Has anyone else here done this before? I am ballin' on a budget here and need some information. I already found the ignition base map so I more or less know that it will run fine as N/A just wondering if I need to install resistors on any connectors to keep the ECU from flipping out.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

BTW, It is for a Peripheral Port powered N/A FD.

 

i just got finished putting an REW and stock ecu into my FC, and the ECU made me wire up almost everything before it didn't have a fuel cut...

i would just buy a bunch of 15ohm resistors, or build a rack for all the solenoids/stuff you aren't using, so that they can all stay electrically plugged in, that way the ECU is happy, and you shouldn't have to worry about it.

if you did a resistor pack it could be made to be pretty small

 

Thanks for the input! Since I am not using the fuel side of the computer at all it should not have too many issues. I know it has a good OMP and I am connecting Knock sensor, temp sensor and switch (still using the stock wiring for the fans) I'll post up results.

Thanks again.

 

well who knows what timing does when it hits fuel cut? i'm really early in my testing but even the EGT management is very different between the FC and the FD, and its only like ~10 wires, i'd hook everything up.

the bonus is that the CEL will actually still work

 

probably mainly need the omp, map, iat, coolent temp, tps, and cas connected for it to operate the timing portion properly( or close to it). perhaps the knock sensor as well.


when i was running the fd na , i had pretty much the whole solenoid rack unplugged, and it was throwing 9 different codes and seemed to run fine.

you could probably eliminate several of the sensors if they failsafe unplugged to a desireable setting

 

you've got me interested in this now haha.... looking through the fsm

actually looking like iat, and coolent temp may not play a roll in the timing after all...

 

As I said, anything you guys can share will be very helpful. In the meantime, I will be out in the garage buttoning it all up.

 

As for coolant temp, I want the fans to work as designed. I definitely need that working right.

 

its really simple, Arghx has a nice write up on it. basically though, there are 4 fan relays, and 2, two speed fan motors. the ECU looks at coolant temp, the E/L unit on US cars and the fan switch.

fan speed 1, is with 1 relay powering both fan motors.
fan speed 2, there is 1 relay for each motor
and then the high is 4 relays for each motor.

 

lol, this is dumb, but all the failsafes don't let you run more than 1psi, so it should do NA....

 

Very nice to know.
I have most of it buttoned up, just need to hook up fuel, ecu, and header. Will post back later.

 

Started right up!

https://www.facebook.com/jesus.cales...f&notif_t=like

 

^no fun, can't see it

 

Silly question but just cause you are going NA, why do you want to use carbs??, that direction will leave lots if power on the table.

 

Bro get a standalone. You are going to end up with a car slower than stock. You can run a lot more timing on an N/A car. I have used power fcs on N/A cars before with good results. You can pick up a good sued one for $5-600.

 

the P port is going to have a higher VE under 2500 and over 5k rpms, so if anything its going to want less timing.

keep in mind that the P port is going to make 50hp MORE than the REW.

 

Well with the vacuum signal being weaker on a p-port it will have less timing anyway as it tapers to the 0hg range.

Does anyone have information on the stock ECU logic and what it does based on specific inputs?

 

Well an update on this. I am almost done fabricating the TPS mount and will have more to report soon.

As for timing, at idle, 1800rpm it sits right at 18*BTDC. As soon as I give it throttle it drops to TDC which keeps it from reving over 3500, once it senses vacuum again then it goes back to 18*BTDC.

I will continue to play with this and keep you guys and gals informed.

 

hmm, actually see what it does with the MAP sensor unplugged.

 

With it unplugged it locks the timing at TDC. Now I know that I can slot the trigger wheel and move it over to where it needs to be for this motor. I'll post pics and results tomorrow.

 

Well I got everything working and the car runs great.

I do have one issue with the car after a very hard braking event. I jammed on the brakes pretty hard and it started to sound like it was flooding. If I revi it up past 5k it runs perfect but would not hold an idle. I messed with it yesterday and could not get a signal on my leading spark plug wires. So I put 2 different wires on there and a clean set of plugs, the ones I removed had a bit of fuel on them. Now I was getting signal off the wire for my timing light from the L2 spark plug but not L1, Car fired right up with NO PROBLEMS! I ran it for about 5 minutes and shut it off. Tried to start it 2 hours later and the same thing. Has anyone else had fowling problems similar to this before?

 

I swapped in new plugs and wires, as well as a different leading coil. All is perfect again.