C S

Looking at a 40k mile 1 owner FD. It’s been sitting for years. It’s an R1 in red. The clear is shot and needs a total repaint. Underside is perfect and engine looks good besides age oxidation on intake manifold. It runs and drives but has not been serviced or regularly used in 5+ years, let’s call it a decade. Anyone have an idea what it will cost to make it look/run/drive perfect?

paint job that is factory quality or close to it

what engine work will need to be done?

Thanks

Redbul

iTrader: (26)

Perfect? US$40,000.

(Actual results may vary.)

C S

what engine work would it need and how hard would it be for someone, like myself who is new to rotary’s , to do?

If it runs and drives OK now - any chance it could just need basic servicing and be good for a few years?

GtiKyle

iTrader: (5)

Hard to say. It will definitely need attention to vacuum lines, hoses, all new fluids at minimum. This is basic stuff not specific to a rotary that most owners can handle if you have any mechanical knowledge.

Once you start tearing into things you may find oil leaks , coolant leaks, brake hoses needing replaced, etc.This is where things could spiral without a really thorough inspection.
Cars don't like to sit for long periods.

In my opinion, if you can snag it, do it. They obviously aren't making anymore of them, and a LHD, one owner R1 is a very rare car these days. If you feel up to the task to resurrecting it and keeping it on the road, get it!

GtiKyle

iTrader: (5)

Expect to pay anywhere from $10k-20k for a quality paint job. These cars are too special to slap the cheapest paint job from the lowest bidder on. You'll probably get people telling you they can do it for $7k or whatever, but remember you get what you pay for, and at least in my opinion the paint presentation isn't worth skimping on. To really get things right, the seals, doors, glass all need to come out to do it correctly. If you plan to keep the car long term, and you have that pride of ownership, it may be worth it to you.

C S

well he mentioned there was a small mouse in a nest a few years ago by the rain tray. How concerning is that? Years later all the electronics work car runs drives etc. the car needs a full repaint , underside is mint, steering wheel has some weird white scratch or fade mark on the center but should be ok . Seats mint besides the driver side bolster having normal wear. Aftermarket head unit..

what is it work? Is 15-20k a good price

C S

yes I do, i would sell my turbo 2 and have this and hopefully one day a 04-07 sti with under 5000 original miles, my two favorite cars. I’m just worried if I pay too much and **** hits the fan and for some reason I need to recoup my investment how much is too much

GtiKyle

iTrader: (5)

A good gauge for the top end of pricing for these cars is BringaTrailer history. This will show you what the nicer cars are fetching, in very good condition. You can adjust from there.

TwinCharged RX7

iTrader: (14)

Is this thread a joke?

Redbul

iTrader: (26)

If the seller will cooperate and there is a true rotary shop nearby,, have th ecar taken there for:

1. Compression test - ideally over 100 psi on all six faces, but if below that look to the psi to be close on all the faces
2. Smoke test - will show where there are ;leaks in the intake and vacuum hose systems
3. Coolant system pressure test - Looks for leaking seals
4. Codes read (if check engine light is coming on) - identifies any glitching electrical components
5. General inspection of suspension, particularly the bushings.
6. Is there oil residue in the coolant?
7. Is the coolant in the oil
9. Blue, Black smoke or excess water vapour in the exhauist.

Having said all that, any price under US$20,000 you have limited downside risk, given the potential value as a parts car.

C S

why would it be a joke?

C S

can I do compression test myself? No rotary shops near him or myself .

I was thinking that price range is safe.

CREEPENJEEPEN

iTrader: (7)

Rough guess? $200 if it just needs a fluid change. Worst case, $12,000 for a new engine to arrive at your door. Then, another $5,000 to $10,000 for miscellaneous expenses. A mouse? An engine harness costs $1,300 from Ray Crowe; you'll have to find the front harness used. I think people are asking if this is a joke because, without any pictures or data, it's like asking if my fat uncle will survive running a mile if he hasn't left the couch in 10 years—and how much the hospital bill will cost.

TwinCharged RX7

iTrader: (14)

+1

C S

Ok here’s pictures. It hasn’t been driven on the road in 5+ years, no service in 5+ not even an oil change. It sat for a long time. Runs and drives but needs tires fluids etc. paint is shot

C S

I understand, I was trying to gauge an idea if there was a set list of things to try and go through for the FD. Based on 5* years of sitting, needing a complete respray, what’s a safe price where if the economy really tanks i can get most of my investment back

CREEPENJEEPEN

iTrader: (7)

Beautiful car; it even has the original floor mats. Everything looks 99% stock; the only thing that is not stock is the wiring for what I'm assuming are aftermarket fog lights. This would be a perfect car to flip on 'Bring a Trailer.' It could fetch $55,000-$60,000 after you paint it and get it running well. There's one very similar to this listed right now for $68,888 (If the car was painted and running well): https://bringatrailer.com/mazda/rx-7-fd/?q=rx7+fd.

To give you perspective, this car in its current condition as it sits would easily sell for $20,000, and that's with it not running. Since it's been sitting for 5 years but is running, I'd say $25,000. Shells today alone go for $10,000-$12,000, and that's without a drivetrain or interior. I'd pay a maximum of $25,000 for this car if it were me, and that's without a compression test. It's an amazing car for someone who can fix it themselves.

Great find, and thanks for providing more info so we can help you.

Also note, the stock apex seals from the factory are known to blow out around the 70,000-80,000 mile mark on average. Depending on how well the car was taken care of, some report having gone above 100K on their engine. It really comes down to a compression test, but you lose your leverage with the seller if the numbers comes out great.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

if it was detailed, and the major service done + tires, it would probably be fine for a while.

then its going to need all the other stuff an FD needs plus paint, which is 40k plus paint, lol
engine, harness, all the bushings in the rear, cooling system, clutch, metering lines, vacuum hoses, etc

the clamps on the intake are in the wrong place, so the hood insulation gets poked, and the left fender has been at least repainted

Brekyrself

iTrader: (30)

Please check the gas tank before running and driving. They are metal inside and depending how they are stored can be completely rusted inside. You absolutely do not want to take the chance of blowing a good engine because the fuel pump strainer got clogged with rust causing a drop in fuel pressure.

There is a drain plug on the gas tank.

How's it smell on the inside? That white on the steering wheel could be mold.

c0rbin9

iTrader: (2)

Seeing those pics, I highly doubt that car needs a paint job.

It has single stage paint, no clear coat. It can be polished out by a professional detailer and made to look new again. It would be a huge mistake to repaint it. The same detailer will also be able to restore the interior simply by cleaning it.

C S

was red 93 RX7s not clear coat paint?

c0rbin9

iTrader: (2)

That's correct, a red '93 R1 would have had single stage paint. They switched to clear in later years, and you could also get the "high-reflex" paint (code NT on door jamb sticker) for '93s, but that was for Tourings only, I believe. VR '93 R1 should be single stage, and the paint code on the door jamb sticker should be NU.

It certainly looks like faded single stage in those pics. Clear coat tends to peel off in "sheets".

Redbul

iTrader: (26)

Stop talkin' and buy this thing before you get gazumped.

C S

Does this not look like clear? A door was touched up due to key marks in the 90s, wondering if anywhere else was

C S

Zoom in, doesn’t look like clear?