One possible fix for the 'click/click/start' problem: remove oem security relay
01-20-12, 05:48 PM
#128
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I did like goodfellas suggested in the first post about 2 months ago and I replaced the ignition switch but quite often still get the 3 click start
my battery is relocated to the trunk
front box is welded and rear is grinded
should I go ahead and try the pettit starter booster?
I heard people had good results with that
my battery is relocated to the trunk
front box is welded and rear is grinded
should I go ahead and try the pettit starter booster?
I heard people had good results with that
01-20-12, 05:58 PM
#129
You could just run a new wire to the starter like I did, see my recent posts on this topic at the top of page 5. It works great everytime even when battery voltage is low with a small battery, and easier than doing a relay/booster. It hasn't clicked once since doing this, and my battery is like always low.
03-10-12, 12:19 PM
#130
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Just to add a bit of info since I just dealt with this. If bypassing the alarm relay with your jumper harness doesn't work plug the relay back in. Next disconnect your clutch interlock switch and move the male/male jumper harness you made into it and try to start again to see if that is bad. If this doesn't work then you've probably got a bad ignition switch.
03-28-12, 10:20 PM
#132
You could just run a new wire to the starter like I did, see my recent posts on this topic at the top of page 5. It works great everytime even when battery voltage is low with a small battery, and easier than doing a relay/booster. It hasn't clicked once since doing this, and my battery is like always low.
05-16-12, 06:54 PM
#134
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My son's car had the clicking problem and some times wouldn't start at all. Also the battery voltage seemed low too. So I wasn't sure what was going on. Since the booster relay deal is cheap I ordered the relay from Amazon for $8 and installed it. The car has started on the first crank every time over the last two weeks. I guess the battery voltage isn't and issue.
05-18-12, 11:54 AM
#136
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I used larger gauge wire I think 14 guage maybe 12. The relay I ordered came with a socket and leads, I was able to use two of the leads. The extra wire I had to attach, I soldered all connection and the lugs I attached to the wires were also soldered.
Absolute RLS125 12-VCD Automotive Relay SPDT 30/40A
12 VDC 5-PIN RELAY SOCKET
Absolute RLS125 12-VCD Automotive Relay SPDT 30/40A
12 VDC 5-PIN RELAY SOCKET
05-28-12, 07:22 AM
#137
I'm in the process of rewiring my car. I'm deleting the security relay and instead of jumping the two big wires together, I just cut them back in the harness and butt connected them together (shortening the wires a lot).
The two small wires, which I assume activate the relate, I just butt connected together as well. But I just wanted to see if anyone can confirm this, to make sure its ok to connect them together.
When the alarm system is not on, they are basically joined together through the relay.
When the alarm system is activated, one of them does not get power, which disables the relay, making the two big wires loose unable to connect.
Is this correct?
The two small wires, which I assume activate the relate, I just butt connected together as well. But I just wanted to see if anyone can confirm this, to make sure its ok to connect them together.
When the alarm system is not on, they are basically joined together through the relay.
When the alarm system is activated, one of them does not get power, which disables the relay, making the two big wires loose unable to connect.
Is this correct?
05-29-12, 01:25 PM
#140
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The clutch switch also goes bad over the years.
I removed the clutch starter switch and the security relay a few years ago to fix the 3 try start. But last year my starter/ignition switch when bad. Had to replace it.
All is well again. Since I grew up with manual trans cars, I alway check to be sure the car is in neutral and do not depress the clutch.
Another thing to do; disassemble your starter, clean it out, relube the bearing, and reassemble it.
I removed the clutch starter switch and the security relay a few years ago to fix the 3 try start. But last year my starter/ignition switch when bad. Had to replace it.
All is well again. Since I grew up with manual trans cars, I alway check to be sure the car is in neutral and do not depress the clutch.
Another thing to do; disassemble your starter, clean it out, relube the bearing, and reassemble it.
07-21-12, 12:39 AM
#143
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Mine would most often go click, click,click,click...click........click....clicrank but turn the key off before you realize it was going to crank. Click, click, click, crank and start, but stall..... Crank and it's flooded...... wait a few minutes waving at people at Starbucks that have cars that are boring but you know........ work and stuff... Then begin the process again.
07-25-12, 01:12 PM
#144
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Just did the relay jumper and no deals. Still doesn't do anything. I am getting a buzzing sound from the same area as the relay however that is strange. Is there anything down there that would buzz for some reason? There is also an aftermarket alarm brain under the kick panel that was not installed by me and I have no instructions for of course. I'm going to have to follow the wires from that and see where they go too I suppose.
07-25-12, 03:57 PM
#145
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After looking at this Starter Interlock wiring -why is the wire that goes to the ecu so big? - RX7Club.com , I decided to simply run a 10 gauge wire from the big black/blue wire at the security starter cut relay plug straight to the starter. So far it works great. This was fairly simple to do, and easier than wiring up that relay starter booster. I figure this way helps compared to stock because it gets rid of alot of connections the power had to transfer through and old longer wiring to get to the starter. I wanted to see if doing this simple wire mod would make the starter work every time, and since it is easier that wiring up a starter booster relay.
Just some 10 gauge wire and 2 wire connectors and wire loom I already had. I already had a hole in the firewall with a rubber grommet for other wires so I easily ran the wire through there. I can easily switch back to how it was before if needed, I didn't cut into any of the stock wiring. See picture, I also wrapped some duct tape around it so it doesn't come loose.
Just some 10 gauge wire and 2 wire connectors and wire loom I already had. I already had a hole in the firewall with a rubber grommet for other wires so I easily ran the wire through there. I can easily switch back to how it was before if needed, I didn't cut into any of the stock wiring. See picture, I also wrapped some duct tape around it so it doesn't come loose.
10-03-12, 11:41 AM
#146
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Worked for me
I know this an old thread but figured I'd chime in to say I had a click, click, NO start problem and decided to try the jumper before I went through testing out all the circuits involved. It worked for me, took 5 minutes to fix and it stared right up. Guess the security relay is bad or stuck but as my car is always parked in my garage with a cover on it I'm not concerned about the security system working.
01-19-13, 03:10 PM
#148
Unmatched Power and Fury
This thread should be Bumped. This is awesome. I went to a smaller battery and my click click issue has gone to click click click click click start. I even wonder if this is related to my other thread, which is attempting to diagnose my alarm going off (first time in 14 years) when I try open my car.
01-27-13, 09:00 PM
#149
I've been fighting the click,click, click---click, click, click until I finally got fed up with my car not starting after 20+ clicks...well I finally got around to doing the starter booster mod...Worked like a charm...I had already tried jumping the security relay and bypassing the clutch...I even took the clutch switch apart to clean it...None of those worked...Put the relay in---voila, it started first try!!
02-15-13, 07:02 PM
#150
I was having a similar problem with my car. Turn the key, nothing. Turn the key, nothing. Turn the key, and it starts right up. I tried holding the key in the start position, and pumping the clutch pedal. After a couple of pumps, it would start. This told me the clutch switch was not always making a good connection.
So, I pulled it out, and took it apart
Its the harder to get to switch that pushes in when you press the pedal down. Use two very small flat head screwdrivers to pry the tabs on one side of the switch. The top will pop right off. I found that the metal "slider" that slides up and contacts the two metal strips was dirty, and that the spring under the slider (not the big spring) was stuck. I cleaned it up, put it back in, and now the car starts like a champ every time.
If you have the same problem as me. Try holding the key in the start position, and pumping the clutch. Your fix could be really simple
So, I pulled it out, and took it apart
Its the harder to get to switch that pushes in when you press the pedal down. Use two very small flat head screwdrivers to pry the tabs on one side of the switch. The top will pop right off. I found that the metal "slider" that slides up and contacts the two metal strips was dirty, and that the spring under the slider (not the big spring) was stuck. I cleaned it up, put it back in, and now the car starts like a champ every time.
If you have the same problem as me. Try holding the key in the start position, and pumping the clutch. Your fix could be really simple