Hey all,

I have a 92 RHD FD. Nothing is wrong with the car at all, it runs great — I'd like to keep it that way. I premix ~0.5oz/gal (still have functioning OMP) and there's Seafoam in the gas tank from the winter that I used to stabilize fuel.

I do fresh oil every spring, every ~2,000mi, or every time I really beat the **** out of the car. So oil + filter is a given.

I also have a new-to-me (used) Koyo radiator I'll be installing, so the car will get a pretty thorough coolant flush with distilled water when that happens.

Other than that, at ~60k on the clock, what is some good preventative maintenance I can do?

I was thinking:

• Spark plugs (Any recommendations? Car is stock besides ARC intake box and HKS axle-back. I usually go NGK, not sure if they're good on these cars)
• Fuel filter (Is there a good, cheap relocation kit? I heard fuel filter sucks to get to, above the diff IIRC?)

What else am I missing? Without going overkill, I want to stay on top of it. Thanks!

 

- I would bleed the brake system while you are at it if it is a few years old. That fluid is often overlooked.
- Power steering fluid if it has never been replaced.
- If the fuel filter hasn't been done in the past few years or 15K I personally would do it, they aren't that expensive. If you are ambitious you can convert to a -AN style and mount it to the back of the subframe for easier maintenance in the future (I may do this next time) but that's personal preference. I don't think there is a "cheap" kit to do this, you can fab something up yourself with a custom bracket to just relocate the factory one but if you are prepared with the right tools they really aren't too bad to replace in the factory position.
- Plugs also depend strictly on mileage so that totally depends on when the last time they were replaced. Don't overlook plug wires either. They degrade over time. NGK is the factory go-to for plugs
- I personally would convert to Evans coolant since you are replacing the radiator. It is Lifetime waterless coolant so you don't have to worry about doing that in the future or corroding your irons and you can run a pressure-less system and worry about leaks less.

 

This pertains to all cars essentially but fits your question I believe

 

Not necessarily on board with the AN fittings and Evans but 2nd pretty much everything else above….including NGK plugs (stock heat ranges) and wires.

All fluids getting changed as a baseline for maintenance. PS fluid can be done pretty easily with a syphon bulb but it takes two or three sessions of R & R to get to nice cherry red fluid again. Transmission gear oil is easy to change. Two drain plugs, one fill plug. 75w-90 GL 4-5 . I think most of us these days go with a good synthetic but it’s your call. Same for the Differential. Consult the FSM available in the FAQ stickys and elsewhere for details.

My spring routine usually includes pulling the IC for cleaning/degreasing. I use a utility sink, some mild degreaser or just dish soap, hot water. Let it sit for a bit and a good rinse.

 

+1 to Sgtblue's coments. If you don't know when the spark plugs were last done, do them and the wires. Stock NGK is good but many use 9 heat range plugs all around but I can't remember why...

Power steering fluid is actually ATF. Dexron III iirc. Look it up in the owner's manual or FSM - links in FAQ thread.

Diff oil - I suggest Redline 75/90 without the LSD friction modifier - since the diff is a Torsen not LSD and you don't want the LSD friction modifier with the Torsen. Again, probably in one of the threads in the FAQ. At 60k miles, the diff oil is probably ok but depends on how hard the prior owner used the car so probably worth changing.

Do a coolant system pressure test after you install the radiator to check for leaks. Use a Lisle funnel to help bleed the coolant system of air. Again, links in the FAQ thread.

Fuel filter is a serious pita ime but worth doing to baseline the maintenance on the car.

 

The fuel filter job does suck, but it doesn’t need changing all THAT often given that these cars are rarely a DD anymore. Over the years I’ve done mine about every 30k or so. I’m fortunate to have a 2-post lift that almost halves the naughty words, so never committed to a relocation kit. But if I did, I think I’d go with JP3’s.
https://jp3motorsports.com/products/...l-filter-mount
At $130 it doesn’t sound bad to me , and I’ve bought other things from them and been very happy with the quality. And for your car I’d stay with an OEM filter.

 

Nice to see JP3 made a relocation kit. I hadn't seen that before. I think if I were to relocate I would just install an -AN anyway since they are serviceable.

 

Doing the fuel filter is much easier with the right tools. Be sure you have hose pliars to pull and push on the hoses, as well as long sets of pliers in various configurations (45 degree, 90, straight).
I found that relocation wasn't totally necessary when I had the right combination of pliers.
Good luck!

 

My general maintenance recommendations:

- Oil change every 3 months/3000 miles.
- Diff and trans fluid every 30,000 miles.
- PS fluid every 30,000 miles - suck out what you can from the reservoir and fill back up
- Brake fluid flush once a year
- Coolant change once a year
- Spark plugs every 10-15,000 miles depending on how modified the car is.
- Plug wires every 30,000 miles
- Belts 30,000 miles
- Tires change if they are more than 6 years old, check the date code on the tire, EVEN IF THERE IS TREAD LEFT.
- Fuel filter every 30,000 miles
- new battery every 4 years

My guide on replacing the fuel filter in 20 minutes - https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...change-905141/

Get a little notebook and write down when and what mileage you do service. It's VERY easy to forget what has been done and when.

Few other notes -

- Evans Coolant is good stuff, but you CANNOT mix it with any water. So if you're on a long trip (say, to DGRR!) and a hose fails - if you don't have any Evans on hand you're in tough luck. I've always run Prestone green antifreeze mixed 50/50 with distilled water and changed once a year. Zero coolant issues, zero overheating issues.
- I like Valvoline VR-1 20w50 for oil. VR-1 has a good zinc content, helps all the bearings. Just discovered that Wal-Mart actually has the gallon jugs for $26 so there ya go.
- I don't premix. IMHO it's a waste of time and money. I've yet to see an engine that failed prematurely because they didn't premix. My RX-8 went 135,000 miles on the original engine with no premix. Keep the OMP, keep it working, you'll be just fine.
- If the car looks to have original coolant hoses, get all new hoses. The Mazda OEM hoses are fantastic but they re-formulated them at some point - the original 1993 hoses aren't as great. Ray Crowe can hook you up with a full set for not much money. Zero reason to use aftermarket hoses, a good new set of hoses will easily go 100,000 miles BUT the original hoses will not last as long.

Dale