Air pump and ACV delete w/OEM mid pipe
Air pump and ACV delete w/OEM mid pipe
I’m currently cleaning up the rats nest from my 92 RHD FD running a Power FC and I’m wanting to go the “Simplified Sequential” route. Below are a few questions and thoughts for this discussion
* As the title states, I’m looking at deleting both the air pump and ACV but retaining the OEM midpipe, or is a catted midpipe a must?
* If deleted, what all needs to be updated on the PFC so that the car can retain its driveability and can it be done via the Commander (no current access to Datalogit)
* Any other tidbits I might run into? Boost creep, Idle issues, need for a new tune?
* Block off plates, additional idler pulley kit are in the process of being purchased, am I missing any other major hardware?
Thank you for all input, most especially to Dale Clark (if he sees this!) 🙂
- Tony
* As the title states, I’m looking at deleting both the air pump and ACV but retaining the OEM midpipe, or is a catted midpipe a must?
* If deleted, what all needs to be updated on the PFC so that the car can retain its driveability and can it be done via the Commander (no current access to Datalogit)
* Any other tidbits I might run into? Boost creep, Idle issues, need for a new tune?
* Block off plates, additional idler pulley kit are in the process of being purchased, am I missing any other major hardware?
Thank you for all input, most especially to Dale Clark (if he sees this!) 🙂
- Tony
Dig around in the threads some more. A lot of this has been covered (I know that is not the answer you want).
A catted midpipe is not required; however, you will see boost creep and will need to put some kind of restriction after your downpipe and before the midpipe. The smell from a catless exhaust is pretty obnoxious, something that myself and others do not care to deal with. I would recommend a highflow cat if you can swing it. Do not run the stock cat without an airpump. You will clog it out.
Most people recommend getting a stand alone boost controller. The stock boost controller is not great with the powerFC. At a minimum, buy some mac valves and wire them into the stock wiring to replace the boost controllers. If you do go with an aftermarked boost controller, I would recommend closed loop over open loop. Open loop will leave you chasing your tail every time the weather changes. Finally if you cannot afford a boost controller, just run spring pressure until you can afford one.
You need to get a datalogit and at a minimum FC Tweak, at most a professional dyno tune. The PowerFC comes untuned. But as far as boxes to check or wires to splice, from what I remember, the power FC does not require that. The computer has no fail safes and will run the car without things plugged in.
The FD modification path really has great leaps instead of small steps. Deleted your airpump is more expensive than just ordering a pully and block off plates. This is probably not what you want to hear, but doing it right is cheaper than a new engine.
A catted midpipe is not required; however, you will see boost creep and will need to put some kind of restriction after your downpipe and before the midpipe. The smell from a catless exhaust is pretty obnoxious, something that myself and others do not care to deal with. I would recommend a highflow cat if you can swing it. Do not run the stock cat without an airpump. You will clog it out.
Most people recommend getting a stand alone boost controller. The stock boost controller is not great with the powerFC. At a minimum, buy some mac valves and wire them into the stock wiring to replace the boost controllers. If you do go with an aftermarked boost controller, I would recommend closed loop over open loop. Open loop will leave you chasing your tail every time the weather changes. Finally if you cannot afford a boost controller, just run spring pressure until you can afford one.
You need to get a datalogit and at a minimum FC Tweak, at most a professional dyno tune. The PowerFC comes untuned. But as far as boxes to check or wires to splice, from what I remember, the power FC does not require that. The computer has no fail safes and will run the car without things plugged in.
The FD modification path really has great leaps instead of small steps. Deleted your airpump is more expensive than just ordering a pully and block off plates. This is probably not what you want to hear, but doing it right is cheaper than a new engine.
Dig around in the threads some more. A lot of this has been covered (I know that is not the answer you want).
A catted midpipe is not required; however, you will see boost creep and will need to put some kind of restriction after your downpipe and before the midpipe. The smell from a catless exhaust is pretty obnoxious, something that myself and others do not care to deal with. I would recommend a highflow cat if you can swing it. Do not run the stock cat without an airpump. You will clog it out.
Most people recommend getting a stand alone boost controller. The stock boost controller is not great with the powerFC. At a minimum, buy some mac valves and wire them into the stock wiring to replace the boost controllers. If you do go with an aftermarked boost controller, I would recommend closed loop over open loop. Open loop will leave you chasing your tail every time the weather changes. Finally if you cannot afford a boost controller, just run spring pressure until you can afford one.
You need to get a datalogit and at a minimum FC Tweak, at most a professional dyno tune. The PowerFC comes untuned. But as far as boxes to check or wires to splice, from what I remember, the power FC does not require that. The computer has no fail safes and will run the car without things plugged in.
The FD modification path really has great leaps instead of small steps. Deleted your airpump is more expensive than just ordering a pully and block off plates. This is probably not what you want to hear, but doing it right is cheaper than a new engine.
A catted midpipe is not required; however, you will see boost creep and will need to put some kind of restriction after your downpipe and before the midpipe. The smell from a catless exhaust is pretty obnoxious, something that myself and others do not care to deal with. I would recommend a highflow cat if you can swing it. Do not run the stock cat without an airpump. You will clog it out.
Most people recommend getting a stand alone boost controller. The stock boost controller is not great with the powerFC. At a minimum, buy some mac valves and wire them into the stock wiring to replace the boost controllers. If you do go with an aftermarked boost controller, I would recommend closed loop over open loop. Open loop will leave you chasing your tail every time the weather changes. Finally if you cannot afford a boost controller, just run spring pressure until you can afford one.
You need to get a datalogit and at a minimum FC Tweak, at most a professional dyno tune. The PowerFC comes untuned. But as far as boxes to check or wires to splice, from what I remember, the power FC does not require that. The computer has no fail safes and will run the car without things plugged in.
The FD modification path really has great leaps instead of small steps. Deleted your airpump is more expensive than just ordering a pully and block off plates. This is probably not what you want to hear, but doing it right is cheaper than a new engine.
Just picked up FC Tweak and the DL-340XB box. I’ll be using that to clean up the stock map but will be keeping things intact until I get the wideband installed. As stated before, I’m deep in the 40’s now and I’m not looking for massive power (275whp tops for now) just cleaning up the engine bay and creating redundancy in eliminating some smog parts. I do plan on at least going cat’d midpipe in the future (old FD was full 3”, I know the smell well) with just having OEM parts with the exception of PFC, Racing Beat cat back and Pettit Intercooler and intake. A who’s who of period correct parts looking to be tuned by FC Tweak auto-tune 🙏🏽
Near Future project- A set of 99’ twins I’ve got on standby, Greddy Downpipe and Greddy ProFec boost controller all after a completely overhauled fuel system (hoses, filters, flowed injectors, pump, etc), retune
Future project- Full build, mild street port, and retune
End product, 320whp
Thank you again for the input, I was aware of the boost creep but had no idea on the clogging of the cat, good catch!
Tony
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