Resealing New Mazda Reman Oil Pan???
#1
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Resealing New Mazda Reman Oil Pan???
I will be installing a Mazda Reman soon and have heard from my mechanic that the oil pan needs to be resealed before installation or else it will leak. Can somebody give me the story on this? Do I need to reseal it with RTV right before dropping it in or what? What is the cause for this? TIA.
Alex
Alex
#3
Mr. Links
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I believe it's because in the past they used a paper gasket on the oil pan which eventually leaked (and needed to be resealed). I don't believe they do that anymore, but who knows.
If it was sealed with some oil resistance sealant already, I don't think you'll need to redo it. However if it's using a gasket, you might want to think about using some sealant instead (so you don't have to do it later).
If it was sealed with some oil resistance sealant already, I don't think you'll need to redo it. However if it's using a gasket, you might want to think about using some sealant instead (so you don't have to do it later).
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if you dont mind me asking, where are you getting your reman put in at? i am going to be dropping a motor into my car soon, and i was just wondering if there is anything good to know or anyone i should talk to first that i dont know about.
if it is called for, are you just going to unbolt the oil pan and go at it with a can of rtv? maybe we can hook up and find the right stuff together.
if it is called for, are you just going to unbolt the oil pan and go at it with a can of rtv? maybe we can hook up and find the right stuff together.
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When I rebuilt my engine I ditched the paper-gasket for a nice, thick layer of silicone sealer.
Never seen a drop of oil outside the engine since.
The gaskets ARE unreliable. I would make sure it's sealed okay before I'd drop the engine in.
Taking the oilpan of, resealing it and putting it back on should be done in less than 15 minutes.
Never seen a drop of oil outside the engine since.
The gaskets ARE unreliable. I would make sure it's sealed okay before I'd drop the engine in.
Taking the oilpan of, resealing it and putting it back on should be done in less than 15 minutes.
#6
I ended up buying a new pan from Brian at mazdaformance....I wanted to make sure I have a zero surface oil pan since when removing my old one, it became wavy...the shop runs about $320 to repair after engine install plus you lose all of your mobil 1 synthetic.
much easier to use the engine stand clean it and take your time. I tapped all of the pan hole to make sure threads are good...clean up old rtv from bolts.
clean up your oil pickup too...often it has suspended particles in the mesh.
much easier to use the engine stand clean it and take your time. I tapped all of the pan hole to make sure threads are good...clean up old rtv from bolts.
clean up your oil pickup too...often it has suspended particles in the mesh.
#7
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thanks for the replies guys. it looks like i will wait until the reman gets to me to see what i'll do. if there is already a silicon sealing it up then i might just try dropping it in there. if not then i'll rip the paper gasket out and seal it up with some black RTV.
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#8
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Originally posted by rx7speed811
if you dont mind me asking, where are you getting your reman put in at? i am going to be dropping a motor into my car soon, and i was just wondering if there is anything good to know or anyone i should talk to first that i dont know about.
if it is called for, are you just going to unbolt the oil pan and go at it with a can of rtv? maybe we can hook up and find the right stuff together.
if you dont mind me asking, where are you getting your reman put in at? i am going to be dropping a motor into my car soon, and i was just wondering if there is anything good to know or anyone i should talk to first that i dont know about.
if it is called for, are you just going to unbolt the oil pan and go at it with a can of rtv? maybe we can hook up and find the right stuff together.
Alex
#9
Rotary Freak
My mechanic uses Honda bond or toyota bond ,yamabond. ( the mazda bond is $40 per tube ) the sealer muct set for 3 days drying time to insure a leak free job. If a customer needs a reseal and does not have 3 days dry time he will not do the work. Auto part store RTV does not perform as well.
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Speaking from personal experience, here's 2 tips from me:
1) Pack the RTV on THICK. Don't waste your time on the paper gaskets.
2) Once you tighten down the the oil pan to the engine block, let it sit for 24 hrs.
It sucks to pull your engine JUST to fix the oilpan....take my word for it
1) Pack the RTV on THICK. Don't waste your time on the paper gaskets.
2) Once you tighten down the the oil pan to the engine block, let it sit for 24 hrs.
It sucks to pull your engine JUST to fix the oilpan....take my word for it
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alex,
will did my oil pan twice. Ask him what he used the second time.
We did bang the oil pan to flatten it out though.
Also, we let it sit for 4 days, for the sealant to cure properly.
The first try, we let it sit 2 days, and soon it leaks.
And don't use synthetic the first time, use some regular dyno oil.
Reza
will did my oil pan twice. Ask him what he used the second time.
We did bang the oil pan to flatten it out though.
Also, we let it sit for 4 days, for the sealant to cure properly.
The first try, we let it sit 2 days, and soon it leaks.
And don't use synthetic the first time, use some regular dyno oil.
Reza
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Originally posted by alwan16
the reman was going to be put in at C2 automotive in oakland but i have decided to have a go at it myself. so basically it'll be a garage project in the inner sunset you are welcome to come by and check it out once i get started.
Alex
the reman was going to be put in at C2 automotive in oakland but i have decided to have a go at it myself. so basically it'll be a garage project in the inner sunset you are welcome to come by and check it out once i get started.
Alex
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oh, and have you checked out bruce turrintino's (sp?) engine removal/install video? i am thinking about purchasing one, but if someone in the area already has a copy...
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