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One possible fix for the 'click/click/start' problem: remove oem security relay

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Old Mar 6, 2020 | 08:42 AM
  #251  
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Originally Posted by DaleClark
this problem is pretty cut and dried at this point.
In a nutshell: Starter solenoid (bad/grounded), H302 Security Interlock, or Clutch Switch Interlock

Missing anything?
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Old Mar 6, 2020 | 05:10 PM
  #252  
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^aging/bad CPU2

Last edited by Topolino; Mar 7, 2020 at 07:42 PM.
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Old Jun 13, 2020 | 11:51 PM
  #253  
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From: QLD, Australia
RHD location

Can someone tell me where the H302 relay is on a JDM/RHD car. I have looked in both kick panels and can't find it.
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Old Sep 14, 2020 | 04:34 PM
  #254  
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My 2 cents: After 48K miles I started to get the no start issue. No click, nothing. Replaced the relay, no go. Would come and go so I just shorted out the security relay contacts with a jumper. Went away and ended up getting the Banzai shorting connector just to clean it up. I wanted to keep the alarm so I opted for the Banzai starter mounted relay then removed the shorting connector. Well made product, but it only worked once, then a no go again. Obviously not the issue for ME.

Back to the drawing board checking the schematic the security relay must be de-energized to complete the start path. Checking with a meter the coil was always getting power when I was trying to start the car.. The issue being as mentioned before for ME is the CPU2 needs to open the ground to de-energize the relay. I dont have any other issues with the CPU2 so I'm not going to try and fix or replace it. Will end up just either keeping the shorting connector or making up some other kill switch setup to the relay.

If anyone has the issue with the low voltage problem, I will eventually have the Banzai relay to pass on once I get back under the car.
ill post it under 3 gen parts for sale shortly.

Cheers....
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Old Sep 14, 2020 | 04:53 PM
  #255  
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I was thinking of adding a switch to the security relay bypass so it can be manually activated.
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Old Sep 14, 2020 | 07:56 PM
  #256  
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Yeah sounds like a CPU2 problem, it's not properly disarming the relay. To be honest, I really don't think that's going to keep someone from stealing the car - old school security systems aren't that functional. Considering the car doesn't use a chip key, you could hot wire or use a screwdriver to turn the key to On then push start it.

In other words I wouldn't lose sleep over bypassing that security relay.

Dale
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Old May 3, 2021 | 08:09 PM
  #257  
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Originally Posted by adam c
I was having a similar problem with my car. Turn the key, nothing. Turn the key, nothing. Turn the key, and it starts right up. I tried holding the key in the start position, and pumping the clutch pedal. After a couple of pumps, it would start. This told me the clutch switch was not always making a good connection.

So, I pulled it out, and took it apart

Its the harder to get to switch that pushes in when you press the pedal down. Use two very small flat head screwdrivers to pry the tabs on one side of the switch. The top will pop right off. I found that the metal "slider" that slides up and contacts the two metal strips was dirty, and that the spring under the slider (not the big spring) was stuck. I cleaned it up, put it back in, and now the car starts like a champ every time.

If you have the same problem as me. Try holding the key in the start position, and pumping the clutch. Your fix could be really simple
The starter clutch switch is also often a problem for starting issues, and is now NLA. But as Adam C mentioned years ago, it can be easily taken apart, cleaned, and re-assembled. Also, just a reminder when debugging that there are TWO clutch switches, only one of which has anything to do with the starter. In the attached parts diagram​​​​​, the starter clutch switch is 66-4D0, and the other one (used by cruise control?) is 18-660B. I'm embarrassed to say this had me confused for a while (gee, I wonder why this switch has such small gauge wires going to it... oh. Duh.).




Last edited by primerGrey; May 3, 2021 at 08:10 PM. Reason: typo
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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 02:53 PM
  #258  
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Wanted to add my thanks for the great info on this forum and specifically in this thread.

My car had been starting fine for the past 28 or so years, until about 2 weeks ago. Went out in the morning to run a few errands, car started fine. Came out of a store and turned the key - click, click, nothing. After trying it a number of times, decided it was probably the starter, particularly because I thought I heard a few grinding-type noises when starting the car the prior weeks. Was able to rock the car a bit several times and it started and got her home.

Ordered a reman starter and put it in, no dice.

So I came to the forum and first came across the ignition switch threads. Yesterday installed a new switch, still nothing. Then I found this thread and read about the security relay bypass and also the need for sufficient juice to the starter. Since my battery was pretty old I figured it wise to replace it and eliminate that from the equation. Still the same click-click- no start. Finally, performed the security relay bypass and boom - started right up! Halleluiah!

So I now have a new starter, ignition switch and battery that I may not have needed, but it's all good. At 136K miles I'm happy to have these refreshed, they were good to me for 28 years.

Thanks again to all of you for making this forum so great.
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Old Jul 24, 2021 | 05:23 AM
  #259  
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From: Boynton Beach, Florida
I have the Petite Racing Starter Booster

It works like a charm. I am delighted to support Cam in paying his asking price. The man has developed so many amazing products and mods over the decades for our community...it’s the least I could do! I want him to keep going...

Best,
Van
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