efranklin

First thread:

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/cause-my-problems-751100/

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So I charged it for almost 30 minutes started it, let it warm up for 10 minutes drove 10 feet down the road and it died going over a speed bump. I just had the alt replaced a year ago, which Is why I didn't originally think that was the problem.
Anywho heres the video let me know what you guys think:

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/C...lem_159272.htm

My gf is pissed my car never works


* sorry the vid is so long didn't feel like editing it.. the stall out is at the end of the video.

JHew84

iTrader: (9)

After it dies it won't start back up again? couldn't tell if you were trying to start it at the end or just jiggling your keys around... if you can get it started again without having to charge the battery it's not the alternator.

If your battery is on it's way out it that can drag down an alternator something fierce (overworking it to keep a charge on the battery), in which case you will have premature alternator failure. If you replace the alternator without replacing the battery it's only a matter of time before the new alt. gets worn down as well.

But that doesn't seem like your problem, seems like something else is causing it... I didn't read through your other thread, but I'd recomend making this post IN that thread for a more comprehensive answer from the people that may have already been helping you...

efranklin

The car would not start again after it died.

Rotor4play

Just curious do you typically keep the fuel tank that low. If you don't drive the car that often it would be better to keep the tank full. When low like that condensation tends to build more readily and could cause the stalling issue. when the car dies and you start turning the key it sounds more like the starter isn't getting any power. I'm guessing you've gone through your connections and verified they are in fact good solid connections. Get a volt meter and find out what your charging system is doing. THESE KINDS OF PROBLEMS USUALLY TURN OUT TO BE A BaD CABLE OR CONNECTION

bryant

ignition switch or maybe be bad ground.
also make sure the ground is good at the ecu.

Smitter

to check the alternator try disconecting the battery ground while the car is running, if the car dies the alternator is pooched. if the car stays running the alternator is good.

polito Racing

iTrader: (1)

I'm thinking your alternator belt may be bad or a little loose. I say that because I noticed the volts start dropping as the car warm up and as the rpms go higher. belt could be spinning and causing the alternator not to charge properly. the car wont start because the battery was drained because of the alternator not operating properly.

bryant

does everything cut off like all the lights?
cant tell when it cuts off if the lights stay on on the dash.

oh ya girlfriends tend to not understand you have a very picky car.
and temperamental.

existanzrx7

iTrader: (8)

+1

Or take both the battery and alt to you local Auto Zone, Napa or Carquest so they can check them for you.

efranklin

Pulled the alt took it to AAP and it had a short. Picking up a new one tomorrow, pray for me that the bad alt was the problem

MyRedFD

iTrader: (1)

Hope that's the only problem, and it probably is but you never know sometimes. Cars in general are just that way.

FD3S2005

iTrader: (11)

i dont understand how do you read thos boost gauges? i mean i have one but since i got it tuned for 13 psi i never really thought about it..

efranklin

huh?

Rx7_Nut13B

iTrader: (1)

Did the Alt, Blow the main Fues? Think it is 90A or 100A, the on that is bolted in

goingtopless19

How do I get my car to idle that low because mine idles at like 1000, 1500, and when I drive and just put the car in neutral to slow down it stays at like 1800?

aaron1017

Its a 120A fuse.

Eric is replacing the alt today.

1QWIK7

iTrader: (33)

You most likely need to adjust the bleed screw just below the throttle plates on the TB.

And your sig is HUGE. Please resize it.