Quick question about AWS
05-03-14, 09:06 AM
#1
Quick question about AWS
When I cold start my car the idle rises to 2000 rpm. After removing my UIM back in the winter I noticed there was a AWS block off plate. The AWS tube was already removed. So my question is what else needs to be removed?
I have a JDM RX7 and a power FC if that helps. Also, I am pretty sure this has nothing to do with the PFC but I could be wrong.
I have a JDM RX7 and a power FC if that helps. Also, I am pretty sure this has nothing to do with the PFC but I could be wrong.
05-03-14, 05:51 PM
#3
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the AWS goes to 3000rpm, and if its been removed, then you're done removing it...
05-04-14, 10:52 AM
#6
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JDM cars don't have AWS, that was a US-only thing. So you're good there.
I think the ISC is just bumping the idle a bit when it's cold.
Dale
I think the ISC is just bumping the idle a bit when it's cold.
Dale
05-04-14, 03:22 PM
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Hi there,
so this begs the question...the block off plate that is installed, if its not the AWS, then what has been blocked off? The only thing I can think of at the back of the Upper LIM is the ISC valve. Maybe a picture of the area would assist?
Cheers - Rusty
so this begs the question...the block off plate that is installed, if its not the AWS, then what has been blocked off? The only thing I can think of at the back of the Upper LIM is the ISC valve. Maybe a picture of the area would assist?
Cheers - Rusty
05-04-14, 09:38 PM
#9
Wish I had a picture when I had it out. 2000 RPM isn't that bad but still pointless because im patient enough to wait until my car is fully warmed up. Anyways I haven't blocked off the Idle speed control. Can anyone explain how this changes my idle when cold I would appreciate it
05-04-14, 09:44 PM
#11
Sorry for the late response to everyone I've been pretty busy lately
05-05-14, 12:43 AM
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OK, that pic tells us a few things:
1- you don't have a JDM upper LIM as Dale was expecting.
2 - can we confirm that the coolant hoses to the throttle body are still in place of removed?
3 - If is there and the system is still function, adjustment can be made as per page F-78 of the FSM
http://wright-here.net/files/manuals...sion_Cntrl.pdf
4 - If the coolant hoses are blocked, the power FC does have the ability to add more fuel based on coolant temp/ air temp. I have a datalogit, so I can see that, do you have that or the hand controller only?
I think we are getting somewhere!
Rusty
1- you don't have a JDM upper LIM as Dale was expecting.
2 - can we confirm that the coolant hoses to the throttle body are still in place of removed?
3 - If is there and the system is still function, adjustment can be made as per page F-78 of the FSM
http://wright-here.net/files/manuals...sion_Cntrl.pdf
4 - If the coolant hoses are blocked, the power FC does have the ability to add more fuel based on coolant temp/ air temp. I have a datalogit, so I can see that, do you have that or the hand controller only?
I think we are getting somewhere!
Rusty
05-05-14, 01:38 PM
#15
OK, that pic tells us a few things:
1- you don't have a JDM upper LIM as Dale was expecting.
2 - can we confirm that the coolant hoses to the throttle body are still in place of removed?
3 - If is there and the system is still function, adjustment can be made as per page F-78 of the FSM
http://wright-here.net/files/manuals...sion_Cntrl.pdf
4 - If the coolant hoses are blocked, the power FC does have the ability to add more fuel based on coolant temp/ air temp. I have a datalogit, so I can see that, do you have that or the hand controller only?
I think we are getting somewhere!
Rusty
1- you don't have a JDM upper LIM as Dale was expecting.
2 - can we confirm that the coolant hoses to the throttle body are still in place of removed?
3 - If is there and the system is still function, adjustment can be made as per page F-78 of the FSM
http://wright-here.net/files/manuals...sion_Cntrl.pdf
4 - If the coolant hoses are blocked, the power FC does have the ability to add more fuel based on coolant temp/ air temp. I have a datalogit, so I can see that, do you have that or the hand controller only?
I think we are getting somewhere!
Rusty
as others have said, you do have AWS blocked off. It is the fast idle cam causing you to idle at 2k when cold, NOT aws. you are aws-less.
05-05-14, 06:09 PM
#17
OK, that pic tells us a few things:
1- you don't have a JDM upper LIM as Dale was expecting.
2 - can we confirm that the coolant hoses to the throttle body are still in place of removed?
3 - If is there and the system is still function, adjustment can be made as per page F-78 of the FSM
http://wright-here.net/files/manuals...sion_Cntrl.pdf
4 - If the coolant hoses are blocked, the power FC does have the ability to add more fuel based on coolant temp/ air temp. I have a datalogit, so I can see that, do you have that or the hand controller only?
I think we are getting somewhere!
Rusty
1- you don't have a JDM upper LIM as Dale was expecting.
2 - can we confirm that the coolant hoses to the throttle body are still in place of removed?
3 - If is there and the system is still function, adjustment can be made as per page F-78 of the FSM
http://wright-here.net/files/manuals...sion_Cntrl.pdf
4 - If the coolant hoses are blocked, the power FC does have the ability to add more fuel based on coolant temp/ air temp. I have a datalogit, so I can see that, do you have that or the hand controller only?
I think we are getting somewhere!
Rusty
05-05-14, 07:08 PM
#18
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it is supposed to fast idle when its cold...
05-05-14, 07:42 PM
#19
The sections in the FSM are pretty useless IMO, but they help if you're trying to get a greater understanding of how everything works. Searching this forum is better.
I disabled my fast idle and can point you in the right direction....
But the ONLY reason I disabled it is because I needed/wanted to re-route the coolant hose going to the TB. I would for sure leave it enabled otherwise (I actually may re-enable it in the future). AWS is crappy emissions tool, fast idle cam actually helps the car idle smoothly on cold starts. You being from Canada may appreciate it~
This page shows the procedure:
How to Remove Coolant Flow to the Throttle Body
at the bottom of the page he shows how to use saftey wire to hold the cam in position.
(Since there is no more coolant flow, the wax never heats up, the plunger never extends, and you'd be stuck at 2000RPM forever)
I suppose you don't have to re-route the coolant line to do this.
You could simply warm the car up to OT, look at the position of the plunger/screw, and tie it in place there.
But for real.......I don't see the point unless you're removing the h20 flow as well..
I used the alternative option he suggests (instead of saftey wire), where you remove the spring from the screw, then screw the screw in all the way to hold the cam in position.
ideally though you'd remove the whole wax-rod assembly once the coolant has been rerouted.
I played with my TB a lot during this process learning how all the butterflies and cams work together. I'd suggest doing the same if you aren't too familiar with it.
Goodluck
05-11-14, 07:00 AM
#20
ISC is different than the fast idle cam. The fast idle cam is a mechanical assembly attached to the firewall side of the throttlebody. The coolant that runs through the throttle body heats up a thermowax, which causes a plunger to extend, to gradually close the TB butterflies as the car warms up. All this is achieved via the fast idle cam. the ISC..i do not know much about, but it is different(and electronic, i believe).
The sections in the FSM are pretty useless IMO, but they help if you're trying to get a greater understanding of how everything works. Searching this forum is better.
I disabled my fast idle and can point you in the right direction....
But the ONLY reason I disabled it is because I needed/wanted to re-route the coolant hose going to the TB. I would for sure leave it enabled otherwise (I actually may re-enable it in the future). AWS is crappy emissions tool, fast idle cam actually helps the car idle smoothly on cold starts. You being from Canada may appreciate it~
This page shows the procedure:
How to Remove Coolant Flow to the Throttle Body
at the bottom of the page he shows how to use saftey wire to hold the cam in position.
(Since there is no more coolant flow, the wax never heats up, the plunger never extends, and you'd be stuck at 2000RPM forever)
I suppose you don't have to re-route the coolant line to do this.
You could simply warm the car up to OT, look at the position of the plunger/screw, and tie it in place there.
But for real.......I don't see the point unless you're removing the h20 flow as well..
I used the alternative option he suggests (instead of saftey wire), where you remove the spring from the screw, then screw the screw in all the way to hold the cam in position.
ideally though you'd remove the whole wax-rod assembly once the coolant has been rerouted.
I played with my TB a lot during this process learning how all the butterflies and cams work together. I'd suggest doing the same if you aren't too familiar with it.
Goodluck
The sections in the FSM are pretty useless IMO, but they help if you're trying to get a greater understanding of how everything works. Searching this forum is better.
I disabled my fast idle and can point you in the right direction....
But the ONLY reason I disabled it is because I needed/wanted to re-route the coolant hose going to the TB. I would for sure leave it enabled otherwise (I actually may re-enable it in the future). AWS is crappy emissions tool, fast idle cam actually helps the car idle smoothly on cold starts. You being from Canada may appreciate it~
This page shows the procedure:
How to Remove Coolant Flow to the Throttle Body
at the bottom of the page he shows how to use saftey wire to hold the cam in position.
(Since there is no more coolant flow, the wax never heats up, the plunger never extends, and you'd be stuck at 2000RPM forever)
I suppose you don't have to re-route the coolant line to do this.
You could simply warm the car up to OT, look at the position of the plunger/screw, and tie it in place there.
But for real.......I don't see the point unless you're removing the h20 flow as well..
I used the alternative option he suggests (instead of saftey wire), where you remove the spring from the screw, then screw the screw in all the way to hold the cam in position.
ideally though you'd remove the whole wax-rod assembly once the coolant has been rerouted.
I played with my TB a lot during this process learning how all the butterflies and cams work together. I'd suggest doing the same if you aren't too familiar with it.
Goodluck
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