Yep. You'd be amazed at the difference new shift bushings make.

There are 4 bushings, the small cup bushing at the bottom ball, the slot bushing, and the top and bottom cup bushings for the large ball. The 2 larger cup bushings have springs with them as well.

You will also need the inner shift boot that bolts on with 3 bolts to the transmission, it's pretty much always torn up. There's a Miata boot that works perfectly that's much cheaper than the FD boot FYI.

This is all super easy to do in the car, just remove the plastic panel over the transmission and it's all there. Only need a 10mm wrench.

I've never cared for short shifters. Most of them shift worse than stock and it's hard to figure out what gear you're in. I've had a few people drive my car and comment on how awesome the shifter was, thought I had some short shift kit, and I just have a healthy stock shifter.

Dale

 

Another yep here. That's one thing that I'll bet most of us have dealt with. Once you change those boots, you'll notice the difference. Less heat, less smell, the shifter will feel much tighter, etc. Here's two places to get the parts.

www.mazdatrix.com
or
.www.atkinsrotary.com

 

There was a write up on rebuilding if your shifter if you want to check it out:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...build-1072268/

 

 

I would add one thing, change the oil in the shifter side of the tranny along with changing all the bushings. Use a small flexible plastic tube and a 50cc syringe to suck out the old dirty oil and add new synthetic oil, same oil as you use in the tranny. Then grease the ball well just like Sgtblue said. Makes a big difference.
Mike

 

 

Another +1 on replacing the shifter bushing. Best $15 I ever spent on a car was going to the aluminum bushing from the stock plastic one. I don't have a short throw but the shifting is so much crisper now I don't feel like I need one.

 

I had both a c's and an actual b&m shifter. Guess which one I'm using now? Stock...... I'm using a stock shifter with all new parts and a hefty r-magic shift ****. I very much prefer the stock shifter over the other 2. My shifter is from a 99 and it has a noticeably tighter and more direct feel than the 93.... to me anyway. There's no slop or anything in my shifter and it feels great. Use a stock shifter with a metal lower bushing if you want something super stiff. I tried it and it was a little too much for me. I'm using the oem bushing now. All the rebuild parts can be had for 60$ or less and can be swapped out in an afternoon.

 

0398-17-462A Lower Rod Bushing $5.12
M501-17-515 Lever Crescent Groove Bushing $7.72
M505-17-482 Wave Washer $11.20
M508-17-481A Change Bushing (blue) $4.17
R503-17-481 Change Bushing (black) $4.64
FD01-64-490A Insulator Boot $51.74
M513-17-480A Lower Dust Boot $39.41

Total - $124

 

 

Just to put this here as well, the small Miata inner shift boot is part number R501-17-47Z and it's about $12 as opposed to the FD part that's like $50. Works just the same, fits great, no mods needed.

This is a wear part big time, there's no reason to get the FD boot. I've seen new ones (in my car) die after a number of years, they take a lot of abuse.

The thread on rebuilding the shifter has great pics and a lot of other good info.

Dale

 

I had a Cs and B&M shifter. I also converted back to a rebuilt OEM shifter. You cannot beat the smoothness of OEM shifter. The throw is not even that long for a stock shifter. Best option if you are going to track IMO. Grease up the shifter well before installation. Smooth lubricated engagement = less forced entry (that sounds wrong lol) = less wear on syncros/other hardwares when shifting aggresively on the track.

 

I have the Mazdaspeed short shifter and I love it. It's basically the stock unit with the fulcrum point moved a bit higher. Shorter throws, but looks and feels the same with the stock shift ****. I've had it since around 1999 and it still feels great.

 

I've had a shortie in my car for years and meh... It's OK but for street, sometimes its a bit of a pain. I will jam it in 3rd sometimes when I'm going to 5th or yank it back into 2nd when I'm going for 4th sometimes to. I also have the engine brace on the car so the transmission isn't moving all over. I did get that aluminum bottom bushing a long time ago too and it has held up. Shifts just feel realy "notchy" now vs the buttery smooth stock. You MUST keep the heavy shift **** on there or find something weighted. I had 3 different aftermarket shift ***** because the leather on my stock piece if pealing off. They were all terrible. Missed shifts like crazy. Yeah, I know it's a driver error thing and I'll own that, but they sure didn't help and the shifting felt like it took a lot of effort.

 

I agree. The weighted **** is an absolute must. There is a distinct difference in shifting effort with and without

 

I thought I was just a weirdo. I really hated the feeling without the extra weight of the stock **** and missed shifts a lot more. I wish I could find a nice heavy replacement. My leather is pealing off pretty badly.

 

The r magic **** is what I've been using. They don't seem to be that hard to find. There's a few weighted options there. I think even a 1lb **** is available somewhere.

 

I've been running the knock off B&M. Did one track day with it and have no complaints so far.

 

i also have the knock off B&M/ RX7store shifter. its a little notchy and noisy, but the throws are mega short compared to the stock shifter, my only complain is the click it makes when going into gear, sounds like a sequential.

 

Has anyone had experience with the Stillway 0-400 shifter? Those things are pretty rare but look awesome in function with the lockout and gate linkage. I've always wondered how the regular, not-lockout, mode of the shifter actually felt.

Skeese