FabC_FD

So im starting a full build on my FD,
i live In NY,
My goal is to have a strong reliable fun street car.
400+ hp

im planning to Buy a new motor from mazda, so Stock ports.
go single turbo, upgrade fuel system, vmount set up.
i already have a Power FC, HKS twin power, Blitz Nur-spec Cat back. Bc coilovers on the way.
im a elevator mechanic and always worked on my own cars , i have access to a shop and a lift, so i will be doing most of the work myself except for the tuning... i like to do things the right way and do them once i rather over build the car now and not worry about it later on....
Ive done alot of searching on forums and have found alot of info, but alot of threads are also outdated i would like to know what are the current best parts out there.

so my questions are:
Turbo ?????? What turbo is best for the power i want and has a quick spool and dont lose top end power (have a friend with a precision 60-1 set up full kit , i might buy from him) i dont know much about turbos tbh

what fuel pump is best for me? E85 capable/ without any extra modifications

fuel injectors? E85 capable

vmount set up? Should i buy a kit or make one myself ? Whats the most cost effective solution

what else is needed for the car to be tuned propery on a power FC ecu... i want to make the tuners job as easy as possible


any info is appreciated

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

The new Borg Warner EFR internal wastegate turbos are fantastic. The 8374 does amazing on a rotary, great response and low-end torque and power well into the 400+ HP range.

Going full single turbo can be expensive, another route is the BNR twins. People have made 400 to the ground with the BNR's with a working sequential system and all the low-end response you get with sequential twins.

For a V-mount, the Greddy V-mount is super popular. Complete kit, easy to bolt in, comes with all the brackets and hardware. The end result is fantastic, great cooling and solid quality. About $2500 or so for the kit. Doing a different V-mount or a roll your own can work but the amount of time and fab work goes up exponentially. When I did my IC setup I would easily spend an entire day just making ONE bracket so having a complete kit can very much be worth it.

I'd go Walbro on the fuel pump. They have some new options as well. You will also need to upgrade fuel injectors, the stock injectors won't be up to the job.

Of course you'll need other parts - mid pipe or high flow cat, an intake, replacing parts that need it like coolant lines, etc. Also budget a good clutch and maybe a light flywheel, stock clutch won't be up to the job.

You should also consider upgrading the apex seals in the motor to aftermarket ones like I-Rotary or RX-Parts. That gives a LOT of insurance against detonation.

For tuning, IR Performance in New Jersey has an excellent tuner and a dyno to tune on and they are relatively close to you.

Oh, BTW, that Blitz Nur-spec is going to be OBNOXIOUSLY loud when you open up the rest of the exhaust, even more so if you go single turbo. May have to change that out.

Dale

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

What is your budget like, and what is the car's current status? If you're new to RX-7's then I'd recommend starting with 350whp as the goal. It's cheaper/easier to hit and safely maintain. You can EASILY drop a bunch of money into these cars if you want to go wild on the build and only use top tier or 1-off items....

The first thing I'd do is list that a'pexi PFC and Twin Power up for sale. There are SIGNIFICANTLY better products commonly available these days!!! AEM Infinity and Haltech Elite ecus are available at entry-level pricing but come with incredibly advanced features when compared to the PFC's 90's tech.

Likewise, IGN-1A coils are very commonly available now and quite robust.

Additionally, I'd look into having a quality engine harness built, it'll save you a lot of time and hassle chasing gremlins from old and tired out wiring.

b3delta

iTrader: (2)

I second what fendamonkey said. These aren't the simple tuners like a WRX where you can change a couple things cheaply and whammy. These things have late 80s/early90s tech in em, which means either you continue to run with it (risky - who knows when itll fail), or you upgrade to modern stuff (expensive and requires wiring/modifications). I'd plan everything out, plus reliability mods.
First things first, you wanna do it right and not have to buy things twice. You have the computer, throw in a rotary performance fuel rail with the 2200cc injectors and a walbro 450, then an IGN-1A kit and your fuel/ignition is covered. Single turbo, sweet you can remove a lot of vacuum operated crap - which leads to what fendamonkey said about a new emission harness. In going single and removing the rat's nest you'll likely have more stuff unplugged from the emission harness than plugged - plus it's old and crispy. Sell the solenoids here and get a harness/make a new one.
Enter the rabbit hole....
Since the engine bay is apart for the turbo swap and you've gone for a new harness, throw in a new trigger wheel, fast acting intake air sensor, MAC EBCS, flex fuel sensor, EGT sensors, It all keeps building on itself, while you're doing one thing...might as well do others while it's apart.
Might as well make everything E85 compatible. Dale's recommendation of the BW 8374 is a good one as well - I've heard nothing but great stuff about the EFRs

Jspaid142

iTrader: (3)

I second ditching the PFC. Best thing I ever did was switch over to Haltech elite! You don't realize how dated and lacking the PFC is until you start using a modern ECU.

As others have said, replacing the wiring harness will save you a lot of time and frustation as well.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

The PowerFC isn't the latest and greatest but it is a solid computer and has been documented to death. It's also going to be about half the cost of a Haltech.

I'd research both ways and make your own decision on it.

Also, you can make 350 hp on the stock twins with bolt-ons and a good tune. Fantastic thread from Banzai Racing here -

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...added-1104322/

One thing to keep in mind is the FD doesn't have traction control or anything. When you start making a LOT of power it will primarily turn tires into smoke.

Dale

b3delta

iTrader: (2)

Isn't that the point?!?!

FabC_FD

Thanks for the replies , Very helpful !

i like that idea to do the BNR Twins .. i dont want want to go crazy on this build Since i’ll be doing alot myself. Also i really want to keep her looking as stock and clean as possible i want to enjoy the car. My plan is to build a clean , classy car with tasteful mods...
Also i dont want to have to buy things twice. I would like to keep my budget for engine related things under 10000 Im going to stick with the PFC and i deffinately going to need to get a harness made or make one since the engine will be out anyways. Have to do more research on what harnesses are out there for me.
I’ll see if i can sell the hks. And get the IGN-1A kit


-If i go the route of BNR twins, should i even open up the new motor and do those upgrades inside. Like pinning, seals etc?

what clutch is good for that set up these days , and comfortable in stop and go traffic?

FabC_FD

haha your right in some cases but i plan on building an fc that i can drift with my engine im pulling out in the future. The fd i would like to hold its value

newtgomez

You're going to be making some compromises keeping the budget under 10k, but it still might be possible assuming you do all of your labor.
As far as turbos go, the Borg Warner S362 is a great size for the budget minded. I believe it spools slower than an EFR 8374, but puts out amazing mid and top range through the reliability of a journal bearing turbo. Somewhere around a T4 housing with a 1.0 A/R would be around a good size if you want external gates. If you want more simplicity though, the EFR 8374 with the internal gate is really hard to beat as you wouldn't have to spend the money on a blow off valve, boost solenoid, or wastegate and you get the insane low spool with easy packaging for just a few dollars more.
If you know how to fab and have access to a welder, you can save thousands building your own manifold, downpipe, intercooler system, and v mount kit.
I would definitely recommend the Haltech Elite 1500 with their basic harness since FD plugs are really easy to track down through ballenger motorsports.
I would recommend IGN-1A coils (But the HKS twin power should be okay) and a new injector and fuel rail system as top feeds are nicer to work with and you don't have to stress over having the injector diffusers cracking and going in to your engine. Radium sells really nice rails and should be able to set you up for all of your fueling needs including fittings and hoses.
You should also heavily consider water/meth injection or some form of alternative fueling for safety purposes.
Also, don't forget about oil cooling. Twin 19 row coolers are recommended, but a pair of 25 row coolers are extremely nice to have for extra head room.
All in all, you get more out of these cars the more you spend and single turbo conversions aren't an easy over night process. I personally think that stock or 99 twins are plenty to keep a smile on your face for little cost especially if you throw a 4.44 final drive in your diff.

Djseto

iTrader: (2)

I have a BW S362SXE turbo and while I like it, if I had to do it again, I’d go with a BW EFR turbo. When you add in costs for external wastegate(s) etc, it really isn’t much cheaper. As for single or twins, I would have kept twins if my car had come with it. I came to that conclusion after driving @DaleClark car. Felt like driving a V8. Torque everywhere!

lastly, def plan to spend (way) more than you want to. I thought I could get away with 10-12k on mine. I’m sitting at 25k right now and I’m still not done granted some of that was labor for engine work I didn’t wanna take on myself and my car was sitting in a field for 5 years but everything adds up a few hundred at a time on these things. Go check out the build thread sub group. You will see plenty of setups there for sure.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Remember you don't have to do EVERYTHING at once. Do something, save up, do the next thing. Or, one thing I've done, is have a list going of what I want for the car and keep an eye out for a deal on the part.

Going sub-400 hp on a stock engine is fine. You don't need to worry about the exotic stuff in an engine build until you go well over 400hp or are running a ton of boost.

I would get a good compression test with a rotary engine compression tester to evaluate the health of your engine as it is. If it's healthy, modify it and go. If it's not healthy, you may want to plan on getting things built up. You can look for a shop that has a tester or buy your own. I have this one -

https://www.rotarycompressiontester.com

Love it, it works great and is super easy to use.

I would also let your car tell you what you need as well. It's great to add power and make it crazy fast, but if you have blown out suspension and the brakes are down to nothing that needs to be addressed first. The other biggie is GOOD TIRES, I've seen MANY FD's end up in a ditch because they had crap tires on.

Dale

silverTRD

iTrader: (36)

If I were you I would keep the powerfc and the twin power for now, the ecu wont matter if you don't have a competent tuner to set it up. Dont try to build the car all at once or get wrapped up in build threads. My car sat for YEARS because I tried to do just that. Good luck

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

^YEP. I have seen MANY projects stall because people went too far down the rabbit hole. This is how cars eventually get parted out and interest gets lost. I find it's best to try and do things in small bites and keep the car running. It's also fun to make a change then drive the car and feel how the car reacts after each change.

My car has probably only been down for 1 or 2 months during the 16 years I've owned it.

Dale

b3delta

iTrader: (2)

Even with planning for "down time" things can go wrong or time flies. I moved to CO Springs late 2017, with threat of hail I decided "big project time!", well it's 2020 and I have about a year left here and I'm just starting to put stuff back on but still not done with wiring and crap... I second the idea of little by little, unless you truly have the time and money to go big project.

TomU

iTrader: (11)

There's no such thing as little by little. Do it once and do it right. That said, there are options on how you want to achieve your goals

400+ HP is not stock. Stockish = BNRs, upgraded injectors, Aftermarket SMIC and meth. That's good for 350-400 HP (if you push it).

If you want more, you're looking single turbo and bigger injectors, large IC, dual clutch plate, and extra transmissions and differentials if you go above 450

How much do you want to spend?