Installing HO Alt in S4 Vert (Fitzall 220)
09-26-15, 06:53 PM
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Installing HO Alt in S4 Vert (Fitzall 220)
Doesn't look like there are any write ups or install threads for this, and upon comparing the 2 I am not willing to attempt to install this thing and lose $350 because I'm inept.
Bought the Fitzall 220 Alt from PowerBastards, just got it in the mail. Will post pictures later tonight if this gets any attention, but maybe someone has done it before and would like to share any hiccups they encountered.
As far as I can tell the stock FC alt just has its plug in the back that wouldn't go direct into the Fitzall unit's female connection. However, the Fitzall is self-exciting (internally regulated?) so I am unsure if it needs the plug from the stock alt, and confused as to what the connection on the Fitzall is for. Of the 2 alternators I've replaced in the past, one was internally regulated and required no extra connection beyond the power, and the other a straight replacement with the OEM regulator.
Possibly a dumb question but I searched here and elsewhere and have yet to find a solid answer.
Bought the Fitzall 220 Alt from PowerBastards, just got it in the mail. Will post pictures later tonight if this gets any attention, but maybe someone has done it before and would like to share any hiccups they encountered.
As far as I can tell the stock FC alt just has its plug in the back that wouldn't go direct into the Fitzall unit's female connection. However, the Fitzall is self-exciting (internally regulated?) so I am unsure if it needs the plug from the stock alt, and confused as to what the connection on the Fitzall is for. Of the 2 alternators I've replaced in the past, one was internally regulated and required no extra connection beyond the power, and the other a straight replacement with the OEM regulator.
Possibly a dumb question but I searched here and elsewhere and have yet to find a solid answer.
09-27-15, 07:19 AM
#3
funny, they don't even know the crank pulley size but they list amps by engine speed... but then again i don't believe in "high output" alternators anyways, i have ALWAYS run into problems with them. i mean whatcha gonna do with 220amps anyways? weld on your car while driving? bigger is not always better.
as jack said, you'd have to rely on them for schematics. it looks like a generic modified AC Delco unit but there are many variations of those as well.
as jack said, you'd have to rely on them for schematics. it looks like a generic modified AC Delco unit but there are many variations of those as well.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 09-27-15 at 07:22 AM.
09-27-15, 09:49 AM
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I don't see any schematics on the site for hookup. Without that you'll have to contact them for info. Why wouldn't they just include a simple diagram?!
If it's standard Delco alternator then the diagram should be easy to find...Assuming they didn't change any connections.
While I have not had any experience with aftermarket high output alternators, I have had plenty of people tell me of their poor experiences. Now one must take into account that the unit could be poorly wired, however most of the stories have been similar. Very short lifespan. Almost no charging at idle. No excitation until revved to 3000 RPM (which in many piston cars might not happen on the way to work...after a few days of that the battery is dead).
In fact if you grab the Powermaster catalog and look at all their higher output alternators (150A and above) there are about a zillion warnings on how they should be treated and expected to perform.
Any rewond alternator is going to be similar. Really one can't cheat physics.
To make more current in an alternator, one has to increase the amount of material in the stater and windings. Or spin it faster.
If it's standard Delco alternator then the diagram should be easy to find...Assuming they didn't change any connections.
While I have not had any experience with aftermarket high output alternators, I have had plenty of people tell me of their poor experiences. Now one must take into account that the unit could be poorly wired, however most of the stories have been similar. Very short lifespan. Almost no charging at idle. No excitation until revved to 3000 RPM (which in many piston cars might not happen on the way to work...after a few days of that the battery is dead).
In fact if you grab the Powermaster catalog and look at all their higher output alternators (150A and above) there are about a zillion warnings on how they should be treated and expected to perform.
Any rewond alternator is going to be similar. Really one can't cheat physics.
To make more current in an alternator, one has to increase the amount of material in the stater and windings. Or spin it faster.
09-28-15, 12:29 AM
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I had been talking to a fellow who does car audio as a hobby (he's an EE and we'd been talking about wattage/resistances and proper ways to set up aftermarket speakers) and what I understood from the conversation was that HO alts are essentially OEM alts rewound for higher output, and this particular model was the most reviewed and seemed like a good option.
Since they say "at idle" is 110 I figured that would be more than enough assuming I add more, as I have 2 doors 2 dash and a sub with a 1200 amp. He crunched the numbers when I mentioned my audio would occasionally cut out and said
"70Amps - 40Amps (vehicle draw) = 30Amps x 13.8volts = 414watts of available draw
Yikes. No wonder your audio was cutting out. The amp was literally starved for power; you were probably running it on the battery half of the time."
Then after further discussion and research from both of us he said
"As to the Alternator; I believe the brand they carry is Mechman; which is a top brand for Alternators; none of that cheap re-wound crap from eBay, liable to fail in 6 months.
Money well spent. 170 is plenty; but if the difference in price isn't too great; you may want to drop a bit of extra cash and go for something heftier (who knows, maybe you'll want to run a power inverter at some point)
It never hurts to have more generating capacity; up to you."
I'm sure it seems silly to have a 220 amp alt in such a small car but at least I know there's slim chance of me using it all and it'll probably be easier to sell something more powerful if I ever decide to in the future.
I couldn't find a mechman alt that was listed as being compatible with the FC and I can't find it now but I had read somewhere that the fitzall would do just fine given the multiple mounting points. I didn't even think about the wiring at the time and yeah, neither the site nor the packaging contains any info about installing it, I assume they assume customers would already know or have it professionally installed. Luckily I bought from them specifically because their terms directly say it is returnable within 30 days, but I'd rather not have to pay for shipping and their insane 20% restocking fee.
Another concern I have outside of the wiring which I think will be easy once I ask them is the stock FC alternators have 2 holes for the mounting bolt to the water pump while this one has 1. But the pulleys match up, the alts are about the same size and I think it will fit just fine. Just worried about the wiring.
Since they say "at idle" is 110 I figured that would be more than enough assuming I add more, as I have 2 doors 2 dash and a sub with a 1200 amp. He crunched the numbers when I mentioned my audio would occasionally cut out and said
"70Amps - 40Amps (vehicle draw) = 30Amps x 13.8volts = 414watts of available draw
Yikes. No wonder your audio was cutting out. The amp was literally starved for power; you were probably running it on the battery half of the time."
Then after further discussion and research from both of us he said
"As to the Alternator; I believe the brand they carry is Mechman; which is a top brand for Alternators; none of that cheap re-wound crap from eBay, liable to fail in 6 months.
Money well spent. 170 is plenty; but if the difference in price isn't too great; you may want to drop a bit of extra cash and go for something heftier (who knows, maybe you'll want to run a power inverter at some point)
It never hurts to have more generating capacity; up to you."
I'm sure it seems silly to have a 220 amp alt in such a small car but at least I know there's slim chance of me using it all and it'll probably be easier to sell something more powerful if I ever decide to in the future.
I couldn't find a mechman alt that was listed as being compatible with the FC and I can't find it now but I had read somewhere that the fitzall would do just fine given the multiple mounting points. I didn't even think about the wiring at the time and yeah, neither the site nor the packaging contains any info about installing it, I assume they assume customers would already know or have it professionally installed. Luckily I bought from them specifically because their terms directly say it is returnable within 30 days, but I'd rather not have to pay for shipping and their insane 20% restocking fee.
Another concern I have outside of the wiring which I think will be easy once I ask them is the stock FC alternators have 2 holes for the mounting bolt to the water pump while this one has 1. But the pulleys match up, the alts are about the same size and I think it will fit just fine. Just worried about the wiring.
09-28-15, 12:39 AM
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If I'm better off returning it and getting a taurus alt I might as well, still saves me money after the restocking fee. Still looking for the model number of the taurus one. Definitely should have waited on this but it was driving me crazy so I just ordered it as soon as I was remotely sure.
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10-04-15, 12:16 AM
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So it doesn't matter what model it is? Just anything from that generation of Taurus and all you have to do is swap the pulley, seems like, as long as I find one with the same mount setup
10-04-15, 12:00 PM
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