I purchased a 1993 rx7, the owner had it in storage for last 4 years. What things need to be done. I changed oil and filter 10w40. The owners manual says use 10w30. I'm taking it for radiator flush in a minute what else shoul di have changed?

 

4 years....definitely time for new gas and fuel filter. Also check all your tranny and differential fluids. Check inside all intake piping to make sure no spiders, birds, rats or whatever have decided to make a home and are pretty clean. Good luck!

 

SO have them change gas and fuel filter. Should i have them change tranny fluid and diff also?

 

It wouldn't hert... Redline seems to be one of the best... Probably wanna get some new spark plugs and wires as well.

 

change every fluid, spark plugs, filters, get the old gas out and it won't be a bad idea to clean out the gas tank. Flush the fuel line also and replace the rubber ones (they tend to expand making the inside almost clogged). Like stated above check all intake pipping for crap inside. Look for rust.

 

Check struts for leakage, consider changing out all coolant hoses and check/replace all vac lines. Check water pump. Check engine mounts.

How do I know? I bought one that sat for 5 years.

 

Change belts and brake fluid.

 

many people believe that letting a rotary sit for more than a couple of years = dead engine.

I've never seen proof of it. please report back if get your car to run.

 

I got my fd with 8300 miles on it in march.You should change fuel filter,plugs,wires,all belts ,hoses.Put fuel injector cleaner in.Change to synthetic lube in tranny and rear get a boost guage and downpipe asap. also flush coolant too.

 

Maybe there are reffering to carbon lock? Doesn't seem to common or to hard to fix with a motor in normal conditions.

 

Don't forget to add a full bottle of BG44k or Chevron Techron into the fuel tank after you change the fuel filter. I would also change the oil again after 500 miles.

If you are converned about engine deposits, then auto-rx is a proven product that gently removed engine sludge and engine deposits. www.auto-rx.com This product is not snake oil and many skeptics on www.bobistheoilguy.com forums have tried it and walked away believers in its ability to do what it says it will do....no snake oil here folks. I'm not affiliated with auto-rx but was a skeptic and amazed by my own results.

If you have alternator problems, gently tap the alt with a rubber mallet to unstick the stuck brushes (stuck brush springs).

Closely inspect the tires. If they are dry rotted or flatted out from not being jacked up in storage, REPLACE them.

Odds are that your a/c seals may have dried up and allowed freon to escape. I would definitely run the A/C continuosly to relube the seals and check its operation. If low, top off with appropriate A/C refrigerant and keep eye on level.

When and after replacing break fluid (bleed the brakes at the calipers) keep an eye on the calipers to ensure that they don't leak.

 

Well, the only fluids that I've heard of suffering from sitting are the following:

Coolant (which will even die on store shelves - info. from production engineers here in Edmonton who make it). Ethylene glycol (green stuff) should be changed every two years, used or not! Propylene glycol every 5 years (usually yellow).

Engine oil - due to contaminents created in combustion and held in the oil system - so running or not change every year at least.

Gasoline - will react with metal and "degrade". One year "shelf life" is usually assumed.

Brake fluid - it absorbs water from the air (and from rain) and the water gets distributed throughout the system - settling and concentrating at the calipers. This "enhances" corrosion and lowers the boiling point. Should be changed every two to three years, running or not. Much more often if racing.

I don't think the trans. and diff. oil suffers from sitting - though it should be changed every 30,000 mi or 5 years - more often in "high stress" environments, such as an RX-7 or a heavy truck.

I see the power steering fluid not mentioned. We seem to forget it a lot! Inexpensive to replace but it gets ignored. I would replace it every 5 years.

Cooling system hoses should be replaced every 5 years used or not. Ditto for belts.

Don't forget to lube the hood and hatch latches, and all door hinges including hood and hatch. Another item many ignore.

Probably a good idea to do wheel bearing grease, so you know when it was last done! If they (bearings) go, you need to buy a new hub!

Sigh, better get out to the garage - I've got some fluids to change!

 

Some sludge came out of engine when I drained the oil. I put in new oil and filter. oil pressure fluctuate from 30-60psi at 3000rpm. And between 5-30psi at idle, gets realy low sometimes and i can hear scraping sound coming from engine when its low. So i change oil and filter again. Still low oil pressure at times. I also flushed coolant and changed trans oil and diff oil and got spark plugs. I will do fuel filter next. Isn't there posed to be a fan to cool engine? my 87 na had a big fan, I don't see any fan on this fd. It does run good, took it to reno yesterday 220mi drive.

 

The problem is that people fire them up and then haul *** down the street. You BETTER give the car another break-in period just like it was a new engine, or you will probably be getting a new engine.

 

Very well said...this is always a big problem, let the engine loosen up for a while

 

The oil pressure sender often craps out (gives erratic/low readings) and needs to be cleaned (the input oil orifice) or replaced. That doesn't explain the scraping noise, though...

 

The fans are located on the radiator, which lays diagonally and close to the front bumper. Look down behind the intercooler and you should see it.

I would prioritize the items Beale mentioned (a good list) as such:
1) fuel, fuel filter. This car needs clean fuel, and although the filter location sucks, it's vital.

2) another oil change and filter after a few hundred miles - drain it while hot - it may help clean gunk out.

3) Coolant hoses and coolant. The coolant hoses aren't a pleasant job, and the most important ones (the turbo coolant hoses) are most apt to be ignored. Change them all now - Ray at Malloy Mazda stocks the whole set for a good price. 888-533-3400.

4) Change coolant (obviously when changing the hoses). Flush IMO isn't needed if you're doing it yourself (just do it twice in a month), but if a shop is doing it the flush might make sense.

5) Change belts. Change air filter if needed.

6) Tranny and diff oil is a good idea. I used Neo 75w90 HD, which is good synthetic but not insultingly expensive.

7) Take off the plastic covers on the inside of the door handles, unbolt the door handle panel so you can access the lock mechanism, and lube that whole assy with lithium spray grease. They tend to dry out, build friction, and break under the excessive loads.

8) Bleed brakes.

9) Install some reliability mods:
a) replace stock Air Separation Tank
b) replace stock downpipe, remove and inspect main cat. converter
c) install boost gauge, water temp gauge is a good idea also
d) replace stock radiator with all-aluminum model (Fluidyne, Koyo, etc)
e) rats nest solenoids and hoses - hoses sometimes pop loose - I suggest waiting until the boost gauge shows abnormal behavior before cracking into this.

Did you have a compression test done on the engine? One risk of long-term non-usage is that the apex seal springs relax and the seals don't hold tightly to the housing. If this hasn't been checked, now's the time.

 

I had mine on a boat for 3 months from Japan to Italy. I blew the engine well beyond repair just 3 days later. Take every precaution to ensure it is ready before running it hard.

 

What are signs of a blown engine? And is it safe to redline an fd? I used to drive my 87 na at redline all the time with no problems.

 

BTW, regarding my list, #3 and higher should be done 'soon' but not needed before driving it.

Yes, you can redline an FD. Just be sure the engine is warmed up and it's running well, just keep pouring in the highest octane you can buy (91 in cali, 93 or 94 elsewhere).

Dave

 

I'd pull the engine out completely. Sell the parts. Buy an Ls1 and T56. Install that and haul ***. You shouldn't have any problems after working out the bugs.

HAHA just had to mess with you guys.

Patrick

 

Gee, signs of a blown engine:
1. Loss of power
2. Total change in exhaust pitch (very very very obvious change)
3. 0-0-0 compression
4. Hearing the repair guy say "Nothing is usable, both rotors, both housings, ecentric shaft are shot,... what kind of boost were you running???