ask luv94rx7 what the gph is. You are not using a .9 and .6 are you?

also, I think the pump for aquamist is 80 psi

 

their website lists "100psi race pump", maybe its up to 100 but run at 80?

i got the .9 because brad recommended it, .6 because i'd rather start with not enough rather than too much. safety first, i'm a wuss. i'm not going to have a kickass hardcore system like you've worked up to.

oh hey, your latest wiring diagrams never showed up. are you just grounding the pump and solenoid then running power like:

Battery (fuse)> Switch > Press. switch > pump >solenoid
?

 

You need to find out the GPH the nozzels are. If you do that I can tell you the pct of water to fuel you have.

I ended up getting a bosche style relay with the 87 and 87A outlets.

So its like this..

Pump 87
seleniods 87A

30/51 battery
86 ignition
85 pressure switch.

I have a lighted red manual switch attached to the battery wire, an amber led attached to the ignition wire and a green led attached to the pump (all of these after the fuses).

 

for the ignition, which wire where?
i thought you had ditched the relay at one point. i wasn't going to use the ignition to help simplify things but i understand the importance.

Good stuff:
http://www.aquamist.co.uk/rescr/rescr.html

Flow on nozzles
http://www.aquamist.co.uk/rescr/fitt...e/jetsize.html

 

I did ditch the relay because I had issues where my pump sometimes worked and other times didn't. I found the problem was that I mounted the tank way higher than the pump so it couldnt prime. That being the issue I went back to the relay, but got the bosche style so I dont have to tap the pump wire to the seloid.

The ignition tap and battery tap are under the dash drivers side above the fuse box. You will see a beige plastic piece with 2 plugs, the one on the left is battery the one on the right is ignition. Just use a spade connector.

 

My guess is 4.1 gph for .6 and 5.2 gph for .9.

Ken

 

this isn't the setup anymore?



i'm not familiar with the relay but i guess it needs power from all three (bat,ign, pres switch) to power the pump and solenoid?

 

thats not my diagram, that was someone else interpretation.

The relay allows you to use a little current to run a high amp device. It also ensures that the device is powered by the battery, but the car MUST be running to activate the device, which is a good safety thing.

 

Hey Zero,

You may be able to avoid a continuous trickle of questions etc by posting an updated "state of zero's WI system" list/howto/whatever. It does seem that you've updated your system quite a bit since your last summary.

Of course, I mention this purely because of it could save you time in posting answers and corrections...not for lazy, selfish reasons of my own :-D

jds

 

Zero ... I'd be happy to provide the web hosting if you'll do the write up.

 

Thanks james, I bought an aftermarket intake sensor to work with my water injection to do some testing. I will also be taking to the track to get some before/after results.

BTW..I took my car out last saturday night and ran 14.06 psi on my car with a ping of only 5 on my power fc. Thats also with my tiny Blitz SMIC. This stuff is for real.

 

btw, my project stalled when i realized HDR didn't sell the size fittings for the aquamist hose. you need 3/32 tube fittings for this hose, and unfortunately the tube to pipe adapters are $6 a pop from mcmaster.

now i have the size and when the parts come in the project will go on, just in time for winter

 

can you fix the pics zerobanger? i want to see pics of your resevoir

 

FYI.

The pictures in this thread will no longer be available on line after Dec 6 as I am killing my America Off Line account.

 

Where the hell have you been??

I even saw a guys avatar that was missing you?????????

 

Really? WOW I was actually missed?

 

I'm about ready to setup my own dual stage WI. Zero do you have a wire diagram of the dual stage setup with both led's and the relay? I know how to run the water lines but,I can't find an electrical diagram for the dual stage on the internet.

 

In this example you see that one pressure switch will activate the circuit at 4 psi. This example works because the other pressure switch opens later (12 psi). The pressure switch that is attached to the relay *MUST* be set to open at the same or a lower boost level than the other (or the pump will activate and the selenoid will be close causing a rupture somewhere).

The 12 psi pressure swich is doing nothing but completing a ground in this example. Remember, when it hits 12 psi, the pump has been running for a while. All you need to do is open the 2nd seleniod. at 12 psi the ground will complete and the selenoid will open.

I used to have this set up. Now I have 1 pressure switch, both selenoids open at 9 psi. One goes to my IC end tank, the other goes to my elbow. Im sure your system will have them coming on at different times so this should work good for you.

EDIT: I just realized I label the seleniods wrong. the one label "Selenoid 1" is actually "Selenoid 2" and vice versa.

 

David I need one?

 

RiON!! I have not talk to you in what a year? I helped someone install one on his rx7 last week, I'd be glad to help you out. Just give me a call.

 

i lost your number!

 

Yeah im installing single turbo kit was hoping maybe u could help me out with some stuff!

 

Rion, I sent you a PM with my number. I can show you my water injection setup if you want to stop over after work sometime.

 

pm?

 

that means private message. click on "control panel" at the top of the page and then you will see "new private messages". Alternately, you can provide me with your Email address.