That's normal. The opening for spark is larger on the leading than it is on the trailing. I thought you meant front to rear was different, which would obviously be a bad sign.

My PFC commander drops to 9v as I'm starting too BTW. That crank still seems really slow considering the boost.

 

Well that's strange. Could something be "partially seized" in the engine? I'm out of idea, I really don't know now.

 

Is your oiling system full/working?

 

To be completely honest with you, it wasn't at first. Lines were mixed up all over the place and 2 lines were not connected at all (yeah I guess I found the source of my oil leak)... When I put everything in place last year I was kind of in a rush to finish the project (I'm not in a rush anymore).

Now since yesterday, everything is connected properly.

 

What 2 lines were not connected? OMP lines?

I would verify you have good oil pressure. That's concerning me. It's REAL easy for the oil pump key to slip out of the keyway and you have zero oil pressure - been there, done that.

Dale

 

1. One of the OMP lines was not blanked (I removed the OMP system).
2. Return line from turbo was missing.
3. Feed line that goes to turbo from top of front cover was missing.

This is how the oil lines were installed before. Is there a way to measure oil pressure without starting the car? I agree it is my next step...

 

With the turbo oil return disconnected, it had to have been PUMPING a bunch of oil onto the ground. It wouldn't be a subtle drip but a LOT of oil.

Was that the case?

Dale

 

Curious about oiling as well, mainly because this happened to me. Oil pump failed, and as a result, cranking became very slow due to the lack of oil eating a bearing. I thought it was an electrical problem at first. What you might do is take the accessory belts off just to rule out a sticky accessory, and attempt to turn the motor over manually (either by hand or with wrench) and see if you can feel excessive resistance. These motors shouldn't be very difficult to spin.

 

All the turbo area is heavily covered with oil. Everything external seem to be correctly connected now, but I think there is still an oil leak at the rear end of the engine.

I did turn the engine but with the belts still installed (there are only the alternators and the power steering pump).

Your idea that a bearing is blown is very possible and I'm keeping that in mind.

Right now I'm trying to figure out the oil pressure. The wire going to the connector is cut and I can't figure out which wire it is (which color )... I will probably have to take the engine out, I just bought an engine hoist. If I have to, While the engine is out I'll do myself a huge favor and I'll buy a new wiring harness.

 

I'm a bit shy of asking but... Which color is the wire going to the oil pressure sender? I do not really understand the diagram, there's only one wire going there if I recall correctly...

 

Oil pressure sensor is a one-wire sensor. Colors are grey with red stripe. I believe you are looking at the manifold pressure sensor. Oil pressure sensor is in the "instrument cluster" section of the wiring manual.

 

To answer an earlier question, yes you can test oil pressure before starting. Remove the EGI fuse under the hood which will disable the ECU. Crank the engine with the starter until you see oil pressure.

BTW this is ALWAYS a smart idea on any new engine before first start. Makes sure you have good pressure before starting and also primes the system so you start the car with everything lubricated. Also it's a quick way to see if you forgot to hook up an oil line when it pukes everywhere .

Dale

 

It's also a good idea to do the pre-start cranking w/o the spark plugs installed. Cranking RPM will be higher, and there will be less load on everything that needs lubrication.

 

Thank you very much sir! Oil pressure sender is now connected.

I'm afraid oil pressure won't show up before the car is started. I looked up YouTube videos of FDs that won't start and oil pressure don't show up while cranking.

Well noted... I'll do that next time I guess!



Cranking speed is still very slow. I'm getting 155 RPM. When the car starts next time (if it does), I'll look at the oil pressure. In the mean time here is a picture that I just took. Spark plugs are always become like that when I manage to start the car 1 minute.

I removed alternator belt and PS belt, all the pulleys are good. Engine doesn't feel too hard to turn with a 1/2'' wratchet (but I can't turn it by hand).

 

Even with 2 spark plugs removed cranking speed is slow now...

 

Interesting. I'm no Hulk, but I can turn my engine over by hand with accessories attached and spark plugs installed. I have 100psi of compression.

 

By pulling on the belts? I think I'm a strong man and there is no way I can turn that engine by hand by turning the pulley.

It definitely looks like something is seized in there.

Honestly. I just can't wait to pull that engine out. I just want it to start one last time to see the oil pressure.

 

Yep. This feels too familiar to what I experienced when one of my rotor bearings got ground into the e-shaft. Cranking was slow, I could turn it over with a wrench (but with more resistance than should have been there), I could not turn it over by hand (never had a problem hand-turning before, and I'm not what you'd call a strong dude).

 

You 100% convinced me of taking out/opening the engine.

Is it really worth to wait to see if I've got oil pressure?

 

At this point you should drain your oil and pray to the rotary gods that you dont find copper shavings in your oil.

If you find even one flake ... time to buy a bottle of scotch and start saving money lol.

 

I think you've got it right here. Take it out and see what's wrong. You will obviously be much better at doing this the 2nd time.

Good luck.

 

Nope, I can guarantee you will see oil pressure without the engine running. Done it MANY times. Just the EGI fuse pulled, you should still see the tach bounce.

It can take a while (maybe 20 seconds) to build oil pressure at cranking RPM.

Dale

 

I would simply be happy to have found the problem!

Hmmm, I tried to hold the key for 20 seconds without any luck. RPM was down to 120 after 15 seconds...

I agree! It's happening now.

I'm taking the engine out today. I'm almost done already. I'll keep this thread updated on my 2nd rebuild.

Thanks for your support everyone!

 

I know it's frustrating but you're probably getting great rebuild experience. Most owners wouldn't dare.

 

Absolutely...

But I'm still debating if I should send it to a rotary shop so that they can tell me what were my mistakes in the rebuild... Do you guys think they would accept to do that? And what do you think of the idea? I'm very afraid of seeing damage inside and being unable to see why it happened.

Engine is out now, it was very fun. However I still would have preferred to read a Danielle Steel book today.