Thinking on creating a digital cluster gauge
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 17
Likes: 5
From: Spain
Thinking on creating a digital cluster gauge
Hi all.
I'm thinking on creating a digital cluster using TFT screens and some microcontrollers. The thing here is that I have no clue on how all different signals that arrive to the cluster are generated. I mean, I assume oil pressure, coolant temp, and fuel level should be some kind of analog signal between X and Y volts. For all different signals (brake, ABS, etc...) I assume is just a binary signal, 0 for indicator OFF and X for indicator ON.
But what about RPMs and tachometer? Any documentation related to this?
Best regards.
I'm thinking on creating a digital cluster using TFT screens and some microcontrollers. The thing here is that I have no clue on how all different signals that arrive to the cluster are generated. I mean, I assume oil pressure, coolant temp, and fuel level should be some kind of analog signal between X and Y volts. For all different signals (brake, ABS, etc...) I assume is just a binary signal, 0 for indicator OFF and X for indicator ON.
But what about RPMs and tachometer? Any documentation related to this?
Best regards.
Last edited by GasGasJDM; Feb 14, 2022 at 03:31 PM.
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,612
Likes: 490
From: The Elysian Fields (Texas)
The FSM has just about everything you're looking for. It will require quite a bit of research into the Manual. Here's just a taste of what it'll take... from my own research...
Spic Racer GT40R - Interior simplified: Aim dash ++
Spic Racer GT40R - Interior simplified: Aim dash ++
Last edited by Carlos Iglesias; Feb 14, 2022 at 03:42 PM. Reason: ADD
You're in for an uphill battle. You might be worlds ahead going to an aftermarket ECU that supports a plug-in digital dash like Haltech.
Speedometers read in pulses. RPM is voltage I think. Oil pressure, fuel level, coolant temp is resistance. Idiot lights are circuits either going to ground or 12v.
To pull this off you'd need a deep knowledge of automotive 12v electronics, digital to analog conversion, microcontroller design and programming.....it's a big ask. Or just plug stuff in with a Haltech and make it work.
Or, just use the stock cluster that works just fine.
Dale
Speedometers read in pulses. RPM is voltage I think. Oil pressure, fuel level, coolant temp is resistance. Idiot lights are circuits either going to ground or 12v.
To pull this off you'd need a deep knowledge of automotive 12v electronics, digital to analog conversion, microcontroller design and programming.....it's a big ask. Or just plug stuff in with a Haltech and make it work.
Or, just use the stock cluster that works just fine.
Dale
Hi all.
I'm thinking on creating a digital cluster using TFT screens and some microcontrollers. The thing here is that I have no clue on how all different signals that arrive to the cluster are generated. I mean, I assume oil pressure, coolant temp, and fuel level should be some kind of analog signal between X and Y volts. For all different signals (brake, ABS, etc...) I assume is just a binary signal, 0 for indicator OFF and X for indicator ON.
But what about RPMs and tachometer? Any documentation related to this?
Best regards.
I'm thinking on creating a digital cluster using TFT screens and some microcontrollers. The thing here is that I have no clue on how all different signals that arrive to the cluster are generated. I mean, I assume oil pressure, coolant temp, and fuel level should be some kind of analog signal between X and Y volts. For all different signals (brake, ABS, etc...) I assume is just a binary signal, 0 for indicator OFF and X for indicator ON.
But what about RPMs and tachometer? Any documentation related to this?
Best regards.
Looks like he's pretty far along at doing exactly what you're looking at doing, big exception being he appears to be designing his display to work with CAN bus, so it's better suited to aftermarket ECU's. Once you deep dive into the FD's FSM/wiring diagrams you'll soon see that the stock dash inputs consist of a gaggle of discrete analog & digital/switch inputs feeding instruments.
In 2012, I built a simulator box that generated every signal a RX-7 cluster would receive. Fuel, Temperature, Oil Pressure are all Resistance meters, referenced to ground, while the Boost gauge is a 5v Voltage Divider (0-5v range). Speedo and Tach are 12v pulses, so I used an Arduino and suitable code with a keypad. Just input the frequency desired, press a button and see the gauge go to the corresponding reading. Per Granny's Speed Shop, 120hz signal on the Tach signal pin makes it read 3600rpm.
https://grannys.tripod.com/rx7tachrecal.html
As for the FC and earlier speedometers, I just used an extra speedometer cable with a household drill, using a Dimmer Switch to control the speed. The drill I used had a maximum speed of 3000rpm, so I calibrated the Dimmer switch by going up from 0 until the Speedometer hit 60mph (1024 rpm, close enough to 1000) and marked the Dimmer Switch's cover plate with "33%" to match.
If you REALLY want to build a digital cluster, similar to what was optional in a Z31 300zx, C4 Corvette, etc, I'd suggest starting with an Arduino. The Oil Pressure, Fuel Level and Temperature senders can be biased with resistors and then given 5v so they behave as a Voltage Divider, like the Map and TPS sensors do. The resistor needs to be as close to the MIDDLE of the sender's range in order to behave correctly.
The Arduino natively understands 0-5v signals, so doing this turns them into a 0-1023 memory value that you can program the Arduino to do something with, such as moving a stepper motor, turn on a light, sweep over a LED bar graph, etc.
Here's an over-simplified example of what your desired code will basically do, using 10 LEDs for your intended display:
Read Pin 13 "Oil Pressure"
If Value =0~100, Write Pin 14 High (0-10 psi, Pin 14 has 5v)
If Value=101~200, Write Pin 15 High (10-20psi, Pin 15 has 5v)
If Value=201~300, Write Pin 16 High (20-30psi, Pin 16 has 5v)
and so on until you get to Value 1023 which is the LOWEST resistance the sender normally outputs (arduino sees 5v for this). Usually represents maximum oil pressure, max fuel, crazy stupid overheated engine, you get the idea.
You can see an example of the concept in action here, using a potentiometer to simulate the sender's signal:
https://create.arduino.cc/projecthub...r-graph-7e6212
Values may need to be tweaked to suit your senders' individual ranges, the real magic is all in the code. The above link includes an example of the code they used for it. Adjust the values to suit your needs and you'll be halfway there. Aaron Cake goes much further into Arduinos and cluster mods on his 1976 Cosmo here:
https://grannys.tripod.com/rx7tachrecal.html
As for the FC and earlier speedometers, I just used an extra speedometer cable with a household drill, using a Dimmer Switch to control the speed. The drill I used had a maximum speed of 3000rpm, so I calibrated the Dimmer switch by going up from 0 until the Speedometer hit 60mph (1024 rpm, close enough to 1000) and marked the Dimmer Switch's cover plate with "33%" to match.
If you REALLY want to build a digital cluster, similar to what was optional in a Z31 300zx, C4 Corvette, etc, I'd suggest starting with an Arduino. The Oil Pressure, Fuel Level and Temperature senders can be biased with resistors and then given 5v so they behave as a Voltage Divider, like the Map and TPS sensors do. The resistor needs to be as close to the MIDDLE of the sender's range in order to behave correctly.
The Arduino natively understands 0-5v signals, so doing this turns them into a 0-1023 memory value that you can program the Arduino to do something with, such as moving a stepper motor, turn on a light, sweep over a LED bar graph, etc.
Here's an over-simplified example of what your desired code will basically do, using 10 LEDs for your intended display:
Read Pin 13 "Oil Pressure"
If Value =0~100, Write Pin 14 High (0-10 psi, Pin 14 has 5v)
If Value=101~200, Write Pin 15 High (10-20psi, Pin 15 has 5v)
If Value=201~300, Write Pin 16 High (20-30psi, Pin 16 has 5v)
and so on until you get to Value 1023 which is the LOWEST resistance the sender normally outputs (arduino sees 5v for this). Usually represents maximum oil pressure, max fuel, crazy stupid overheated engine, you get the idea.
You can see an example of the concept in action here, using a potentiometer to simulate the sender's signal:
https://create.arduino.cc/projecthub...r-graph-7e6212
Values may need to be tweaked to suit your senders' individual ranges, the real magic is all in the code. The above link includes an example of the code they used for it. Adjust the values to suit your needs and you'll be halfway there. Aaron Cake goes much further into Arduinos and cluster mods on his 1976 Cosmo here:
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 17
Likes: 5
From: Spain
You're in for an uphill battle. You might be worlds ahead going to an aftermarket ECU that supports a plug-in digital dash like Haltech.
Speedometers read in pulses. RPM is voltage I think. Oil pressure, fuel level, coolant temp is resistance. Idiot lights are circuits either going to ground or 12v.
To pull this off you'd need a deep knowledge of automotive 12v electronics, digital to analog conversion, microcontroller design and programming.....it's a big ask. Or just plug stuff in with a Haltech and make it work.
Or, just use the stock cluster that works just fine.
Dale
Speedometers read in pulses. RPM is voltage I think. Oil pressure, fuel level, coolant temp is resistance. Idiot lights are circuits either going to ground or 12v.
To pull this off you'd need a deep knowledge of automotive 12v electronics, digital to analog conversion, microcontroller design and programming.....it's a big ask. Or just plug stuff in with a Haltech and make it work.
Or, just use the stock cluster that works just fine.
Dale
I'm running my FD with a Link G4+ ECU with CANBUS capabilities, and I already thought on using that. The problem is that only he basic wiring to this Link is done, so everything related to indicators, or additional information not strictly necessary to make the ECU work, is not there and it would be even more work to get it.
Actually, what I have in mind is to create something simple that at some point, can replace OEM gauge cluster in case it gets broken (mine has odometer failing randomly) since they are quite rare and prices are going higher and higher.
Best regards.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 17
Likes: 5
From: Spain
You should hook up with the guy that started this post - https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-gene...-dash-1152372/
Looks like he's pretty far along at doing exactly what you're looking at doing, big exception being he appears to be designing his display to work with CAN bus, so it's better suited to aftermarket ECU's. Once you deep dive into the FD's FSM/wiring diagrams you'll soon see that the stock dash inputs consist of a gaggle of discrete analog & digital/switch inputs feeding instruments.
Looks like he's pretty far along at doing exactly what you're looking at doing, big exception being he appears to be designing his display to work with CAN bus, so it's better suited to aftermarket ECU's. Once you deep dive into the FD's FSM/wiring diagrams you'll soon see that the stock dash inputs consist of a gaggle of discrete analog & digital/switch inputs feeding instruments.
I'll contact him to check if he can help me somehow on my "project" (right now is just an idea).
Best regards.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 17
Likes: 5
From: Spain
In 2012, I built a simulator box that generated every signal a RX-7 cluster would receive. Fuel, Temperature, Oil Pressure are all Resistance meters, referenced to ground, while the Boost gauge is a 5v Voltage Divider (0-5v range). Speedo and Tach are 12v pulses, so I used an Arduino and suitable code with a keypad. Just input the frequency desired, press a button and see the gauge go to the corresponding reading. Per Granny's Speed Shop, 120hz signal on the Tach signal pin makes it read 3600rpm.
https://grannys.tripod.com/rx7tachrecal.html
As for the FC and earlier speedometers, I just used an extra speedometer cable with a household drill, using a Dimmer Switch to control the speed. The drill I used had a maximum speed of 3000rpm, so I calibrated the Dimmer switch by going up from 0 until the Speedometer hit 60mph (1024 rpm, close enough to 1000) and marked the Dimmer Switch's cover plate with "33%" to match.
If you REALLY want to build a digital cluster, similar to what was optional in a Z31 300zx, C4 Corvette, etc, I'd suggest starting with an Arduino. The Oil Pressure, Fuel Level and Temperature senders can be biased with resistors and then given 5v so they behave as a Voltage Divider, like the Map and TPS sensors do. The resistor needs to be as close to the MIDDLE of the sender's range in order to behave correctly.
The Arduino natively understands 0-5v signals, so doing this turns them into a 0-1023 memory value that you can program the Arduino to do something with, such as moving a stepper motor, turn on a light, sweep over a LED bar graph, etc.
Here's an over-simplified example of what your desired code will basically do, using 10 LEDs for your intended display:
Read Pin 13 "Oil Pressure"
If Value =0~100, Write Pin 14 High (0-10 psi, Pin 14 has 5v)
If Value=101~200, Write Pin 15 High (10-20psi, Pin 15 has 5v)
If Value=201~300, Write Pin 16 High (20-30psi, Pin 16 has 5v)
and so on until you get to Value 1023 which is the LOWEST resistance the sender normally outputs (arduino sees 5v for this). Usually represents maximum oil pressure, max fuel, crazy stupid overheated engine, you get the idea.
You can see an example of the concept in action here, using a potentiometer to simulate the sender's signal:
https://create.arduino.cc/projecthub...r-graph-7e6212
Values may need to be tweaked to suit your senders' individual ranges, the real magic is all in the code. The above link includes an example of the code they used for it. Adjust the values to suit your needs and you'll be halfway there. Aaron Cake goes much further into Arduinos and cluster mods on his 1976 Cosmo here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HLoYRv2thwc
https://grannys.tripod.com/rx7tachrecal.html
As for the FC and earlier speedometers, I just used an extra speedometer cable with a household drill, using a Dimmer Switch to control the speed. The drill I used had a maximum speed of 3000rpm, so I calibrated the Dimmer switch by going up from 0 until the Speedometer hit 60mph (1024 rpm, close enough to 1000) and marked the Dimmer Switch's cover plate with "33%" to match.
If you REALLY want to build a digital cluster, similar to what was optional in a Z31 300zx, C4 Corvette, etc, I'd suggest starting with an Arduino. The Oil Pressure, Fuel Level and Temperature senders can be biased with resistors and then given 5v so they behave as a Voltage Divider, like the Map and TPS sensors do. The resistor needs to be as close to the MIDDLE of the sender's range in order to behave correctly.
The Arduino natively understands 0-5v signals, so doing this turns them into a 0-1023 memory value that you can program the Arduino to do something with, such as moving a stepper motor, turn on a light, sweep over a LED bar graph, etc.
Here's an over-simplified example of what your desired code will basically do, using 10 LEDs for your intended display:
Read Pin 13 "Oil Pressure"
If Value =0~100, Write Pin 14 High (0-10 psi, Pin 14 has 5v)
If Value=101~200, Write Pin 15 High (10-20psi, Pin 15 has 5v)
If Value=201~300, Write Pin 16 High (20-30psi, Pin 16 has 5v)
and so on until you get to Value 1023 which is the LOWEST resistance the sender normally outputs (arduino sees 5v for this). Usually represents maximum oil pressure, max fuel, crazy stupid overheated engine, you get the idea.
You can see an example of the concept in action here, using a potentiometer to simulate the sender's signal:
https://create.arduino.cc/projecthub...r-graph-7e6212
Values may need to be tweaked to suit your senders' individual ranges, the real magic is all in the code. The above link includes an example of the code they used for it. Adjust the values to suit your needs and you'll be halfway there. Aaron Cake goes much further into Arduinos and cluster mods on his 1976 Cosmo here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HLoYRv2thwc
Correct, I'm starting this with Arduino and in case everything works, I will think moving it to a different platform.
Thank you very much for all this information, it is very usefull.
Best regards.
You should hook up with the guy that started this post - https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-gene...-dash-1152372/
Looks like he's pretty far along at doing exactly what you're looking at doing, big exception being he appears to be designing his display to work with CAN bus, so it's better suited to aftermarket ECU's. Once you deep dive into the FD's FSM/wiring diagrams you'll soon see that the stock dash inputs consist of a gaggle of discrete analog & digital/switch inputs feeding instruments.
Looks like he's pretty far along at doing exactly what you're looking at doing, big exception being he appears to be designing his display to work with CAN bus, so it's better suited to aftermarket ECU's. Once you deep dive into the FD's FSM/wiring diagrams you'll soon see that the stock dash inputs consist of a gaggle of discrete analog & digital/switch inputs feeding instruments.
I've looked into making my digital cluster a plug and play unit that would accept the factory connectors and act as an OEM replace unit. It could easily be done as long as you find/make your own female connectors but after thinking about it, I've decided to keep my gauge cluster bespoke as it makes my FD a little more "special". I'm honestly a beginner at programming and the work required to make this a commercially viable product is beyond what I want to put into it.
I love this kind of innovation with our cars though and I hope the FD chassis keeps evolving and keeping with the times. I'm definitely down to help whenever I can with anyone's project, just shoot me a PM with any questions.
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,772
Likes: 144
From: Colorado Springs, CO
I've started looking into this as well. Since 2013 I've had a Speedhut tach, speedo, and fuel level gauge with a couple Spa dual digital gauges but one of the Spa gauges failed recently. Speedhut no longer sells nor services my generation of gauges so I'm unable to just buy a couple to take the place of the Spa gauges, and if I bought a new set of Speedhut gauges I wouldn't be able to keep cruise control. I have a Haltech, and a UC10 would obviously be the easiest, but I prefer to keep the stock gauge holes, and I'd rather not have any logos that aren't Mazda or rotary related, and prefer to have it a little more customizable.
So this is leading me towards a custom digital setup. However, I know nothing about this and have done nothing similar. I've learned a very little just doing research the past few days. I've found some parts that I assume should work but I have no idea. Some 2.1", 4", and 4.2" round displays. 4.2" is the largest round display I could find with a decent brightness, and the hole for the tach isn't much bigger than 4". I was thinking about doing a flexible fabric so it could bend around the curve of the gauge cluster, but it's not bright enough.
https://newhavendisplay.com/2-1-inch...t-lcd-display/ - 2.1" display
https://www.adafruit.com/product/5806 - 2.1" round TFT display (not currently available, but looks like it might be the same as the one from NewHaven)
https://www.adafruit.com/product/5793 - 4" round TFT display
https://www.andersdx.com/4.2inch-cir...specifications - 4.2" display
I'm planning on running CAN from the ECU to handle most of the things, but obviously fuel level and a couple other things will have to be managed another way. I'm also curious whether these can be daisy chained, run in parallel, each with their own board, or however to get them to cooperate together. One of my concerns is having it boot up as fast as it does for undesiredshoe. So I'm not sure if I should go with Raspberry Pi, Arduino, or what. So far, the ones from RPi don't look like they boot fast at all, but maybe that's due to it being bloated. No idea.
Any help is appreciated. At this point I'm thinking about stopping by MicroCenter in Denver and seeing what they can teach me lol. I've read through a few of the threads on here, and I have a local friend that knows a bit that said he'll help too.
So this is leading me towards a custom digital setup. However, I know nothing about this and have done nothing similar. I've learned a very little just doing research the past few days. I've found some parts that I assume should work but I have no idea. Some 2.1", 4", and 4.2" round displays. 4.2" is the largest round display I could find with a decent brightness, and the hole for the tach isn't much bigger than 4". I was thinking about doing a flexible fabric so it could bend around the curve of the gauge cluster, but it's not bright enough.
https://newhavendisplay.com/2-1-inch...t-lcd-display/ - 2.1" display
https://www.adafruit.com/product/5806 - 2.1" round TFT display (not currently available, but looks like it might be the same as the one from NewHaven)
https://www.adafruit.com/product/5793 - 4" round TFT display
https://www.andersdx.com/4.2inch-cir...specifications - 4.2" display
I'm planning on running CAN from the ECU to handle most of the things, but obviously fuel level and a couple other things will have to be managed another way. I'm also curious whether these can be daisy chained, run in parallel, each with their own board, or however to get them to cooperate together. One of my concerns is having it boot up as fast as it does for undesiredshoe. So I'm not sure if I should go with Raspberry Pi, Arduino, or what. So far, the ones from RPi don't look like they boot fast at all, but maybe that's due to it being bloated. No idea.
Any help is appreciated. At this point I'm thinking about stopping by MicroCenter in Denver and seeing what they can teach me lol. I've read through a few of the threads on here, and I have a local friend that knows a bit that said he'll help too.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 17
Likes: 5
From: Spain
Long time since I wrote here last post. I started working on this like two years ago but then I stoped the project. Last week, and after having a conversation with a colleague, I decided to restart the project, and indeed I've made some good progress. Here you have what I've got until now:
This is now fully working but there is something I don't like. In these videos, speed is being acquired via GPS. I've been working in a small circuit (with octocoplers) where I can connect the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) and read transformed signal with a microcontroller that sends speed info to my system via CAN. This was not tested yet in the car but using a pulse generator and so far, it works great.
My "big" problem here is the following. I would like to build something as much plug & play as possible, so I don't want to mess with original cabling. Because of this, I would like to find both male and female connectors for cabling arriving to the dash, so I can create some kind of "extension" harness that I place in between car cabling and dash, and extract from there all signals I need for my system. Any idea on the reference for these connectors and where can they be found?
Thank you very much in advance for your help on this.
This is now fully working but there is something I don't like. In these videos, speed is being acquired via GPS. I've been working in a small circuit (with octocoplers) where I can connect the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) and read transformed signal with a microcontroller that sends speed info to my system via CAN. This was not tested yet in the car but using a pulse generator and so far, it works great.
My "big" problem here is the following. I would like to build something as much plug & play as possible, so I don't want to mess with original cabling. Because of this, I would like to find both male and female connectors for cabling arriving to the dash, so I can create some kind of "extension" harness that I place in between car cabling and dash, and extract from there all signals I need for my system. Any idea on the reference for these connectors and where can they be found?
Thank you very much in advance for your help on this.
Long time since I wrote here last post. I started working on this like two years ago but then I stoped the project. Last week, and after having a conversation with a colleague, I decided to restart the project, and indeed I've made some good progress. Here you have what I've got until now:
https://youtu.be/oKvH7O26cNM
https://youtu.be/8SIMhlpGFpo
https://youtu.be/qHUZBa3MBCw
This is now fully working but there is something I don't like. In these videos, speed is being acquired via GPS. I've been working in a small circuit (with octocoplers) where I can connect the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) and read transformed signal with a microcontroller that sends speed info to my system via CAN. This was not tested yet in the car but using a pulse generator and so far, it works great.
My "big" problem here is the following. I would like to build something as much plug & play as possible, so I don't want to mess with original cabling. Because of this, I would like to find both male and female connectors for cabling arriving to the dash, so I can create some kind of "extension" harness that I place in between car cabling and dash, and extract from there all signals I need for my system. Any idea on the reference for these connectors and where can they be found?
Thank you very much in advance for your help on this.
https://youtu.be/oKvH7O26cNM
https://youtu.be/8SIMhlpGFpo
https://youtu.be/qHUZBa3MBCw
This is now fully working but there is something I don't like. In these videos, speed is being acquired via GPS. I've been working in a small circuit (with octocoplers) where I can connect the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) and read transformed signal with a microcontroller that sends speed info to my system via CAN. This was not tested yet in the car but using a pulse generator and so far, it works great.
My "big" problem here is the following. I would like to build something as much plug & play as possible, so I don't want to mess with original cabling. Because of this, I would like to find both male and female connectors for cabling arriving to the dash, so I can create some kind of "extension" harness that I place in between car cabling and dash, and extract from there all signals I need for my system. Any idea on the reference for these connectors and where can they be found?
Thank you very much in advance for your help on this.
Finding those connectors (C-01 on the FSM wiring diagram) might be a challenge. Haven't done anything with the cluster yet, but for other FD automotive connectors (e.g., X14, X05, CAS connectors, etc.), I've had good luck reaching out to Corsa-Tecnic. If you can't find it on their website, just call them & send them some pictures of the connectors you're trying to find mates for. If it exists in production somewhere, they'll find it & sell you one for a fair price.
https://www.corsa-technic.com/index.php
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,772
Likes: 144
From: Colorado Springs, CO
I second Corsa-Technic, they're great to deal with. They've helped me find connectors in the past. I don't believe you'll find a mate for those; I've looked myself, but I didn't have them look so there's still a chance. I believe I found the original connectors on their site and they didn't have a mate assigned to them.
The dash looks good! I've been working on my own dash as well, although it's one screen. I've been having plenty of issues but we're still sorting through everything.
The dash looks good! I've been working on my own dash as well, although it's one screen. I've been having plenty of issues but we're still sorting through everything.
Long time since I wrote here last post. I started working on this like two years ago but then I stoped the project. Last week, and after having a conversation with a colleague, I decided to restart the project, and indeed I've made some good progress. Here you have what I've got until now:
https://youtu.be/oKvH7O26cNM
https://youtu.be/8SIMhlpGFpo
https://youtu.be/qHUZBa3MBCw
This is now fully working but there is something I don't like. In these videos, speed is being acquired via GPS. I've been working in a small circuit (with octocoplers) where I can connect the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) and read transformed signal with a microcontroller that sends speed info to my system via CAN. This was not tested yet in the car but using a pulse generator and so far, it works great.
My "big" problem here is the following. I would like to build something as much plug & play as possible, so I don't want to mess with original cabling. Because of this, I would like to find both male and female connectors for cabling arriving to the dash, so I can create some kind of "extension" harness that I place in between car cabling and dash, and extract from there all signals I need for my system. Any idea on the reference for these connectors and where can they be found?
Thank you very much in advance for your help on this.
https://youtu.be/oKvH7O26cNM
https://youtu.be/8SIMhlpGFpo
https://youtu.be/qHUZBa3MBCw
This is now fully working but there is something I don't like. In these videos, speed is being acquired via GPS. I've been working in a small circuit (with octocoplers) where I can connect the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) and read transformed signal with a microcontroller that sends speed info to my system via CAN. This was not tested yet in the car but using a pulse generator and so far, it works great.
My "big" problem here is the following. I would like to build something as much plug & play as possible, so I don't want to mess with original cabling. Because of this, I would like to find both male and female connectors for cabling arriving to the dash, so I can create some kind of "extension" harness that I place in between car cabling and dash, and extract from there all signals I need for my system. Any idea on the reference for these connectors and where can they be found?
Thank you very much in advance for your help on this.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 17
Likes: 5
From: Spain
- System booting:
- Car running:
- Driving:
I hope you like it.
That is not a problem. This fully suppport CANBUS. Indeed, I'm reading some signals directly from harness with an ESP32, and then, via CAN sending it to my system. However, I wanted to do a real first test running on my car, and this is what I've got:
I hope you like it.
- System booting:
- Car running:
- Driving:
I hope you like it.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 17
Likes: 5
From: Spain
I've got this in Aliexpress (Wisecoco brand). They are 250 nits, and even I would love that they have more, they are not bad as you can see in videos (it was a quite sunny day when I recorded videos).
Oh they are quite readable. This is good news. I did order some 300 nit units but thought I needed more.
I'm currently using a single device to display Realdash but may need to move to two separate devices because I can't get realdash to fullscreen across both displays. I'm going to try fooling with i3 tiling windows manager to see if that works.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 430
Likes: 321
From: SoCal
Joining along side ya on this. Made a similar graphic as yours since it works so well.
I'm currently using a single device to display Realdash but may need to move to two separate devices because I can't get realdash to fullscreen across both displays. I'm going to try fooling with i3 tiling windows manager to see if that works.
https://youtube.com/shorts/c2NhVTSTE...DO2mP-RuWicBtq
I'm currently using a single device to display Realdash but may need to move to two separate devices because I can't get realdash to fullscreen across both displays. I'm going to try fooling with i3 tiling windows manager to see if that works.
https://youtube.com/shorts/c2NhVTSTE...DO2mP-RuWicBtq
I like my dash but if i was going to do redo it i would have probably ask you to make something like this for me haha