One possible fix for the 'click/click/start' problem: remove oem security relay
03-15-10, 09:33 PM
#53
03-15-10, 10:33 PM
#54
Original Gangster/Rotary!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (213)
Goomba, I would say 'no' unless you start having a problem again.
btw, I've put some in some seat time and my FD starts up on the first try every time now. Glad it's working out for some of you
btw, I've put some in some seat time and my FD starts up on the first try every time now. Glad it's working out for some of you
04-24-10, 01:53 PM
#55
Anyone have any idea where this relay is located on the JDM cars? I searched behind both kick panels and can't find it.
I have a click, click, click, click, click, click, click, click, click, click, click, click, click, click, click, click, click, click, start problem and I'm getting super annoyed
I have a click, click, click, click, click, click, click, click, click, click, click, click, click, click, click, click, click, click, start problem and I'm getting super annoyed
04-26-10, 06:52 PM
#57
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Update on my problems...
OK, so for quite some time my car has had the click-click-start problem. I've thrown a good deal of money at the problem - new ignition switch, new starter interrupt relay, and also rebuilt the starting/charging harness by combining 3 harnesses (mine, a used US harness, and a low miles JDM harness that was the core). So, I had a top-notch electrical system, healthy battery and alternator, STILL had the problem.
Bypassed both the clutch switch and the starter interrupt, it was better, but still did it.
Finally said screw it and built a starter booster relay. I used top-quality components with a weathertight relay and harness, gold plated connectors, etc. I didn't want some bobo relay to leave me on the side of the road. Since then, car has started perfect every single time.
My problem also could be using a smaller than stock battery. I have a Miata battery in my car and it might not have enough juice to do the job. I'm not sure if the problem started before or after I changed battery sizes. But, it's all moot with the starter booster.
At some point I'll post up where to get the parts for the weathertight components, they're not too expensive and it's really the right way to do it.
Dale
OK, so for quite some time my car has had the click-click-start problem. I've thrown a good deal of money at the problem - new ignition switch, new starter interrupt relay, and also rebuilt the starting/charging harness by combining 3 harnesses (mine, a used US harness, and a low miles JDM harness that was the core). So, I had a top-notch electrical system, healthy battery and alternator, STILL had the problem.
Bypassed both the clutch switch and the starter interrupt, it was better, but still did it.
Finally said screw it and built a starter booster relay. I used top-quality components with a weathertight relay and harness, gold plated connectors, etc. I didn't want some bobo relay to leave me on the side of the road
. Since then, car has started perfect every single time.My problem also could be using a smaller than stock battery. I have a Miata battery in my car and it might not have enough juice to do the job. I'm not sure if the problem started before or after I changed battery sizes. But, it's all moot with the starter booster
.At some point I'll post up where to get the parts for the weathertight components, they're not too expensive and it's really the right way to do it.
Dale
04-26-10, 07:57 PM
#58
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Just did the jumper solution and it worked great on my FD, no more embarrassing click click problem. Thanks!!! Someone should consider making a batch of the starter booster relay and do a group buy on them, cheaper than Pettit's of course. I'm sure there's alot of lazy FD owner like myself, that would like to buy a pre-made relay rather than made it ourself.
05-18-10, 08:17 PM
#60
Senior Member
event log - star date rx7-x
After years of the zoom, click-zoom, click-click-zoom, click-click-...-click-zoom problem, in a context wherein it always finally started, I finally got a no-start away from home, late at night.
The mechanic found a loose connection of the wire that attaches to the starter solenoid, and claims to have it fixed. It will be interesting to see if the same old problem recurs, or whether the bad connection was a part of the resistance drop that was causing the problem.
Another tid-bit: The Pettit racing relay that some report fixes the problem is now $39, if you don't want to assemble your own relay.
cheers
The mechanic found a loose connection of the wire that attaches to the starter solenoid, and claims to have it fixed. It will be interesting to see if the same old problem recurs, or whether the bad connection was a part of the resistance drop that was causing the problem.
Another tid-bit: The Pettit racing relay that some report fixes the problem is now $39, if you don't want to assemble your own relay.
cheers
06-26-10, 08:50 PM
#65
Idel
Found this but it doesnt say anything about being weathertight?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tchlink:top:en
06-26-10, 09:24 PM
#66
By click click is everyone on here referring to the starter solenoid clicking before starting? or not starting?
When i try to crank my PIECE of, I just get dash & gauge lights, i can hear the fuel pump, but she wont crank. I bought a new Braille B2015 battery, starter, & had the alternator checked, then I tried bypassing the starter & clutch relays still no joy.
Any ideas
Idel
When i try to crank my PIECE of, I just get dash & gauge lights, i can hear the fuel pump, but she wont crank. I bought a new Braille B2015 battery, starter, & had the alternator checked, then I tried bypassing the starter & clutch relays still no joy.
Any ideas
Idel
06-27-10, 11:05 AM
#67
Ok, so I got it figured out. On the clutch pedal assembly there is a rubber like plug that is used to push the neutral switch when the clutch pedal is depressed. Well the rubber plug fell out so I replaced it with a nut & bolt! Problem solved!
For now! Lol
For now! Lol
06-27-10, 11:13 AM
#68
Exactly what I had to do (nut and bolt and then switched to a large zip tie), that's aside from the other bypasses I have done. I also added an engine bay switch for making mechanical tests easier and not requiring a helper to crank the car. That's one of the best mods I ever did for diagnostics.
06-27-10, 11:16 AM
#69
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Glad this got bumped up. Here's the part numbers and such I used for my starter booster realy.
These were ordered from Allied Electronics -
Relay - G8JN-1C6T-F-DC12 about $7
Socket - BR05-SR PW5-1 about $8
The relay is a high quality Omron relay, and the socket is also very high quality. The socket already has the wires connected and terminated.
The bottom of the relay has a "skirt" that the socket fits up into. There's a rubber seal in there. Also, where the wires enter the socket are all sealed with rubber seals. No way that moisture and water will get in there and corrode the relay or terminals.
I mounted the relay to the driver's side frame rail. You can use the instructions for the Pettit starter booster as a guide to which wire goes where. I used high quality connectors everywhere, I think they were all gold plated, I got them from the parts store.
There is a middle wire in the socket that isn't used, I cut that wire off close to the socket and dabbed a little RTV in there. It's still weather tight with the cut wire, but that's how I roll.
When you install it, make sure there's enough slack on the wires for the engine to move if you mount it to the frame of the car. If it's too tight, the engine torquing can yank on the wires and break them over time.
My intention was to do this ONCE, not have some cheapie Ebay relay that would last a year before the contacts corroded. The price on the weathertight relay is very reasonable and it's easy to assemble and get going. This has totally solved my click-click-start problem.
I still think running a smaller than stock battery can contribute to the problem. Everything else on my car is as good as possible for a healthy electrical system.
Dale
These were ordered from Allied Electronics -
Relay - G8JN-1C6T-F-DC12 about $7
Socket - BR05-SR PW5-1 about $8
The relay is a high quality Omron relay, and the socket is also very high quality. The socket already has the wires connected and terminated.
The bottom of the relay has a "skirt" that the socket fits up into. There's a rubber seal in there. Also, where the wires enter the socket are all sealed with rubber seals. No way that moisture and water will get in there and corrode the relay or terminals.
I mounted the relay to the driver's side frame rail. You can use the instructions for the Pettit starter booster as a guide to which wire goes where. I used high quality connectors everywhere, I think they were all gold plated, I got them from the parts store.
There is a middle wire in the socket that isn't used, I cut that wire off close to the socket and dabbed a little RTV in there. It's still weather tight with the cut wire, but that's how I roll
.When you install it, make sure there's enough slack on the wires for the engine to move if you mount it to the frame of the car. If it's too tight, the engine torquing can yank on the wires and break them over time.
My intention was to do this ONCE, not have some cheapie Ebay relay that would last a year before the contacts corroded. The price on the weathertight relay is very reasonable and it's easy to assemble and get going. This has totally solved my click-click-start problem.
I still think running a smaller than stock battery can contribute to the problem. Everything else on my car is as good as possible for a healthy electrical system.
Dale
07-27-10, 11:50 PM
#70
will try the jumper tomorrow, car left me stranded tonight 
had a click-no-start a few times but so far in between that I didn't pay attention to it, well tonight it decided to not go anymore.
only weird thing was that the alarm got triggered when I opened the hatch with the key, never did this before so I guess my alarm is going bad. then it started just fine a few times but at last I got a turn key-nothing, turn key-nothing.
checked commander and CLT is working but STR is not, does it mean the starter is not getting current? I had to push start the thing to get home D:<
had a click-no-start a few times but so far in between that I didn't pay attention to it, well tonight it decided to not go anymore.
only weird thing was that the alarm got triggered when I opened the hatch with the key, never did this before so I guess my alarm is going bad. then it started just fine a few times but at last I got a turn key-nothing, turn key-nothing.
checked commander and CLT is working but STR is not, does it mean the starter is not getting current? I had to push start the thing to get home D:<
07-28-10, 10:46 AM
#73
Original Gangster/Rotary!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (213)
07-28-10, 11:14 AM
#74
Just a thing to throw out there:
I started to have this same issue a couple of months ago. Just like most at first I thought it was either an ignition or starter problem. I was about to do this mod when I decided to check my battery voltage and it read 11.6V. Obviously it was a little low so I recharged my battery. Now it's been a few weeks and no issues yet. Seems like I had enough voltage to crank the car but it was low enough for this click start issue to surface.
I will note that my battery is on it's way out and is not charging like it used to.
I started to have this same issue a couple of months ago. Just like most at first I thought it was either an ignition or starter problem. I was about to do this mod when I decided to check my battery voltage and it read 11.6V. Obviously it was a little low so I recharged my battery. Now it's been a few weeks and no issues yet. Seems like I had enough voltage to crank the car but it was low enough for this click start issue to surface.
I will note that my battery is on it's way out and is not charging like it used to.
