Hey guys,

I'm having some trouble and need a little push in the right direction. My car is a 95, all stock except twin intake and downpipe.

I put in a water pump today and forgot the little bracket that holds a bunch of wires up under the pump. I started the engine and those wires got caught in the belts of course. There was one loom with 6 wires in it and another loom with 4 wires in it. I reattached all the wires and went for a drive, everything was fine until the car got up to temp. At about 180F the CEL comes on and the car sounds like its spooling, but when vac gets up to 0 the car sputters out and won't boost, just like limp mode.

I checked the codes, I had codes 25 and 27. So I tore apart my car yet again. I found one bad wire, repaired it, then checked codes again. Now I'm only getting code 25. I just need to know if any of those wires I massacred have anything to do with the pressure regulator solenoid, or if I should start looking elsewhere. My wire repairs look ok and are sturdy, it just seems weird that the pressure regulator solenoid would short out all of a sudden. I've already removed and installed the top half of my engine 3 times today, I want to make sure it's good to go next time I put it together haha.

Any advice or words of encouragement will be greatly appreciated...it's been a bad day in the garage


heres a pic of the wire carnage

 

I investigated a little further and found that the loom with 4 wires in it was also sheared off down by the OMP. There are two broken wires coming from the OMP, I'm assuming they are for oil temp? that would explain the code for pressure regulator control, which is only needed for hot starts. I just don't know where the other two wires in the loom hook up to...maybe the main OMP harness connector that hooks to the loom with 6 wires in it? That would be strange i guess

Pic

 

it looks like those 2 wires got yanked from the OMP connector. since you originally said there were 6 wires coming from it, that would explain the other 2.

And yes, the fuel pressure solenoid is only used for hot starts. If you want to get rid of codes, unplug the battery for like 10 mins to reset the ECU. Old school OBD1.

 

All right I just got a better look at it. There are 3 wires that are hard wired into a little black box on the side of the OMP. Blue, yellow, and black. And there are actually 3 wires in the smaller loom, not 4 like I thought earlier. So that is cleared up. Now the question is, what is the little box on the side of the OMP? And why does it throw trouble code 25? The OMP troubleshooting guide in the fsm does not mention code 25 at all.

 

I'd have to look at mine in order to tell you and I'm at work.

 

Thanks for taking the time to help me out man, I really do appreciate it.

In the pic above you can see the main connector on the bottom right with the bigger loom hooked up to it. On the top right you can see the little blue and yellow wire nubs sticking out of the black mystery box. I'll see if I can shove my phone up there and get a better pic of the box. I know one of the gurus around here has to know what it is.

 

here's the close up.

 

Oil metering pump. You are going to have to try to repair the wiring or replace it.

 

Just for anyone who searches in the future... the little black box which is attached to the OMP with 2 Philips screws and has 3 wires coming from it is called the linear position sensor.

I'll be yanking the OMP to see if I can take the position sensor off and reattach the wires.

I still don't understand why I'm getting code 25 from broken OMP wires. I'll just keep moving forward and see if I can solve this.

 

Here is the mystery box a.k.a position sensor. Turns out this box can't be opened to access the wires inside. So now I'm in the middle of the worlds most difficult wire splice. I got the wires spun up super tight, now I'm coating them with plasti dip since the nubs were way too small for any kind of connector. I'm hoping a super thick coating of plasti dip plus some electrical tape where I can fit it will hold up for a while. This is all temporary of course, but should be good enough to get out of the garage.

 

fixed. no more code 25...still confused as to what the OMP position sensor has to do with the pressure regulator solenoid, but whatever, a win is a win.

P.S. thank god for plastidip...saved my *** today