Rewiring ENTIRE Engine Harness
Originally posted by apexkw
i am really considering doing what you are doing. but i will probably try to find a used harness and work from there. my wires are fine as long as i dont touch them lol
i am really considering doing what you are doing. but i will probably try to find a used harness and work from there. my wires are fine as long as i dont touch them lol
oh dont get me wrong i am just going to try to find a used harness and then re wire the whole thing with new wires. just this way i dont need to have my car sit around waiting for me to finish
Originally posted by CCarlisi
Or you two trail blazers can ask Pettit how they did it several years ago
Or you two trail blazers can ask Pettit how they did it several years ago
Well it took me a total of 15 minutes last night, 10 minutes the night before to pullthe turbo off....
so basically 30 minutes to get down to the block and get the harness out
lol gotta love these cars
so basically 30 minutes to get down to the block and get the harness out
lol gotta love these cars
Originally posted by jdhuegel1
I looked around and couldn't really find much. It's been done a few times.. Not just by Petit I don't think. Not trying to re-invent the wheel.. Just trying to make changing it easier. As many times as I've taken out the harness I should have done it in the beginning.
I looked around and couldn't really find much. It's been done a few times.. Not just by Petit I don't think. Not trying to re-invent the wheel.. Just trying to make changing it easier. As many times as I've taken out the harness I should have done it in the beginning.
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...92&prmenbr=361
Although i think buying a connector pack they sell with the haltechs would be cheaper. (As it is a bundled deal ~$70)
Although i think buying a connector pack they sell with the haltechs would be cheaper. (As it is a bundled deal ~$70)
Originally posted by zyounker
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...92&prmenbr=361
Although i think buying a connector pack they sell with the haltechs would be cheaper. (As it is a bundled deal ~$70)
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...92&prmenbr=361
Although i think buying a connector pack they sell with the haltechs would be cheaper. (As it is a bundled deal ~$70)
What you are gonna have to do is call them and find a distributor.. I believe jegs is one though.. but i looked and jegs sells the painless brand vs the delphi brand.
Last edited by zyounker; Jun 2, 2004 at 01:52 PM.
Originally posted by zyounker
What you are gonna have to do is call them and find a distributor.. I believe jegs is one though.. but i looked and jegs sells the painless brand vs the delphi brand.
What you are gonna have to do is call them and find a distributor.. I believe jegs is one though.. but i looked and jegs sells the painless brand vs the delphi brand.
K i believe these are the molex connectors, can anyone confirm?
http://www.newproduct.molex.com/data...cehedffgdfmk.0
http://www.newproduct.molex.com/data...cehedffgdfmk.0
Last edited by ejmack1; Jun 2, 2004 at 07:29 PM.
ok I almost got Connector "4" done..... The ones in bold were the ones i kept, I removed the entire Molex Connector for the wires i removed.

4A = Black / White (Ground)
4B = Black / White (Ground)
4C = Black (Ground)
4D = Brown / Black (Ground)
4E = Crank Angle Sensor
4F = Split Air Bypass
4G = Crank Angle Sensor
4H = Crank Angle Sensor
4I = Metering Oiling Pump
4J = Metering Oiling Pump
4K = Metering Oiling Pump
4L = Metering Oiling Pump
4M = PRC
4N = Switch
4O = EGR
4P = AWS
4Q = Idle Sensor Control
4R = Turbo Control
4S = Charge Relief
4T = Charge Control
4U = Wastegate Control
4V = Turbo Pre Control
4W = Injector
4X = Injector
4Y = Injector
4Z = Injector

4A = Black / White (Ground)
4B = Black / White (Ground)
4C = Black (Ground)
4D = Brown / Black (Ground)
4E = Crank Angle Sensor
4F = Split Air Bypass
4G = Crank Angle Sensor
4H = Crank Angle Sensor
4I = Metering Oiling Pump
4J = Metering Oiling Pump
4K = Metering Oiling Pump
4L = Metering Oiling Pump
4M = PRC
4N = Switch
4O = EGR
4P = AWS
4Q = Idle Sensor Control
4R = Turbo Control
4S = Charge Relief
4T = Charge Control
4U = Wastegate Control
4V = Turbo Pre Control
4W = Injector
4X = Injector
4Y = Injector
4Z = Injector

3A = Oil Metering Pump
3B = N EL Unit
3C = Oxygen Sensor
3D = O EL Unit
3E = Water Thermo Sensor
3F = Throttle Sensor
3G = Throttle Sensor
3H = Purge Control
3I = Throttle Sensor
3J = EGR
3K = Relief 2
3L = Intake Air Temp
3M = Knock Sensor
3N = Port Air Bypass
3O = Double Throttle Control
3P = Relief 1
Connector "3" still has a majority of wires, but Connector "4" is cut down quite a bit... Remember when looking at the connector diagrams you are looking at it on the end that the wires go into the Connector.



hey i just finished rewiring my entire car, i got into a reck about 9 months ago that ripped my harness apart so i pulled the one off of my parts car and went from there. but now i am left with one stock harness that is damaged right by the driver side headlight plug. well got to love spare parts.


