Rewiring ENTIRE Engine Harness
06-01-04, 09:39 AM
#26
Slam Pig
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Originally posted by zyounker
Yeah.. Save time and money.. Get a haltech with a flying lead harness. This will update the connectors to weather pack which are really nice.
Yeah.. Save time and money.. Get a haltech with a flying lead harness. This will update the connectors to weather pack which are really nice.
shhhh..he doesnt want a haltech
06-01-04, 09:40 AM
#27
Lawn Ornament
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Originally posted by zyounker
Yeah.. Save time and money.. Get a haltech with a flying lead harness. This will update the connectors to weather pack which are really nice.
Yeah.. Save time and money.. Get a haltech with a flying lead harness. This will update the connectors to weather pack which are really nice.
I already own the PFC, Datalogit, and Commander, and it will cost maybe 25-30 dollars in supplies....
06-01-04, 09:41 AM
#28
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1 Coolant Temp Sensor Connector /Pins
1 Intake Air Temp Sensor Connector w/Pins
1 MAP Sensor Connector w/Pins
Thats the only thing that wiring pack has that I would need... 70 bucks for 3 of those isn't worth it inmy opinion.....
1 Intake Air Temp Sensor Connector w/Pins
1 MAP Sensor Connector w/Pins
Thats the only thing that wiring pack has that I would need... 70 bucks for 3 of those isn't worth it inmy opinion.....
06-01-04, 09:44 AM
#29
root
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Didn't realize you had the PFC.
but the haltech comes with new connectors.. And they are much nicer then the stock connectors. They are the weatherpack type.
If you are really attached to your PFC i would still think about ordering a flying lead harness and a connector kit.
That will take care of most of your connectors.. then you will need to find the ECU plugs. Your stock ones should be fine as they have always been inside your car away from most of the heat.
the best thing to do would be to find a dealer who sells weatherpack connectors.
but the haltech comes with new connectors.. And they are much nicer then the stock connectors. They are the weatherpack type.
If you are really attached to your PFC i would still think about ordering a flying lead harness and a connector kit.
That will take care of most of your connectors.. then you will need to find the ECU plugs. Your stock ones should be fine as they have always been inside your car away from most of the heat.
the best thing to do would be to find a dealer who sells weatherpack connectors.
Last edited by zyounker; 06-01-04 at 09:47 AM.
06-01-04, 09:48 AM
#31
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Thread Starter
Originally posted by zyounker
Didn't realize you had the PFC.
but the haltech comes with new connectors.. And they are much nicer then the stock connectors. They are the weatherpack type.
If you are really attached to your PFC i would still think about ordering a flying lead harness and a connector kit.
That will take care of most of your connectors.. then you will need to find the ECU plugs. Your stock ones should be fine as they have always been inside your car away from most of the heat.
the best thing to do would be to find a dealer who sells weatherpack connectors.
Didn't realize you had the PFC.
but the haltech comes with new connectors.. And they are much nicer then the stock connectors. They are the weatherpack type.
If you are really attached to your PFC i would still think about ordering a flying lead harness and a connector kit.
That will take care of most of your connectors.. then you will need to find the ECU plugs. Your stock ones should be fine as they have always been inside your car away from most of the heat.
the best thing to do would be to find a dealer who sells weatherpack connectors.
06-01-04, 09:49 AM
#32
root
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I believe we will have some here in a few weeks.. We are doing something very similar to you. But that may take longer then you want.
Friend just picked up and auto RX-7 we are converting over.. Gonna end up doing an entirely new harness.
-Zach
Friend just picked up and auto RX-7 we are converting over.. Gonna end up doing an entirely new harness.
-Zach
06-01-04, 10:02 AM
#33
root
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Actually we are looking at doing a bunch of microtechs lately... I really have no preference between haltech/microtech The PFC is pretty nice if you have a good stock harness..
but with any 10 year old turbo car.. The wiring harnesses are usually **** and mazda charges way too much for connectors. New harness when i checked along time ago was ~900-1500. (in that range)
So yeah.. i am partial to replacing everything.
but with any 10 year old turbo car.. The wiring harnesses are usually **** and mazda charges way too much for connectors. New harness when i checked along time ago was ~900-1500. (in that range)
So yeah.. i am partial to replacing everything.
06-01-04, 10:11 AM
#34
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Originally posted by zyounker
I believe we will have some here in a few weeks.. We are doing something very similar to you. But that may take longer then you want.
Friend just picked up and auto RX-7 we are converting over.. Gonna end up doing an entirely new harness.
-Zach
I believe we will have some here in a few weeks.. We are doing something very similar to you. But that may take longer then you want.
Friend just picked up and auto RX-7 we are converting over.. Gonna end up doing an entirely new harness.
-Zach
06-01-04, 10:19 AM
#35
root
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Yeah i figured we may need to tap into some of your knowledge.. I dont imaging it will be hard though..
The previous owner started the swap.. and it is all jacked up.. We have a open ground and a short also somewhere. I think we are just gonna pull the motor then take a look at what he did. So we can fix it all.
I think with the engine side harness we will just go standalone to replace it. But I am not sure about the other side yet. I believe it has some auto specific crap.
Maybe we could work something out for the stock ECU connectors. Let me talk to my friend and see where he wants to go with it, and when they would be avaliable.
The previous owner started the swap.. and it is all jacked up.. We have a open ground and a short also somewhere. I think we are just gonna pull the motor then take a look at what he did. So we can fix it all.
I think with the engine side harness we will just go standalone to replace it. But I am not sure about the other side yet. I believe it has some auto specific crap.
Maybe we could work something out for the stock ECU connectors. Let me talk to my friend and see where he wants to go with it, and when they would be avaliable.
06-01-04, 10:43 PM
#37
Hi Powr FD's
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Ouch, I cant believe you stripped it down to the individual wires..
I simply cut off the ones I didnt need, sealed off the individual tips and electrical taped it to the rest of the wires so you cant really tell it once came off the harness.
I simply cut off the ones I didnt need, sealed off the individual tips and electrical taped it to the rest of the wires so you cant really tell it once came off the harness.
06-01-04, 11:13 PM
#38
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Originally posted by HeatTreated
Ouch, I cant believe you stripped it down to the individual wires..
I simply cut off the ones I didnt need, sealed off the individual tips and electrical taped it to the rest of the wires so you cant really tell it once came off the harness.
Ouch, I cant believe you stripped it down to the individual wires..
I simply cut off the ones I didnt need, sealed off the individual tips and electrical taped it to the rest of the wires so you cant really tell it once came off the harness.
Im having fun... just printed out labels for the connectors
06-01-04, 11:28 PM
#39
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Hay,
I rewired selected parts, the injector power and ECU inputs with 14 gage wire. I also installed a relay on the power side to run the injectors. I used Cosmo injector connectors which had a larger gage set of wires to start with. I moved my coils and made a longer harness/with a shielded outer. I also doubled the size wire in-between the alternator and the battery. I am using 1 gage battery cables and mounted the battery in the rear. Rewired all the ECU input sensors as well as add 10 gage ground from the battery negative to the ECU and then the engine. Moved my solenoids to the driver front corner of the engine bay and tossed the rats nest piping. Everything is connected and working. The factory harness may be OK but once its moved around it starts to fail. Its a big job but worth doing.
I rewired selected parts, the injector power and ECU inputs with 14 gage wire. I also installed a relay on the power side to run the injectors. I used Cosmo injector connectors which had a larger gage set of wires to start with. I moved my coils and made a longer harness/with a shielded outer. I also doubled the size wire in-between the alternator and the battery. I am using 1 gage battery cables and mounted the battery in the rear. Rewired all the ECU input sensors as well as add 10 gage ground from the battery negative to the ECU and then the engine. Moved my solenoids to the driver front corner of the engine bay and tossed the rats nest piping. Everything is connected and working. The factory harness may be OK but once its moved around it starts to fail. Its a big job but worth doing.
06-02-04, 12:31 AM
#40
ejmack1: For the grounding, it helps a lot if you sand the paint off at the point where the ground wire connects to the chassis using a fine grit sandpaper. Also sand the ring terminals that you'll be using for the grounds, you want fresh metal on both ends.
Did you notice any problems with melted or cracked wires? How are the connectors holding up? I've considered doing this, but I'll probably hold off as long as the car is running fine (knock on wood).
-s-
Did you notice any problems with melted or cracked wires? How are the connectors holding up? I've considered doing this, but I'll probably hold off as long as the car is running fine (knock on wood).
-s-
06-02-04, 12:39 AM
#41
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Originally posted by scotty305
ejmack1: For the grounding, it helps a lot if you sand the paint off at the point where the ground wire connects to the chassis using a fine grit sandpaper. Also sand the ring terminals that you'll be using for the grounds, you want fresh metal on both ends.
Did you notice any problems with melted or cracked wires? How are the connectors holding up? I've considered doing this, but I'll probably hold off as long as the car is running fine (knock on wood).
-s-
ejmack1: For the grounding, it helps a lot if you sand the paint off at the point where the ground wire connects to the chassis using a fine grit sandpaper. Also sand the ring terminals that you'll be using for the grounds, you want fresh metal on both ends.
Did you notice any problems with melted or cracked wires? How are the connectors holding up? I've considered doing this, but I'll probably hold off as long as the car is running fine (knock on wood).
-s-
06-02-04, 12:42 AM
#42
Just ditch as many of the stock connectors as you can. If you've got electrician skills, and tools, I would consider just crimping them together instead of using connectors. Assuming you're not going to be constantly disconnecting & reconnecting most of them, it would be a really good solution.
-s-
-s-
06-02-04, 12:45 AM
#44
Lawn Ornament
Thread Starter
Originally posted by scotty305
Just ditch as many of the stock connectors as you can. If you've got electrician skills, and tools, I would consider just crimping them together instead of using connectors. Assuming you're not going to be constantly disconnecting & reconnecting most of them, it would be a really good solution.
-s-
Just ditch as many of the stock connectors as you can. If you've got electrician skills, and tools, I would consider just crimping them together instead of using connectors. Assuming you're not going to be constantly disconnecting & reconnecting most of them, it would be a really good solution.
-s-
Like the Air Temp, Water Temp, Primaries injectors, etc...
06-02-04, 12:48 AM
#45
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hmmm here is another idea... quick disconnect on the firewall engine bay side so when you are removing the engine you dont have to pull it through the firewall 
06-02-04, 01:33 AM
#46
Rotary Freak
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Originally posted by ejmack1
Can anyone tell me what type of wire i should get? 16 ga?
Can anyone tell me what type of wire i should get? 16 ga?
06-02-04, 09:41 AM
#48
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Originally posted by ejmack1
hmmm here is another idea... quick disconnect on the firewall engine bay side so when you are removing the engine you dont have to pull it through the firewall
hmmm here is another idea... quick disconnect on the firewall engine bay side so when you are removing the engine you dont have to pull it through the firewall
06-02-04, 09:45 AM
#49
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i am really considering doing what you are doing. but i will probably try to find a used harness and work from there. my wires are fine as long as i dont touch them lol
06-02-04, 10:08 AM
#50
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Originally posted by jdhuegel1
Heh... I'm already on that one PUNK! I'll let you know how it goes.. Or doesn't.
Heh... I'm already on that one PUNK! I'll let you know how it goes.. Or doesn't.