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<<<<Still have the #2 Check engine Light>>>>>>>

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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 03:44 AM
  #1  
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From: Houston Tx
Exclamation <<<<Still have the #2 Check engine Light>>>>>>>

Ok i think this will be the 4 Thread on here that i have posted on this subject, I have really and trully done everthing i can think of and alot of ideas that you all have told me to try.

Ok
Quick Back ground on problem and car.
93 R1 Auto DP (Thats it, Mosly Stock)

I am getting a #2 Check Engine light ( That is it no #3) , i have cleared the code a billion times trying to track the problem down.

The Code is there all the time, even if i clear it and then just turn the ignition on (Without Cranking the Motor).

Step
#1 Checked the CAS (NE) Ohm'ed out to 1.13 KOhm's ( Within Spec )(Changed anyways to make sure , Nothing differnt)

#2 Checked the Wiring going from the sensor to the ECU, Ohm'ed out perfect. ( But just incase something was messed up i changed the wires BOTH NE and G signals. THe wire is good sheilded wire. ( Pic Below )



Still have the Code.....

#3 Changed the ECU with 3 differnent Units that where known good, they also show a code.

The thing that is driving my nuts is, I have SPARK on ever plug, in the correct order also. But it is hard to start, if it does at all, Thinking that the fuel injectors and not firing or are dirty. So i sent the injectors to be cleaned. This was after i changed the fuel pump and fuel filter. (What a pain in the ***) If when i get them back and the motor will not start i will be re-doing the wires on the fuel injectors. On a Side NOTE: How do you do the mod that makes the fuel pump run in high all the time, i may just search for it, but if someone has the answer quick that would be nice.

So i dont no where to go now, i have changed everthing that deals with the CAS'ors. If the ECU was not getting a signal then there should not be a spark, but there is, that's what is Stupping me ......

This is where i am, There has been a few people that have this same problem and they have never found the problem.

I am REALLY thinking about going to Haltech or something like that, this way i no ever sonnection is new.
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 03:46 AM
  #2  
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From: Houston Tx
Sorry about the long Post
Now i no why people drink if they have these cars
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 06:57 AM
  #3  
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From: San Diego, CA
i got check engine light so much i pulled the bulb out. hahah im an idiot.
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 11:18 AM
  #4  
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From: Seymour, TN
have your ecu wiring been cut or spliced? And you can wire up your fuel pump in the diagnostics box by running a wire between fuel pump and grnd i believe.
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 12:06 PM
  #5  
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From: Cary, NC
I am having problems with code #2 also. May I ask you where you get the replacement wires.
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 12:10 PM
  #6  
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From: Omaha, NE
Originally Posted by saburo
i got check engine light so much i pulled the bulb out. hahah im an idiot.

LOL, done that before too
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 01:47 PM
  #7  
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From: Houston Tx
Originally Posted by KungFuMonkey
I am having problems with code #2 also. May I ask you where you get the replacement wires.

Made them, If you need a set i could make two for about 10 bucks plus shipping, if you send me two CAS connectors.

I am really thinking about re-doing the entire ECU wiring harness (ECU to Engine)

I am Great at making connections and have all the sheilded wire that i can use. Plus i have two extra harneses to get the connections off of.



Nothing on the wiring harness has been cut.

Thanks
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 02:35 PM
  #8  
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From: tampa
how is the air gap between the sensor and the tang on the crank pully?
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 02:40 PM
  #9  
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From: so. cal
^ i was gonna say that.

have you checked to make sure your wheel isn't bent?
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 03:04 PM
  #10  
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From: Houston Tx
Originally Posted by mad_7tist
how is the air gap between the sensor and the tang on the crank pully?

It is within spec, But even if it wasnt, When you clear the code. Then turn the key on (Not trying to crank it) you get the Check engine light, Jump the wire to check what code it is and there it is agian.

What is the Voltag suppost to be going to the CAS. Could not find that one out in the Manual.
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 08:32 PM
  #11  
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From: Houston Tx
Small bump^
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Old Jul 2, 2005 | 11:39 AM
  #12  
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From: tampa
well if the code keeps coming back after clearing it without running the car i would have to say it is a wiring break. disconnect the sensor and the ecu then ohm the wires between the ecu connector and the cas plug. how do the pins look in the cas coinnector is the connection good? make sure the pins and sides in the connector are nice and flush/tight
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Old Jul 10, 2005 | 04:53 AM
  #13  
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From: Houston Tx
**** PROBLEM FIXED *****

You will never guess what the problem was......

I had to put in a push button start when the igniton switch shorted out on me (Still would turn on but when you went to start positon it would start smoking).

Well i was bord and decided to remove the ign switch and see if i could fix it, so i would have the key and a button if i wanted. Well i took it apart and cleaned the contacts and put some new di-electr grease in there, Worked perfect. Then i was like maybe this was the problem. So i cleared the code and guess what it is still gone. I dont no how or why, but i guess that the starter wire off the ign switch had 12v all the time and the computer didnt like that.

I would like to thank everone that tryed to help me out. , I am going to have a shot of everclear now for my victory...... ( i no what you are saying EVERCLEAR, well i am a diebetic and everclear and Diet Coke has no sugar in it)
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