Premix question:
#1
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Premix question:
I have never used premix in my gas,
and I will be using it soon.
So i got some questions:
Will the Premix good/bad/clog fuel filter? or Injectors?
Will it cause any unusual order or smoke??
thanks...
and I will be using it soon.
So i got some questions:
Will the Premix good/bad/clog fuel filter? or Injectors?
Will it cause any unusual order or smoke??
thanks...
#3
Its kinda like extra insurance. People swear by it and other people wont put oil in the gas tank. I dont and have researched it and maybe someday I would. But for now Mazda didnt release a statement so far saying add premix everytime you fill up. Its all personal preferance. The way I was told (because i asked the same exact questions as you White) is it will not clog anything, its like its so thin or something like that. Nothing unsual will come of it. Me I believe it works just not enough to where I run out and buy some pre-mix. Just something strange about putting oil in my gast tank, my hands just wont do it.
#4
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I use marvel mystery oil (MMO). Supposedly this will clean and lube the fuel system too. Like street king says, it's just extra insurance. I have a pfc, and I have read somewhere that it doesn't control the OMP 100%. If you have a haltec your OMP is non functional and you therefore HAVE to run premix. So I've been told.
#5
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Originally posted by RedFD
I dont see why this stuff is need when we have oil injection from the factory. What is in the premix?
I dont see why this stuff is need when we have oil injection from the factory. What is in the premix?
The oil injection system in the RX7s is adequete it's said, but does not deliver lubricating oil to every corner as is ideal. If I'm not mistaken, there is only one oil 'spray' outlet per rotor. Premixing extends this lubrication coverage, and just simply peace of mind in case of the rare event the oil metering pump goes out.
Every Mazda specialist service shop I have every spoke with says its a good idea, and I have been doing premix (Marvel Mystery Oil) religiously since my new engine 10K miles ago, 6-8oz every 12-13 gallon fillup.
#6
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As for any odors/etc, I have noticed that MMO reduces the puff of white smoke after the cold starts I would get after I removed the precat. I had this same puff with my original engine and the new engine, with the precat removed.
I have experimented with other two-storke oils, and did not notice any decrease otherwise. Hardly scientific, but a few others have reported the same. Not sure what's in MMO to do this.
Daniel
I have experimented with other two-storke oils, and did not notice any decrease otherwise. Hardly scientific, but a few others have reported the same. Not sure what's in MMO to do this.
Daniel
#7
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when adding the marvel oil, do you add it in, let's say the frequency that you would the pettit proyek-r, every tank? or would you add it like the mmo label says, and do it once every few tanks....
louis
louis
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#8
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Originally posted by R Xplicit
when adding the marvel oil, do you add it in, let's say the frequency that you would the pettit proyek-r, every tank? or would you add it like the mmo label says, and do it once every few tanks....
louis
when adding the marvel oil, do you add it in, let's say the frequency that you would the pettit proyek-r, every tank? or would you add it like the mmo label says, and do it once every few tanks....
louis
I know that it really does help in reducing friction, as that my fuel mileage in my Civic has increased by around 2- 3mpg over the last ten fillups I had been using it. I've been too lazy to find a place that sells the larger bulk container, so have missed the last two fillups and my mileage has dropped again. Again, not scientific and YMMV.
#10
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Originally posted by RedFD
Shouldnt you shut the oil injection off if your using premix then? Seems like you would be putting too much oil in there and would lower the octane.
Shouldnt you shut the oil injection off if your using premix then? Seems like you would be putting too much oil in there and would lower the octane.
Daniel
#11
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The added benefit of premix versus just oil injection is because the oil metering pump does not have sufficient pressure to do as it is designed. The oil injection has been on rotaries for a long time and has been about the same from NA engines through the 13B-REW. However, there have been very few alterations (granted mechanical and electrical, but no changes between specific pump's pressures). The easiest explanation is to think of what is actually happening when you need the lubrication the most: WOT w/ boost. You have a pressure that is proportionate to rpm from the pump, but it does not take into account that the pressure in the combustion chamber is drastically higher when you add boost. 10-14 of boost with the added fuel your ECU compensates creates a very high pressure in the chamber as the seal passes the point where stock oil injection occurs. The oil must force its way into the mixture as it is now under more pressure and the stock pump doesn't have sufficient pressure to do so. So if you drove around at low boost levels constantly, you wouldn't need to premix, but if you want the added insurance of making sure the apex seal doesn't "stick" and pop your motor, I believe it's worth the inconvenience at the gas station and having to stock premix.
I would like to stress that I am not saying that by choosing to stay with stock oil injection that you will have problems, but like many have said, it's extra insurance that makes sense to me. I notice no different odors, and very little blue smoke on cold starts, none at warm starts or WOT, using Protek-R or AMSoil 100:1.
I would like to stress that I am not saying that by choosing to stay with stock oil injection that you will have problems, but like many have said, it's extra insurance that makes sense to me. I notice no different odors, and very little blue smoke on cold starts, none at warm starts or WOT, using Protek-R or AMSoil 100:1.
#12
I'm a CF and poop smith
I premix and felt that there was a bit more low end torque, it felt peppier. I think my oil metering pump is dying or dead. My brother on the other hand tried it and he did not like it, he would some times have to crank it a couple of times before it would fire up (usually his fd will just fire right up). Since then he has stopped using it and it has gone back to normal. My car always starts right up and seems to run fine so I like it and stand by it.
#14
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Originally posted by lookingforrx-7
where can you get the premix at?
where can you get the premix at?
I use the synthetic 2-stroke oil (The racing dirt bike oil)from Mobil that I buy at AutoZone. Mobil is the cleanest burning oil that I have researched. When burned, it will leave almost no deposits at all while providing good lubrication.
This is from Mobil's site:
The motorcycle oil also has more phosphorus/zinc for enhanced wear protection at high engine speeds and high loads. Remember, most bikes don’t have catalytic converters, so higher levels of phosphorus are not a problem.
In addition, Mobil 1 MX4T uses different dispersant/detergent technology for better high-temperature performance and engine cleanliness. Mobil 1 MX4T is also offered in a different viscosity grade than Mobil 1 for passenger cars.
Promotes clean burning.
Protects against piston scuffing and exhaust-port blocking.
Delivers excellent protection at high and low engine speeds.
Reduces spark plug fouling.
#15
N-Tech Engineering recommends Pennzoil fully synthetic 2-stroke. I am, and have been using it for some time with no change in smell and no additional (if there ever was any) smoke. You can find it in a yellow container at Walmart. They sell it small bottles and a large (gallon size I think) container as well. I purchased one small and the large, and just refill the small bottle when needed, keeping it in the trunk.
Don't forget, the OMP is also injecting what will become dirty engine oil the closer you get to the 3K change interval. I know Ted from K2RD mentioned (in another post)that 2-stroke is designed to burn and leave the lubricating additives behind after combustion. He also had a link. Ted, feel free to repost. :-) If I had it my way, I'd purchase that adapter (from the airplane industry) which allows you to run the OMP off of an external resovoir and fill it with 2-stroke synthetic. This would eliminate engine oil being injected into the housings and would give you a deposit free source of lubrication.
For the time being, the combination of one of the better synthetics (I use Royal Purple) and the Pennzoil seems to work well and I have not had any problems relating to the injectors, fuel filter, etc...Some say synth alone will clog your cats. 5 years ago that may have been the case, but I don't think it applies anymore.
One other concern was brought up on the big list in that the premix might not stay mixed. You'd practically need to autocross the car to maintain suspension. I find this hard to believe and it's something I intend to test in the not too distant future. 2-stroke oils were meant to be premixed and I'm sure their suspension qualities allow it to stay "mixed" almost indefinitely with minor agitation. If anyone else has tested, please post the details!
Michel
Don't forget, the OMP is also injecting what will become dirty engine oil the closer you get to the 3K change interval. I know Ted from K2RD mentioned (in another post)that 2-stroke is designed to burn and leave the lubricating additives behind after combustion. He also had a link. Ted, feel free to repost. :-) If I had it my way, I'd purchase that adapter (from the airplane industry) which allows you to run the OMP off of an external resovoir and fill it with 2-stroke synthetic. This would eliminate engine oil being injected into the housings and would give you a deposit free source of lubrication.
For the time being, the combination of one of the better synthetics (I use Royal Purple) and the Pennzoil seems to work well and I have not had any problems relating to the injectors, fuel filter, etc...Some say synth alone will clog your cats. 5 years ago that may have been the case, but I don't think it applies anymore.
One other concern was brought up on the big list in that the premix might not stay mixed. You'd practically need to autocross the car to maintain suspension. I find this hard to believe and it's something I intend to test in the not too distant future. 2-stroke oils were meant to be premixed and I'm sure their suspension qualities allow it to stay "mixed" almost indefinitely with minor agitation. If anyone else has tested, please post the details!
Michel
#16
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Ok.. So mobil or penn racing premix 2 stroke oil
is ok to use..
So how much of the stuff do you mix???
is there a set mix equation??? for diff oils?
If you can mix stuff from nearby autoparts store
than ordering pricey stuff from Tuners.. I am all
for it..
Thanks..
is ok to use..
So how much of the stuff do you mix???
is there a set mix equation??? for diff oils?
If you can mix stuff from nearby autoparts store
than ordering pricey stuff from Tuners.. I am all
for it..
Thanks..
#17
I'm a CF and poop smith
You can use any type of 2-stroke oil but make sure it says TC-W3 on the bottle some where cuz if not, its not clean burning (well at least not as clean burning)
#19
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Wouldn't ya know. We sell
Valvoline TCW3 2 stroke oil
at my store.. Yippee.. Free is nice..
But it isn't synthetic..
SO is Valvoline TCW3 2 stroke oil any good?
anyone got any infoon it??
and how MUCH you PUT IN?? mix or what ever??
Valvoline TCW3 2 stroke oil
at my store.. Yippee.. Free is nice..
But it isn't synthetic..
SO is Valvoline TCW3 2 stroke oil any good?
anyone got any infoon it??
and how MUCH you PUT IN?? mix or what ever??
#20
I'm a CF and poop smith
When you first fill, add about 6-8oz. Then when you refill your gas, put about ~4-5oz with every 12-15 gallon refill. I'm assuming you don't drive your car dry and risk popping your engine due to fuel starvation. this will give you a 400:1 ratio
Double the amount for when you racing which will give you a 200:1 ratio
Double the amount for when you racing which will give you a 200:1 ratio
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