When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Are you guys using the OEM latch, along with the quick latch hood pins?
I was using the latch only initially with my CF hood and it was very floppy at highway speeds and began to hairline crack around the latch, after add the quick latches I had no more issues.
If I was mounting a new hood with no factory latch I'd use four of the small quick latches, two along the front end of the bumper and one behind each headlight.
I was using the latch only initially with my CF hood and it was very floppy at highway speeds and began to hairline crack around the latch, after add the quick latches I had no more issues.
If I was mounting a new hood with no factory latch I'd use four of the small quick latches, two along the front end of the bumper and one behind each headlight.
Thanks for the feedback!
I had a shine hood on my fc, with the OEM latch, and the hood started to crack after a couple of years. I've been contemplating removing the oem latch for quite some time...
The people at quik-latch strongly advise against using the QL-25, alone, to secure the hood. When using the QL-25 they say to also keep using the standard latch. The QL-38, on the other hand, can secure the hood without the factory latch.
EVERY SINGLE PERSON I have ever known that has removed their OEM hood latch and gone to hood pins has had their hood fly up and smash on the roof of the car. There's way too many things that can cause you to forget if the hood is latched or not.
Don't do it. The damage caused by a hood flying up at speed is bad, and there's also the possibility of getting into a major accident when suddenly you can't see.
OEM hood latches are designed the way they are for a very good reason.
I am as well. My striker bar has a worn groove where the latch catches it. Don't ask me how it happened, I bought it like that. Movement at high speeds was slight, but annoying. Zero movement now.
I finally got the courage to tackle this a few days ago. I ordered the next size up QL38 which is probably what I should have ordered the first time since they are recommended for hood pins unlike the QL25 that I originally ordered. https://www.quik-latch.com/QL-38-Series-Hood-Pins.html
The QL38 are larger diameter so I had to enlarge the hole from when I attempted to install the QL25 by drilling. I did some research and learned about the 561 router bit on the Dremel rotary tool. I charged the battery to my Dremel and slowly enlarged the hole. Here's a crappy video of me slowly enlarging the hole diameter in case anyone needs ideas of their own. The hole didn't wind up being a clean circle but a removed a bit of material at a time and test fit the QL38 until it was bit enough and round enough to install.
Definitely use lots of painters tape to protect the hood. Widening the hole in this manner took a long time and it slipped a few times as my hands got tired.
I finally got the courage to tackle this a few days ago. I ordered the next size up QL38 which is probably what I should have ordered the first time since they are recommended for hood pins unlike the QL25 that I originally ordered. https://www.quik-latch.com/QL-38-Series-Hood-Pins.html
The QL38 are larger diameter so I had to enlarge the hole from when I attempted to install the QL25 by drilling. I did some research and learned about the 561 router bit on the Dremel rotary tool. I charged the battery to my Dremel and slowly enlarged the hole. Here's a crappy video of me slowly enlarging the hole diameter in case anyone needs ideas of their own. The hole didn't wind up being a clean circle but a removed a bit of material at a time and test fit the QL38 until it was bit enough and round enough to install. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ccR...Wf1LXg54AaABAg
Definitely use lots of painters tape to protect the hood. Widening the hole in this manner took a long time and it slipped a few times as my hands got tired.
I guess we can call this a success
spot on. ql-25 are not recommended. Ql-38 with a visit to ace for matching washers and you are done. Nice work.
Thanks for the write up and video. How come QL25 is not recommended? I am using them along with the factory hood latch on a CF hood, so it feels pretty secure to me. I've also track tested it a couple times and it held nice and solid.
Thanks for the write up and video. How come QL25 is not recommended? I am using them along with the factory hood latch on a CF hood, so it feels pretty secure to me. I've also track tested it a couple times and it held nice and solid.
It’s just the manufacturers recommendation. Ql-25 are considered safe for use as fasteners. Ql-38 and above for hoods. Again it’s just the manufacturers recommendation. You may be fine with the oem latch also in play.
Just to show what bits I used when drilling my hood. A 3/4 inch for the top and 1 1/8 for the bottom. The teeth stick out slightly, so the resulting hole will be somewhat larger that the listed diameter. The stock hood has sandwiched panels so the bottom hole has to be bigger for the nut to clear.
It looks like you used the hole saws to drill into the stock aluminum hood. Results are probably different than drilling into a carbon fiber hood.
I'm curious if the diameter of the hole that was cut is the same as the diameter of the hole saw when used on stock aluminum hood?
Pardon the ignorance, where exactly do the nut and washer/bushing go? Between the Quik-Latch and the carbon fiber hood or underneath the carbon fiber hood?
And what is the size for this nut & washer/bushing?
Originally Posted by Aarkaah
Same here. This is a must do with any cf hood. Ace matching diameter washers.
Ql-38. Painted to match the hood. With ace washers. Perfect weighting. No movement.
I wanna guess the thin washer/bushing goes right underneath the Quik-Latch (on top of the hood), and the nut goes underneath the hood itself?
The quick latch top part is thick enough and wide enough (the screw on retaining nut is not as wide). The carbon fiber hoods are typically too thin so the weighted washer goes under the cf hood and is followed by the nut to get the quick latch bolt to bite properly on the aftermarket hood. Added plus is the weighted washer helps bring the hood down easy.
Know this is an old thread, but I do love how small these latches footprint are on the hood compaired to the aerocatch ones... I went to summit racing to check out the pricing ($28 cant be beat)and that's when I noticed there are different versions. Which ones are everyone running. I see they have QL-25-SB QL-25-SB1 QL-25-SB2 QL-25-SB22.
I used the smaller (1" hole) versions for years of track use, I assume those are the 25 model. I think that if they are the only thing holding your hood on, like on a race car, then maybe you want the larger ones, but if you're using them in conjunction with a hood latch on a fairly well made hood, they're perfectly adequate.
I used the smaller (1" hole) versions for years of track use, I assume those are the 25 model. I think that if they are the only thing holding your hood on, like on a race car, then maybe you want the larger ones, but if you're using them in conjunction with a hood latch on a fairly well made hood, they're perfectly adequate.
@ptrhahn
thanks, so just to confirm that's the SB1 model correct? Or is it the 1 1/4? I ask because the sb1 model seems a little thicker/bulkier up top.
And yes I will still be using the latch I just want the added protection with the new cf hood
Also still need a longer pin behind the head light correct?
Yes, you'll need a longer pin. I actually used one of the holes for the washer/overflow tanks (since I don't have them anymore) rather than the spot where the rubber bumper is, but I assume they are similar.
Yes, you'll need a longer pin. I actually used one of the holes for the washer/overflow tanks (since I don't have them anymore) rather than the spot where the rubber bumper is, but I assume they are similar.
Hmm wouldn't it still be possible to use the washer/overflow tank locations. Even though you aren't using a bolt to hold it, your using the pins?
@ptrhahn
thanks, so just to confirm that's the SB1 model correct? Or is it the 1 1/4? I ask because the sb1 model seems a little thicker/bulkier up top.
And yes I will still be using the latch I just want the added protection with the new cf hood
Also still need a longer pin behind the head light correct?
@gracer7-rx7
you got any pictures on how much bigger the 38 looks on the car? I didnt notice any pictures of your car in here. Just that video of you dremeling
Also any better place to buy the 4inch pins? I can justify spending 2 dollars more on Amazon and getting the latches for 30 dollars each and 2 day shipping but they want 20 dollars for 1 pin on Amazon. Is this called something else I can get at a home depot or local hardware store? It's 7.99 at summit and other but they also kill you with shipping of 15.99 or 16.99
After searching for 3-4 days. I found a site that sells the 4inch pins for 6.95 plus $4 and change shipping which is super more reasonable than summit/jegz and other sites that sell quik latch products that want $15-$16 for shipping. Let alone Amazon for $23.00(for 1) with prime.
The hole didn't wind up being a clean circle but a removed a bit of material at a time and test fit the QL38 until it was bit enough and round enough to install.
