track reliability?
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track reliability?
I am thinking about getting back with the 7 crowd, but I'm still iffy on the reliability
I am planning on making a "street legal" track car.. low-mid 300whp range but I am curious if others on here track their cars a lot (at least 2 times a month) and have issues.
any suggestions or tips for a good build? I was thinking street port and BNR 3's
I am tossing between an s2k and a fd still
I am planning on making a "street legal" track car.. low-mid 300whp range but I am curious if others on here track their cars a lot (at least 2 times a month) and have issues.
any suggestions or tips for a good build? I was thinking street port and BNR 3's
I am tossing between an s2k and a fd still
#4
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If you run R compound tires you will soon find the weak link is the size & thickness of the brake rotors.
I ran PF 97 pads on a set of drilled Brembo rotors & got stress cracks (expected) out of the holes. This after years of street driving & 3 beginner track events.
I replaced them with a set of (suposivly higher quality) slotted one piece rotors from StopTech. Those suckers cracked after 2 events.
StopTech was alot of help when I complained about how easily they craked. They basicly said my brakes were too small & needed better cooling. They would gladly give me 10% off another set.
Their fix was their BBK. I pointed out that I also cracked the rear rotors. "Do you have a BBK for the rear?" I asked? NOPE, I was SOL
I ended up with the RS brake calipers matted up to Revolution Brake two piece slotted rotors.
If I still have issues I'll plan to add hoses ducted to the base of the rotors from the 99 spoiler lip for the front. Hoses ducted to the rear from scoops mounted under the car to direct more flow.
I ran PF 97 pads on a set of drilled Brembo rotors & got stress cracks (expected) out of the holes. This after years of street driving & 3 beginner track events.
I replaced them with a set of (suposivly higher quality) slotted one piece rotors from StopTech. Those suckers cracked after 2 events.
StopTech was alot of help when I complained about how easily they craked. They basicly said my brakes were too small & needed better cooling. They would gladly give me 10% off another set.
Their fix was their BBK. I pointed out that I also cracked the rear rotors. "Do you have a BBK for the rear?" I asked? NOPE, I was SOL
I ended up with the RS brake calipers matted up to Revolution Brake two piece slotted rotors.
If I still have issues I'll plan to add hoses ducted to the base of the rotors from the 99 spoiler lip for the front. Hoses ducted to the rear from scoops mounted under the car to direct more flow.
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I couldn't agree more.
On my first track day in the FD, I went with R compound (245s x 4 on stock wheels).
Brakes were faded after 2 laps. Ended up in a spin because I wasn't willing to let off enough, lol.
One of the stock rims also fractured. They are light, but not particularly strong, nor designed to handle the forces that R compound permits.
Now the Pettit BBK is going on(stock rear brakes though)! I also have widefoot carbon ducts. Plus new wheels/tires on the way.
As far as motor reliability for a street legal track car? Probably the s2k is more reliable, but would take more cash up front, so it doesn't matter. THe FD will push low to mid 300s on a very close to stock platform. The S2k would have to be boosted and I much prefer the handling of the FD. I'd go FD since they are already built to be boosted. Plus the s2k is a chick car (my mom loves hers).
On my first track day in the FD, I went with R compound (245s x 4 on stock wheels).
Brakes were faded after 2 laps. Ended up in a spin because I wasn't willing to let off enough, lol.
One of the stock rims also fractured. They are light, but not particularly strong, nor designed to handle the forces that R compound permits.
Now the Pettit BBK is going on(stock rear brakes though)! I also have widefoot carbon ducts. Plus new wheels/tires on the way.
As far as motor reliability for a street legal track car? Probably the s2k is more reliable, but would take more cash up front, so it doesn't matter. THe FD will push low to mid 300s on a very close to stock platform. The S2k would have to be boosted and I much prefer the handling of the FD. I'd go FD since they are already built to be boosted. Plus the s2k is a chick car (my mom loves hers).
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i just took a spin in my friends comptech s/c s2000
i actually wasnt impressed at all.. has a 7pt cage and JIC's so it handled pretty well, but the power wasnt whta i was expecting. He said braking is great for track use though
Im 99% set on an FD after that ride.. now I need to search for a good candidate car
has anyone tried any project mu BBK's?
i actually wasnt impressed at all.. has a 7pt cage and JIC's so it handled pretty well, but the power wasnt whta i was expecting. He said braking is great for track use though
Im 99% set on an FD after that ride.. now I need to search for a good candidate car
has anyone tried any project mu BBK's?
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I have a Stoptech BBK and I experienced no fade whatsoever with good race pads for HPDEs. I don't have an undertray due to the vmount so I don't know if that helps at all or not.
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i just took a spin in my friends comptech s/c s2000
i actually wasnt impressed at all.. has a 7pt cage and JIC's so it handled pretty well, but the power wasnt whta i was expecting. He said braking is great for track use though
Im 99% set on an FD after that ride.. now I need to search for a good candidate car
has anyone tried any project mu BBK's?
i actually wasnt impressed at all.. has a 7pt cage and JIC's so it handled pretty well, but the power wasnt whta i was expecting. He said braking is great for track use though
Im 99% set on an FD after that ride.. now I need to search for a good candidate car
has anyone tried any project mu BBK's?
How much power is that s2k putting down? I drive with 400whp S2ks in my 305whp FD and don't have trouble hanging, but they ARE FAST - Never seen a S/C one, just turbos *shrug*
Last edited by zenofspeed; 03-31-08 at 02:48 PM.
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The best stock sized rotors I've found are the $35 from NAPA. I've actually made it 2 track days so for on them without stress cracks, this is with front brake ducts. I've never had problems with the rear rotors though. The FD brakes are awesome for a street driven car and maybe even a stock hp track car, but around 300hp they start to become a problem.
FWIW I track mine probably once a month and haven't had really any problems except for the brakes. With proper ducting you can keep the engine cool, which was a major problem when I first got the car. My car makes right at 300hp in track form, with BNR 3s, upgraded SMIC, all the bolt on stuff, PFC, etc.
FWIW I track mine probably once a month and haven't had really any problems except for the brakes. With proper ducting you can keep the engine cool, which was a major problem when I first got the car. My car makes right at 300hp in track form, with BNR 3s, upgraded SMIC, all the bolt on stuff, PFC, etc.
#11
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he said it dynoed high 380's at the wheels.. it definately isnt a slow car, i was just expecting more
im also 6'4 and apparently s2's dont have a tilt wheel which was annoying.. and NO room for footwork
im also 6'4 and apparently s2's dont have a tilt wheel which was annoying.. and NO room for footwork
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^^ Vin Diesel drove one! lolz
i've never driven an fd but sat in one... it was a chore getting in and out but once I got in i felt fine. I figure I would get an Fx1 or Recaro seat and drop it as far down as i can
i hate bein tall
i've never driven an fd but sat in one... it was a chore getting in and out but once I got in i felt fine. I figure I would get an Fx1 or Recaro seat and drop it as far down as i can
i hate bein tall
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Vin Diesel may have sat in one, may even have driven one, but I'll wager he has never tried to race one.
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damn.. i really thought FD's had a lot of room for your feet
for some reason i remember it feeling like sitting in an F-body
the interior will get fully stripped, so maybe i can do some fabbing to make more room.
and the seat and quick disconnect are for sure... the parts list grows
for some reason i remember it feeling like sitting in an F-body
the interior will get fully stripped, so maybe i can do some fabbing to make more room.
and the seat and quick disconnect are for sure... the parts list grows
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damn.. i really thought FD's had a lot of room for your feet
for some reason i remember it feeling like sitting in an F-body
the interior will get fully stripped, so maybe i can do some fabbing to make more room.
and the seat and quick disconnect are for sure... the parts list grows
for some reason i remember it feeling like sitting in an F-body
the interior will get fully stripped, so maybe i can do some fabbing to make more room.
and the seat and quick disconnect are for sure... the parts list grows
#19
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even when they bring the cars over to the US market, Japaneses companies with their sports cars (i've driven both S2K's and i own an FD) seem to have this preconception with "the perfect driving position" but what they go off is the average, asian, of around 5'5 at 120-150 pounds. i mean, i'm korean, and i'm 5'8 and with a helmet and the stock seat/stock steering wheel i can get move around fine in the car, but i think if your 6' and up, you really have to invest in aftermarket seat/steering wheel. i'm not that tall and i'm thinking about going aftermarket just to lower myself a lil more.
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even when they bring the cars over to the US market, Japaneses companies with their sports cars (i've driven both S2K's and i own an FD) seem to have this preconception with "the perfect driving position" but what they go off is the average, asian, of around 5'5 at 120-150 pounds. i mean, i'm korean, and i'm 5'8 and with a helmet and the stock seat/stock steering wheel i can get move around fine in the car, but i think if your 6' and up, you really have to invest in aftermarket seat/steering wheel. i'm not that tall and i'm thinking about going aftermarket just to lower myself a lil more.
#21
needs more track time
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I am thinking about getting back with the 7 crowd, but I'm still iffy on the reliability
I am planning on making a "street legal" track car.. low-mid 300whp range but I am curious if others on here track their cars a lot (at least 2 times a month) and have issues.
any suggestions or tips for a good build? I was thinking street port and BNR 3's
I am tossing between an s2k and a fd still
I am planning on making a "street legal" track car.. low-mid 300whp range but I am curious if others on here track their cars a lot (at least 2 times a month) and have issues.
any suggestions or tips for a good build? I was thinking street port and BNR 3's
I am tossing between an s2k and a fd still
Any 13 year old car is going to take some time, work and money to get properly sorted - especially for track duty. Odd parts go bad that you would never think of - like having to replace the gas tank b/c the old baffles fell apart. If you don't have the patience to sort through those issues, then maybe the S2000 is better for you.
FWIW, I was at Horse Thief Mile this weekend. There were 3-4 other S2000s there. The one turbo S2000 overheated in the afternoon session driven by a relatively unexperienced driver (read slow).
My car was dead nuts reliable all weekend. Temps were controlled, handling was good, brakes were great. All of that was due to all the time, work and money I spent getting the car sorted and the correct set of parts working together.
FWIW, a street port, BNRs or any turbo kit (even stock) will work so long as all the systems (drive-train, suspension, brakes, electronics/ECU, fuel) are working well with each other.
#22
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i have no problem tearing the car apart and replacing lil stuff.. it will most likely be tracked a little this summer basically stock for my experience and to feel the car
then all winter (pa winters suck) will be spent adding reliability mods, stripping interior, cage... some basic suspension mods nice and slow so i can feel what works and what doesnt
and of course lots of cooling mods
- i guess i will have to find one locally that i can sit in and get a feel for the height issue... maybe even bolt the seat straight to the car since the cage will take some head room as well
then all winter (pa winters suck) will be spent adding reliability mods, stripping interior, cage... some basic suspension mods nice and slow so i can feel what works and what doesnt
and of course lots of cooling mods
- i guess i will have to find one locally that i can sit in and get a feel for the height issue... maybe even bolt the seat straight to the car since the cage will take some head room as well
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