One possible fix for the 'click/click/start' problem: remove oem security relay
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 336
Likes: 2
From: Redmond WA
Pettit seems to have fixed things
After years of the zoom, click-zoom, click-click-zoom, click-click-...-click-zoom problem, in a context wherein it always finally started, I finally got a no-start away from home, late at night.
The mechanic found a loose connection of the wire that attaches to the starter solenoid, and claims to have it fixed. It will be interesting to see if the same old problem recurs, or whether the bad connection was a part of the resistance drop that was causing the problem.
Another tid-bit: The Pettit racing relay that some report fixes the problem is now $39, if you don't want to assemble your own relay.
cheers
The mechanic found a loose connection of the wire that attaches to the starter solenoid, and claims to have it fixed. It will be interesting to see if the same old problem recurs, or whether the bad connection was a part of the resistance drop that was causing the problem.
Another tid-bit: The Pettit racing relay that some report fixes the problem is now $39, if you don't want to assemble your own relay.
cheers
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I have the jumper relay AND starter booster, but not installed yet, tho I don't have any starting issues. Starts cranking right away, tho it may take a couple secs before engine fires up.
And to (GoodFella) what was the part number of that fastener that Ray mentioned. I will add that to my next order from him. thnx.
I have the jumper relay AND starter booster, but not installed yet, tho I don't have any starting issues. Starts cranking right away, tho it may take a couple secs before engine fires up.
And to (GoodFella) what was the part number of that fastener that Ray mentioned. I will add that to my next order from him. thnx.
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Beaverton, OR
Thank you so much for posting this! I had a main relay overnighted that I was able to cancel in time.
I have someone coming from a 4 hour drive away to buy my FD tomorrow and I was freaking out. Most of the posts on here say "low compression". I wonder how many unfortunate guys re-built/ replaced their motor or various other parts like I almost did. Thanks again for saving me the $$$$
I have someone coming from a 4 hour drive away to buy my FD tomorrow and I was freaking out. Most of the posts on here say "low compression". I wonder how many unfortunate guys re-built/ replaced their motor or various other parts like I almost did. Thanks again for saving me the $$$$
I just fixed the click click start problem on my car by using a jumper wire before the big clutch switch. I already had the security relay bypassed with a jumper wire, and I had the clutch switch locked in with a zip tie so my car would start with a remote starter and not have to push in the clutch. So apparently that clutch switch doesn't flow enough juice through it, now that switch is bypassed with a jumper wire and the starter works great now first try everytime so far today. Before I did this it was still clicking twice and usually working on the 3rd try, then after doing this it works everytime even when the battery voltage was dropping down to 11.6, it was 11.9 when i first started messing with it today.
1 of 187 ever made
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Canada
It took me ten minutes to do this procedure.
Now my car starts every-time! I followed what it said to do and it is working perfectly! I am thinking of taking this to my local dealer who has no clue so they can read this.
Now my car starts every-time! I followed what it said to do and it is working perfectly! I am thinking of taking this to my local dealer who has no clue so they can read this.
It worked for me for about 2 weeks then for some reason the problem came back. It seems like if I leave anything on after the car is off it wont work, but if I shut the radio and turn the fans off before I shut the car down it will work just fine.
I might try to get a relay this weekend and wire up a starter booster too, because I am damn sick and tired of the click click start. I am always paranoid that one of these times I'm gonna get stranded somewhere cause my car won't start!
What gauge wire have you guys used when wiring up the relays?
What gauge wire have you guys used when wiring up the relays?
no click
I think almost every post on here people experience the click click...start. One other person described the no click no click then start. I've had to jump it a few times, other times it just starts, others it does'nt. Did the Pettit relay with no help. I have a Miata battery relocated to the inside.
I guess I will also try to jump this relay when I get it back. Currently about to go single.
I also did the cluth switch fix. What a pain.
I guess I will also try to jump this relay when I get it back. Currently about to go single.
I also did the cluth switch fix. What a pain.
Glad this got bumped up. Here's the part numbers and such I used for my starter booster realy.
These were ordered from Allied Electronics -
Relay - G8JN-1C6T-F-DC12 about $7
Socket - BR05-SR PW5-1 about $8
The relay is a high quality Omron relay, and the socket is also very high quality. The socket already has the wires connected and terminated.
The bottom of the relay has a "skirt" that the socket fits up into. There's a rubber seal in there. Also, where the wires enter the socket are all sealed with rubber seals. No way that moisture and water will get in there and corrode the relay or terminals.
I mounted the relay to the driver's side frame rail. You can use the instructions for the Pettit starter booster as a guide to which wire goes where. I used high quality connectors everywhere, I think they were all gold plated, I got them from the parts store.
There is a middle wire in the socket that isn't used, I cut that wire off close to the socket and dabbed a little RTV in there. It's still weather tight with the cut wire, but that's how I roll
.
When you install it, make sure there's enough slack on the wires for the engine to move if you mount it to the frame of the car. If it's too tight, the engine torquing can yank on the wires and break them over time.
My intention was to do this ONCE, not have some cheapie Ebay relay that would last a year before the contacts corroded. The price on the weathertight relay is very reasonable and it's easy to assemble and get going. This has totally solved my click-click-start problem.
I still think running a smaller than stock battery can contribute to the problem. Everything else on my car is as good as possible for a healthy electrical system.
Dale
These were ordered from Allied Electronics -
Relay - G8JN-1C6T-F-DC12 about $7
Socket - BR05-SR PW5-1 about $8
The relay is a high quality Omron relay, and the socket is also very high quality. The socket already has the wires connected and terminated.
The bottom of the relay has a "skirt" that the socket fits up into. There's a rubber seal in there. Also, where the wires enter the socket are all sealed with rubber seals. No way that moisture and water will get in there and corrode the relay or terminals.
I mounted the relay to the driver's side frame rail. You can use the instructions for the Pettit starter booster as a guide to which wire goes where. I used high quality connectors everywhere, I think they were all gold plated, I got them from the parts store.
There is a middle wire in the socket that isn't used, I cut that wire off close to the socket and dabbed a little RTV in there. It's still weather tight with the cut wire, but that's how I roll
.When you install it, make sure there's enough slack on the wires for the engine to move if you mount it to the frame of the car. If it's too tight, the engine torquing can yank on the wires and break them over time.
My intention was to do this ONCE, not have some cheapie Ebay relay that would last a year before the contacts corroded. The price on the weathertight relay is very reasonable and it's easy to assemble and get going. This has totally solved my click-click-start problem.
I still think running a smaller than stock battery can contribute to the problem. Everything else on my car is as good as possible for a healthy electrical system.
Dale
The alarm relay by-pass did not work for me.
Thanks guys.
Ordered these parts last week and built/installed the booster over the weekend. They didnt have the socket with pigtails so I got the regular WP socket and wired it up myself. I made the wires long enough so that the relay mounts in the engine bay. So far as of today I got no embarrassing clicks thank god.
The alarm relay by-pass did not work for me.
Thanks guys.
The alarm relay by-pass did not work for me.
Thanks guys.
