135 PSI compressor and it is too weak. I tried all kind of weird things to take it off, without any luck. I am alone and it makes things difficult. Now I'll have to order a flywheel stopper tool...
03-26-20, 02:40 PM
#191
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Typically the flywheel nut isn't too bad to remove, the 19mm front pulley nut is the REAL bitch to remove.
Old trick I've used to keep the engine from turning is to get a decent chain and 2 sacrificial bolts. Bolt one end of the chain to one of the holes in the flywheel the clutch bolts to and bolt the other end to one of the transmission bolt holes on the rear iron. This typically bends or goofs up the threads in the bolts so I don't recommend using the nice bolts that you want to actually use in the future.
May want to put a little heat on the flywheel nut too (torch) - they may have used a good amount of Loctite. Heat will break that free.
Worst case use a breaker bar/cheater pipe and break it loose. May have to have someone help steady the motor or something.
But, for me, typically the impact gun does the trick, takes a little bit from it but it will go.
Dale
Old trick I've used to keep the engine from turning is to get a decent chain and 2 sacrificial bolts. Bolt one end of the chain to one of the holes in the flywheel the clutch bolts to and bolt the other end to one of the transmission bolt holes on the rear iron. This typically bends or goofs up the threads in the bolts so I don't recommend using the nice bolts that you want to actually use in the future.
May want to put a little heat on the flywheel nut too (torch) - they may have used a good amount of Loctite. Heat will break that free.
Worst case use a breaker bar/cheater pipe and break it loose. May have to have someone help steady the motor or something.
But, for me, typically the impact gun does the trick, takes a little bit from it but it will go.
Dale
03-26-20, 04:30 PM
#192
Typically the flywheel nut isn't too bad to remove, the 19mm front pulley nut is the REAL bitch to remove.
Old trick I've used to keep the engine from turning is to get a decent chain and 2 sacrificial bolts. Bolt one end of the chain to one of the holes in the flywheel the clutch bolts to and bolt the other end to one of the transmission bolt holes on the rear iron. This typically bends or goofs up the threads in the bolts so I don't recommend using the nice bolts that you want to actually use in the future.
May want to put a little heat on the flywheel nut too (torch) - they may have used a good amount of Loctite. Heat will break that free.
Worst case use a breaker bar/cheater pipe and break it loose. May have to have someone help steady the motor or something.
But, for me, typically the impact gun does the trick, takes a little bit from it but it will go.
Dale
Old trick I've used to keep the engine from turning is to get a decent chain and 2 sacrificial bolts. Bolt one end of the chain to one of the holes in the flywheel the clutch bolts to and bolt the other end to one of the transmission bolt holes on the rear iron. This typically bends or goofs up the threads in the bolts so I don't recommend using the nice bolts that you want to actually use in the future.
May want to put a little heat on the flywheel nut too (torch) - they may have used a good amount of Loctite. Heat will break that free.
Worst case use a breaker bar/cheater pipe and break it loose. May have to have someone help steady the motor or something.
But, for me, typically the impact gun does the trick, takes a little bit from it but it will go.
Dale
Next problem is: the engine is way too light! the engine will spin as I put some force on the nut.
I don't have any friend to hold the engine down. Only way I am thinking: Maybe I should put a CAR on that engine. I've got an old 2006 Pontiac G6 and maybe I should use the engine as a jack stand. What do you think?
Last edited by MuRCieLaGo; 03-26-20 at 04:48 PM.
03-26-20, 05:40 PM
#194
I just found an awesome way! I strapped that engine on the engine hoist!
Now the next problem is: I AM TOO WEAK! I need a longer breaker bar. I don't think I am going to find one tonight.
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MuRCieLaGo (03-27-20)
03-27-20, 12:55 AM
#196
It works perfectly! I could even have kept both legs and use the "top part"!
Wow, that engine hoist is super useful.
Unfortunately as you can see the socket died.
Now I'm gonna think about 3 choices:
- Buy another socket 1/2'' (stronger quality).
- Buy another socket 3/4''.
- Get this socket welded to a 5 feet metal bar!
03-27-20, 09:07 AM
#198
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
That's a stamped/welded steel socket. I can see that thing stripping out!
The socket I've used for ages is a regular chrome vanadium socket like in a regular socket set, just 2 1/8" with a step-down adapter to 1/2". You used to be able to easily go to Sears and buy them but there's not many Sears around any more.
Dale
The socket I've used for ages is a regular chrome vanadium socket like in a regular socket set, just 2 1/8" with a step-down adapter to 1/2". You used to be able to easily go to Sears and buy them but there's not many Sears around any more.
Dale
03-27-20, 10:22 AM
#199
Racecar - Formula 2000
Being the cheap SOB I am, I'd machine or grind the opening to 3/4" square and then use a 3/4 to 1/2 adapter.
03-27-20, 10:51 AM
#200
That's a stamped/welded steel socket. I can see that thing stripping out!
The socket I've used for ages is a regular chrome vanadium socket like in a regular socket set, just 2 1/8" with a step-down adapter to 1/2". You used to be able to easily go to Sears and buy them but there's not many Sears around any more.
Dale
The socket I've used for ages is a regular chrome vanadium socket like in a regular socket set, just 2 1/8" with a step-down adapter to 1/2". You used to be able to easily go to Sears and buy them but there's not many Sears around any more.
Dale
Not a bad idea! You got me thinking... Maybe I'll try to get it refunded and if they don't want to I'll keep it and try your idea instead of throwing it in the garbage.
Last edited by MuRCieLaGo; 03-27-20 at 11:09 AM.