quarnstrom

on a 1993 3rd. gen automatic what is needed to raise the 7,000 rpm limiter, say up to the manual's 8,000

theorie

iTrader: (31)

Do you have the stock ECU? If you have an aftermarket ECU (e.g. Power FC) you should be able to change it. Refer to your ECU's product manual (or search).

Did you try searching? I did a quick search and I see lots of threads about the rev/rpm limiter. Please don't start new threads unless you search first. This forum has been online for a long time, and nearly any question you could ask is probably already answered - you just need to search for that answer.

Rev-limiter...can it be removed?
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/rev-limiter-can-removed-117766/

rev limiter question
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/rev-limiter-question-93597/

Please search before starting new threads.

quarnstrom

Thank you for your answer. Yes, my ECU is stock. I looked at several pages before I started the thread, but I saw nothing specific. I suppose my search phrase was not on point. But, I did see a lot of chippy replies to many different questions.

seandizzie

iTrader: (1)

Why do you want to raise the redline??? Stock porting doesn't need 8,000 plus rpm to make power.

I would think you would need to re program the transmission shift points to take advantage of a higher redline. I don't know anything about the fd's auto tranny and how it is controled but I worked for http://www.suncoastconverters.com/ and to change the shift points on the big diesel trucks takes valve body and tcm(transmissioncontrolmoduel) adjustment.

quarnstrom

The motor is red-lined at 8,000rpm in the manual transmission version and 7,000 in the automatic. Same motor. I have a 4.77 ratio axle ratio and a very beefed up auto-trans (I've heard the reduced rpm is due to the stock version's weakness). So, it seems to me I'm leaving 1,000 rpm of performance on the table.
Furthermore, since there are no warranty issues, I will worry about whatever weaknesses the are.

He's On Toroids

iTrader: (2)

The motor isn't the reason for the red-line (obv) It is rumored that the Torque Converter or maybe the Pins in the planetary gears are the reason the RPMs were limited. Dependent on what 'beefing up' was done to your transmission, the problem may remain or it may have been taken care of. I'd talk to your transmission builder and ask them if it will be safe to run 8,000 RPM.

Sidenote: IIRC the rev limit of the auto is 7500 RPM if you have the Hold button engaged.

quarnstrom

Thank you for your response. I noted in my post that the engine is not the reason. I did not know that the rpm limiter will go to 7500 when on hold. I will try it tomorrow. But to all the answers I've received the question is NOT why, or why not, I should raise the rpm limit. The question is, CAN I?

quarnstrom

Excuse me. My post should have said "CAN I....and, if so, HOW"?

twinsinside

iTrader: (34)

Not trying to be a smartass but why not just put a manual transmission in if performance is your objective?

Obviously its a lot of work but auto trannys....meh. I get irritated driving my wife's auto CRV, can't imagine how much it would bug me in my FD.

He's On Toroids

iTrader: (2)

Theorie gave you your answer but I will post it again. Buy a PFC or other standalone and change the rev limit with their programing. (Just make sure you get a Banzai Harness to use the original transmission computer as intended). If you are interested in more transmission adjustment you can get a PCS transmission controller: http://www.powertraincontrolsolution...anscontrol.php You can read the page to learn all of the functions you will be able to control with this. If you scroll you can see that they support the Mazda R4A-EL transmission and also have the harness available so you don't even need to do any wiring. If you desire, you can even use this module to put paddle/button shifters on the steering wheel.


There are various reasons people keep the auto, disabilities, traffic, money, resale value, etc. For me, it is because it is largely unexplored and I like learning new things (also, it annoys the crap out of a lot of 5-speed drivers). Everyone has their own reason. Please don't harass them because of it.

twinsinside

iTrader: (34)

I'm not harrassing anyone, I asked a question and followed up with a personal opinion based on the OP's statment of "leaving 1000 rpm of performance on the table".

It's his car, I wouldn't care if he cut a hole in the floor and called it the Flintsones Mod.

I agree with the first of your four reasons to keep an auto tranny, but I wouldn't call an auto tranny a new experience.

Best of luck to you OP I'm sure you'll get your answers here to anything you want to do Enjoy

He's On Toroids

iTrader: (2)

Sorry, I re-read what I wrote and it did come off a bit harsh. Chalk that up to being a bit oversensitive to everyone telling us to 'just swap it.' It i hard to tell people's tone when typing

I agree resale value is improved when looking at M/T vs. A/T. But a swapped M/T will not pull as much money due to concerns about the quality of the swap. It is true that you can probably do a swap for $1K or less if you find someone to buy off your old parts and you do it yourself. But, to do a full swap (engine harness, dash, dash harness, diff, Rear Iron, and pay a reputable shop to do it) you will spend more money then the difference between buying an auto and a manual. Therefore, keeping it auto will net you more money in the end.

twinsinside

iTrader: (34)

Hey no worries, I realize its a sensitive topic so I tried to lead with a disclaimer in the opening sentence I guess I was just trying to say that if high rpm hard running performance was the objective, a manual conversion would be the best solution.

By the way, the rear auto iron doesn't need to be replaced from what I understand. I've heard they can be used with manual trannys.

He's On Toroids

iTrader: (2)

True, rear Iron differs only in mounting features which everyone I've heard says does not really affect functionality/durability. But, it would still need to be swapped if someone was trying to 'fully' recreate a manual setup to the point that the only way to be able to tell is to send the VIN into MAZDA to get the build history. Even without the rear iron, the build cost is over 2K parts alone. Which is more then the difference between a Auto and Manual purchase price.

quarnstrom

Well, I got my definitive answer from Apex Power FC. For 1,000 bucks; e.g. fuggedaboutit!!

He's On Toroids

iTrader: (2)

arghx

iTrader: (3)

You can get a used one. They go on sale all the time.