RX-7 Drive Belts (V Belt / Serpentine Belt / Fan Belt) FAQ
#1
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RX-7 Drive Belts (V Belt / Serpentine Belt / Fan Belt) FAQ
The intent of this thread is to make a definitive FAQ for the FD drive belts (or fan/serpentine/V belts). Interestingly, the microfiche lists each item as a V Belt
Earlier today I had an issue getting the proper fan belts for my FD at the local auto parts store. The part numbers listed in their system didn’t match the actual items. So I had to call around to other part stores and [hopefully] found the needed parts. I pick them up tomorrow. The part numbers below apply to a stock configured FD engine. I verified these part numbers against the parts microfiche from each model year. There were no difference between any sub-models such as Base, Touring, R1, or R2.
Furthermore, I spoke with Ray Crowe and he can no longer get belts from Mazda. They have been discontinued and must be locally sourced (auto parts stores).
Since there are other aftermarket options available with under drive pulleys, billet aluminum pulleys, different idler pulleys, etc… then please list the drive belts that work for that specific application. I ask that we avoid duplicate posts when listing these variations.
One final lesson about V Belt part numbers: the number before the “PK” indicates the number of ribs and the numbers after the “PK” indicates the belt length in millimeters. For example, a 5PK-1355 belt has 5 ribs and is 1,355mm long (if measured from end to end). A 6PK-xxxx would have 6 ribs.
1993-1995 OEM Specification:
Alternator-Water Pump-Air Pump-Drive Pulley (MT): 5PK-1355
Alternator-Water Pump-Air Pump-Drive Pulley (AT): 5PK-1310
Power Steering-Air Con-Idler & Drive Pulley (with A/C): 6PK-1045
Power Steering-Idler & Drive Pulley (P/S only): 6PK-920
OEM Microfiche Part Reference
Cheers,
George
Earlier today I had an issue getting the proper fan belts for my FD at the local auto parts store. The part numbers listed in their system didn’t match the actual items. So I had to call around to other part stores and [hopefully] found the needed parts. I pick them up tomorrow. The part numbers below apply to a stock configured FD engine. I verified these part numbers against the parts microfiche from each model year. There were no difference between any sub-models such as Base, Touring, R1, or R2.
Furthermore, I spoke with Ray Crowe and he can no longer get belts from Mazda. They have been discontinued and must be locally sourced (auto parts stores).
Since there are other aftermarket options available with under drive pulleys, billet aluminum pulleys, different idler pulleys, etc… then please list the drive belts that work for that specific application. I ask that we avoid duplicate posts when listing these variations.
One final lesson about V Belt part numbers: the number before the “PK” indicates the number of ribs and the numbers after the “PK” indicates the belt length in millimeters. For example, a 5PK-1355 belt has 5 ribs and is 1,355mm long (if measured from end to end). A 6PK-xxxx would have 6 ribs.
1993-1995 OEM Specification:
Alternator-Water Pump-Air Pump-Drive Pulley (MT): 5PK-1355
Alternator-Water Pump-Air Pump-Drive Pulley (AT): 5PK-1310
Power Steering-Air Con-Idler & Drive Pulley (with A/C): 6PK-1045
Power Steering-Idler & Drive Pulley (P/S only): 6PK-920
OEM Microfiche Part Reference
Cheers,
George
Last edited by Gen2n3; 04-02-18 at 09:42 PM. Reason: Added Belt Pic from Microfiche
#2
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Thanks for that!
Getting belts for an FD can be WAY trickier than you would think. If you have aftermarket pullies, idler pulley, under drive pullies, etc. it gets crazy real fast.
I recommend hanging on to an old set of belts and also making note of their sizes. The parts store almost NEVER has the right size in their computer for whatever reason.
Get a good quality belt, it makes a BIG difference. I go with Dayco or Bando if possible.
Dale
Getting belts for an FD can be WAY trickier than you would think. If you have aftermarket pullies, idler pulley, under drive pullies, etc. it gets crazy real fast.
I recommend hanging on to an old set of belts and also making note of their sizes. The parts store almost NEVER has the right size in their computer for whatever reason.
Get a good quality belt, it makes a BIG difference. I go with Dayco or Bando if possible.
Dale
#3
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Dale,
Agreed. This is the reason for this thread - to document a reference point.
To update everyone, I did find the exact replacement belts at Bap Geon. The belts were made by Bando. The other chain stores did not list the belt sizes above in their computers at all. I also went to Dayco's website to look at their specs. And their size charts had discrepancies similar to the auto parts stores!
Cheers,
George
Agreed. This is the reason for this thread - to document a reference point.
To update everyone, I did find the exact replacement belts at Bap Geon. The belts were made by Bando. The other chain stores did not list the belt sizes above in their computers at all. I also went to Dayco's website to look at their specs. And their size charts had discrepancies similar to the auto parts stores!
Cheers,
George
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Gen2n3 (04-03-18)
#5
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
I was going to mention that. Banzai has good Bando belts as well.
Dale
Dale
#7
Retired First Sergeant
iTrader: (18)
We did this exercise many years ago for modified configurations FD3s Poly-V Belts
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era1oner (11-16-18)
#9
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
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Mike,
Are you asking a question or making a statement? Are you using the smog pump or was it deleted? I am unfamiliar with the Full Function Idler Pulley. Are you using the stock idler pulley for the A/C & P/S?
Based upon your belt configuration, you have:
1. Banzai FD Aluminum Pulley Kit
---Underdrive Eccentric
---Alt (Stock Diameter)
---W/P
---P/S
2. Full Function Idler Pulley (assume for smog pump removal)
3. Belt size: 5PK-990
Maybe a 970mm (5PK-970) belt would allow more room for adjustments?
Cheers,
George
Are you asking a question or making a statement? Are you using the smog pump or was it deleted? I am unfamiliar with the Full Function Idler Pulley. Are you using the stock idler pulley for the A/C & P/S?
Based upon your belt configuration, you have:
1. Banzai FD Aluminum Pulley Kit
---Underdrive Eccentric
---Alt (Stock Diameter)
---W/P
---P/S
2. Full Function Idler Pulley (assume for smog pump removal)
3. Belt size: 5PK-990
Maybe a 970mm (5PK-970) belt would allow more room for adjustments?
Cheers,
George
#10
Full Member
iTrader: (5)
It was a statement. No air pump thats why the FFE idler pulley. Banzai pulley kit is underdrive main, stock size alt, water pump, power steering. I did also use the Pettit racing alum. idle pulley on the 6 rib belt. That one was pretty easy to figure using the Banzai web site.
Last edited by Mike93r1; 04-10-18 at 08:10 PM. Reason: Add to post
#11
Full Member
So i recently ordered an IR alternator, i have been told to not go with underdrive. But that is almost every kit on the market. I wanted to go with a banzai kit, but was going off of advice not to use a underdrive kit. My setup would be EWP, with a/c and p/s. Anybody have any advice on this. Im not sure if i misunderstood, maybe they meant dont use underdrive alt pulley. But with an underdrive eccentric, it has that effect on all the accessories.
#15
Full Member
ahh I see. That makes more sense. So the word is that unorthodox racing will be putting a kit out with stock diameter eccentric by early next year. I’ll be emailing them to try and confirm.
#17
43 yrs of driving My 7's
iTrader: (1)
Anything with a non-removable bearing set cannot to powder coated due to the oven temps of 500 degrees for most powder coating. It will cook the grease in the bearings and they will fail quickly. The main pulley, alternator pulley, and water pump cover are OK for powder coating.
Mike
Mike
#18
Full Member
Anything with a non-removable bearing set cannot to powder coated due to the oven temps of 500 degrees for most powder coating. It will cook the grease in the bearings and they will fail quickly. The main pulley, alternator pulley, and water pump cover are OK for powder coating.
Mike
Mike
ill be coating eccentric, tensioner pulley for the accessory belts (have to see if I can source new bearing), I’m gonna buy a billet PS pulley and coat it, then a/c gonna blast and see if I can disassemble. Not sure yet.
I will be running ewp so no need for wp pulley.
#20
Full Member
Can anyone else offer input on this?
I'm looking to use the Pineapple racing air pump removal (which adds an idler/tensioner) with ONLY an underdriven alternator.
Can someone tell me the proper length for this? Thanks!!
(Someone should make a quick app/program for this!)
I'm looking to use the Pineapple racing air pump removal (which adds an idler/tensioner) with ONLY an underdriven alternator.
Can someone tell me the proper length for this? Thanks!!
(Someone should make a quick app/program for this!)
#21
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Bit of a side note, instead of creating a new thread, I figured I'd go with this. So I took the part number off this thread for the Alt/WP/AP belt and cross referenced it at Autozone, and came up with part number 4050515 for the Continental brand. Now, based on my research, Gatorback was always a great belt, due to corporate buyouts, it was rebranded Continental Elite. However, I couldn't find an Elite version in stock in any parts databases at the chain stores. I found out by looking on Continentals website, they changed all of their belts to "OE Technology Series." There was even an explanation in the documents listing the differences, one of the differences for the "new" OE Technology Series was the "ribbed pattern familiar to most technicians."
...now, I have zero technical data to go on, so call me crazy here, but to me the way the document was worded was essentially they are ditching the Gatorback/elite series because of cost and just combining everything into one style normal serpentine belt. The whole point of the Gatorback/elite series being superior to the regular belts was the fact that its pattern was distinct, correct? I can still find an actual Gatorback/elite series, so I'm wondering if I should return this continental OE Technology Series and get the Gatorback/Elite, unless they truly are just as good, despite the OE Tech series looking just like every other belt out there.
...now, I have zero technical data to go on, so call me crazy here, but to me the way the document was worded was essentially they are ditching the Gatorback/elite series because of cost and just combining everything into one style normal serpentine belt. The whole point of the Gatorback/elite series being superior to the regular belts was the fact that its pattern was distinct, correct? I can still find an actual Gatorback/elite series, so I'm wondering if I should return this continental OE Technology Series and get the Gatorback/Elite, unless they truly are just as good, despite the OE Tech series looking just like every other belt out there.
Last edited by SwappedNA; 09-13-19 at 07:22 PM. Reason: Added information.
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