Ok i said the car runs fine, that would mean the map sensor works fine too ...

everything else works except the Tach, Speedo, Oil, and Temp...

It HAS to be a grounding issue, i just need to figure out what ground it is...

The cluster is fine, it has to do with the x-14 or x-5 connector....

 

lmao... **** this board!

 

ever get the cluster working?

I must have missed the QD connector discussion when I first read this thread...opps

 

I ran into the same problem and had to ground the p/s wire to the chassis and teh cluster worked great.

 

p/s wire?

 

Engine bay pictures?

 

power steering has one wire....that increases the revs when the steering wheel goes to extremes one way or theother. I had this problem and the guages worked when I bottomed out the steering....removed the wire from the power steering pump and grounded it and the guages have worked ever since.

 

What you would need would be a 555 to generate pulses, a TTL counter, a couple of NAND gates, and some other stuff. This could keep an output high for some period of time after clearing it with the ignition 12V wire going from high to low. There'd also have to be an op-amp isolator and a few other components, but, um you could pretty easily build something like this. I'll design it for you for a small fee

 

power steering hmmm, no more power steering on my car

and here is a pic of the engine bay... i need to pull the motor and sand and repaint the engine bay... that damn turbo is getting coated next

 

Broken93, you could forego the digital logic stuff and make a pretty simple temperature controlled circuit, by rigging up a crude 2- or 4-bit flash a/d converter to control the output of your op-amp based on the resistance of a thermistor. I'll try to design something like that this week or next, depending on how much free time I have. We're going over stuff like that in my analog class right now.

EJMack, that's a pretty spartan engine bay you've got there, it's looking pretty good. Have you driven it without power steering yet? I'm considering removing mine, if I can figure out a way to keep my car cool enough without A/C.

-s-

 

Certainly, but the proposed requirement was to run the fans for a period of time, not a period of time corresponding to temperature

The easiest thing I can think to do, going that route, would be to make the thermistor part of an Op-amp's feedback and give the op-amp a constant voltage input (i.e. +12V), so that when the thermistor reached the proper shutdown temp, the op-amp output went over the threshold voltage of a flip-flop, and triggered a shutdown of the fans.

You would still want to run that type of circuit with a timer as well in case the thermistor failed - you don't want to run your fans forever and kill the battery.

 

Yeah I have driven it without power steeriing and don't notice a difference, but im also a big guy

 

Please help.. I am in the middle of sequential vacuum simplification and while im at it im gonna re-wrap my harness.. but one of my buddies was taking my uim off and forgot which of the two black plugs went where and where the white plug goes.. i am installing the block-off plate kit and i want to loose everything except the Idle Sensor Control from what i have been reading.. So i guess im asking which plug is that.

 

This seems to be the place to ask about harness stuff, Im wireing up a haltech, how do i get the tacho, back up light, and gauges to work?

 

Try the Haltech section!

 

yeyup

this is an anti Haltech discussion

 

I don't have a haltech question guys :p

 

im kinda begging, next i will be desperate ^Bump^

 

You want to know which one is the idle sensor control? Hmm, don't remember off the top of my head. See if I can look it up for you.

 

Thanks because there are two black plugs and a white plug.. im eliminating the aws so i need the isc and the iat but dunno which plugs they are :/ this is why i like to disassemble things myself.

 

I love this thread.

I swear that someone has hacked into my harness at one point. If this is how the grounds are originally, this has got to be another what was Mazda thinking.


You mentioned what you kept, but what about the knock sensor? Did you keep that as well? Also, I'm at a loss about what these are:



Those two pics belong to these two wires. The top wire belongs to the first pic in this group above. Looks like someone extended it themselves.


And if I'm not mistaken, this is the knock sensor...


Nevermind the mess. I was getting nasty blowby out the oil filler neck. The gasket was missing.

Thanks in advance!

 

I'd like to make a suggestion for some of you guys that havent finished this yet. When you get to the end part, instead of wraping in electrical tape then putting wire loom over it, I'd wire loom it then put the electrical tape over the loom.

Or you could heat shrink it but the problem with that is it you even have a elec prob its going to be a bitch cause you cant easily get to the wires.

Stephen

 

good thread... ill have to remember it

 

I did my harness and it is time consuming. I went down to the pick a part and loaded up on all the good connectors from the Mazda's there. I would solder the connections, yes its a pain but wort the time. I steeped up the gage in all cases.

 

i had a friend that did that with his civic and a motor swap. it took him a bit of time but in the end it looked really good!!!