When I cold start my car the idle rises to 2000 rpm. After removing my UIM back in the winter I noticed there was a AWS block off plate. The AWS tube was already removed. So my question is what else needs to be removed?

I have a JDM RX7 and a power FC if that helps. Also, I am pretty sure this has nothing to do with the PFC but I could be wrong.

 

Remove the throttle body coolant and tie back the fast idle cam with some safety wire but you will then need to adjust your idle or it may stall when cold.

 

the AWS goes to 3000rpm, and if its been removed, then you're done removing it...

 

But you will still have a fast idle unless you remove the throttle body coolant.

 

The 3k idle is kind of annoying, the 2k idle not so much. It only stays at 2k for a few sec anyways, mine drop close to 1k after a few sec and down to 850 once everything warm up, I would just leave it.

 

JDM cars don't have AWS, that was a US-only thing. So you're good there.

I think the ISC is just bumping the idle a bit when it's cold.

Dale

 

Missed that one lol

 

Hi there,

so this begs the question...the block off plate that is installed, if its not the AWS, then what has been blocked off? The only thing I can think of at the back of the Upper LIM is the ISC valve. Maybe a picture of the area would assist?
Cheers - Rusty

 

Wish I had a picture when I had it out. 2000 RPM isn't that bad but still pointless because im patient enough to wait until my car is fully warmed up. Anyways I haven't blocked off the Idle speed control. Can anyone explain how this changes my idle when cold I would appreciate it

 

Mine will stay until the car is fully warmed up and slowly drops as the temp rises

 

Is this something simple that can be easily changes because I've dealt with the 2000 idle for years now so its not a huge deal. It just didn't make sense to me when I looked under my UIM

Sorry for the late response to everyone I've been pretty busy lately

 

Hate posting on my phone so excuse the many replies

Found this online but mine is set up exactly like this

 

^ Same as my setup, AWS and double throttle removed.

 

OK, that pic tells us a few things:

1- you don't have a JDM upper LIM as Dale was expecting.

2 - can we confirm that the coolant hoses to the throttle body are still in place of removed?

3 - If is there and the system is still function, adjustment can be made as per page F-78 of the FSM

http://wright-here.net/files/manuals...sion_Cntrl.pdf

4 - If the coolant hoses are blocked, the power FC does have the ability to add more fuel based on coolant temp/ air temp. I have a datalogit, so I can see that, do you have that or the hand controller only?

I think we are getting somewhere!

Rusty

 

he totally said that is not his UIM but a picture to show what has been blocked off.



as others have said, you do have AWS blocked off. It is the fast idle cam causing you to idle at 2k when cold, NOT aws. you are aws-less.

 

Yeah It has to be that man, fast idle cam is the same as idle speed control right? If you can guide me in the right direction I should be able to adjust it on my own. Is everything I need to know in the FSM?

 

Thanks for the help man, everything is removed so it has to be the ISC or the fast idle cam whichever one is the right one

 

it is supposed to fast idle when its cold...

 

ISC is different than the fast idle cam. The fast idle cam is a mechanical assembly attached to the firewall side of the throttlebody. The coolant that runs through the throttle body heats up a thermowax, which causes a plunger to extend, to gradually close the TB butterflies as the car warms up. All this is achieved via the fast idle cam. the ISC..i do not know much about, but it is different(and electronic, i believe).


The sections in the FSM are pretty useless IMO, but they help if you're trying to get a greater understanding of how everything works. Searching this forum is better.

I disabled my fast idle and can point you in the right direction....

But the ONLY reason I disabled it is because I needed/wanted to re-route the coolant hose going to the TB. I would for sure leave it enabled otherwise (I actually may re-enable it in the future). AWS is crappy emissions tool, fast idle cam actually helps the car idle smoothly on cold starts. You being from Canada may appreciate it~


This page shows the procedure:

How to Remove Coolant Flow to the Throttle Body

at the bottom of the page he shows how to use saftey wire to hold the cam in position.
(Since there is no more coolant flow, the wax never heats up, the plunger never extends, and you'd be stuck at 2000RPM forever)

I suppose you don't have to re-route the coolant line to do this.
You could simply warm the car up to OT, look at the position of the plunger/screw, and tie it in place there.
But for real.......I don't see the point unless you're removing the h20 flow as well..


I used the alternative option he suggests (instead of saftey wire), where you remove the spring from the screw, then screw the screw in all the way to hold the cam in position.


ideally though you'd remove the whole wax-rod assembly once the coolant has been rerouted.


I played with my TB a lot during this process learning how all the butterflies and cams work together. I'd suggest doing the same if you aren't too familiar with it.

Goodluck

 

I forgot to thank you, thanks for your time and the info you gave me. I will see what I can do but I will consider the positives and the negatives thatncome from removing it.

 

no problem. good luck

FWIW nothing major will go wrong with it removed besides troublesome cold starts. I just think it shouldnt be removed unless you're trying to reroute coolant or into hardcore weight reduction (racing)